With mech mods one needs to have ohms law and battery safety flowing out of their ears and nose. But nowadays so many people have regulated mods. The regulated mod makes up for a lot of the necessary knowledge for owning a mech because of all its safety features. Does that mean that for a regulated mod one needs to have just a basic all around knowledge of ohms law and battery safety or the same full knowledge like those who own a mech? Is a full and complete knowledge of ohms law & battery safety absolutely necessary for regulated mods? I'm not saying it's not necessary, just wondering to what extent.
Is a full & complete knowledge of ohms law & battery safety absolutely necessary for regulated mods
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You don't have to have a "full" knowledge of ohms law but it wouldn't be a bad thing to know at least a little bit of ohms law. The chips on regulated mods do all the calculations for you so it's just a "plug-n-play" kind of thing. If you decide to go to unregulated or mech mods in the future you will def need to know ohms law and battery amps and voltages to stay safe. I am posting a pic of a paper that i wrote out and saved to my phone that is an easy to figure ohms law. You just have to know max amps your batteries are able to pushed to and stay under the threshold to stay safe. It's not as complicated as some make it out to be. Hope this helps.
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For "plug and play" without reading anything a pod mod like Juul will do the job. For a regulated mod user with replaceable batteries, knowledge of battery care and assuring the battery will meet your needs is, IMO, a must.
However, the whole thing isn't all that hard. Users should know better than to stick a loose battery in their pocket with their keys, that authentic batteries from responsible manufacturers and vendors are their best choice, and at least a basic understanding that pushing batteries too hard can shorten battery life cycle, and theoretically could be a safety risk.
Edit: like @Wheelin247 just posted.
However, the whole thing isn't all that hard. Users should know better than to stick a loose battery in their pocket with their keys, that authentic batteries from responsible manufacturers and vendors are their best choice, and at least a basic understanding that pushing batteries too hard can shorten battery life cycle, and theoretically could be a safety risk.
Edit: like @Wheelin247 just posted.
I totally agree @Eskie. A user of replacement battery mods like the Smok devices, people should have an understanding about the batteries they are using. A little knowledge with anything never hurts.
I'm never surprised at when I hear about someone carrying batteries not in a battery case in pockets with keys and loose change. You can't fix stupid as they say.
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Ignorance comes into the picture too. The batteries I was familiar with before I started vaping were a lot more forgiving. With those square batteries that have both terminals on the same end you can put your tongue on the terminals to see if they are charged. On the regular round ones I can remember using my keys to complete a circuit so I could use the tongue technique.
I would have known not to do that with a car battery but I'm not sure whether I would have realized it wasn't a good idea with vaping batteries. Fortunately by the time I started using them I had already read all about it here so I never got to fry my tongue or set my trousers on fire.
"Is a full & complete knowledge of ohms law & battery safety absolutely necessary for regulated mods"
Yes. My answer, based solely on my personal opinion. Others mileage will vary wildly of course
Yes. My answer, based solely on my personal opinion. Others mileage will vary wildly of course
"Ohm's law," which describes the relationship between voltage, current, and resistance, doesn't really apply to battery safety in wattage-regulated devices, since the resistance (ohms) doesn't factor in to the amp draw in such a device. What you should be familiar with, instead, is the power (watts) equation, sometimes called "Watt's law" even though it's not officially called that (the watt is named after a real person, James Watt, in recognition of his contributions to the development of the steam engine, however it was not until 63 years after Watt's death in 1819 that it was recognized as a unit of measure by Second Congress of the British Association for the Advancement of Science in 1882, then in 1960 the 11th General Conference on Weights and Measures adopted it into the International System of Units ["SI" / Système international] as the official unit of power.)
A regulated device is not "magical." It doesn't know what battery you've put in it. You still need to know the amp limitations of your battery, and take steps not to exceed that limit. It's just that the amp draw is determined by the watts setting, instead of the resistance of the attached atomizer, as in a mechanical or unregulated device.
The power equation describes the relationship between voltage, current, and power (wattage), which is what you need to know for proper battery safety in a wattage-regulated device. The power equation is:
Watts = Volts x Amps
...or, rearranged to be more meaningful to us battery users:
Amps = Watts / Volts
NOTE: The "volts" here refers to the charge state of your battery, not the "output voltage" applied to your atomizer, often displayed on a device's display screen which is, essentially, useless information in regards to battery safety.
If you already knew all that before I told you, then you already have "a full & complete knowledge of ohms law & battery safety" as it pertains to regulated devices. If you didn't, well now you do.
A regulated device is not "magical." It doesn't know what battery you've put in it. You still need to know the amp limitations of your battery, and take steps not to exceed that limit. It's just that the amp draw is determined by the watts setting, instead of the resistance of the attached atomizer, as in a mechanical or unregulated device.
The power equation describes the relationship between voltage, current, and power (wattage), which is what you need to know for proper battery safety in a wattage-regulated device. The power equation is:
Watts = Volts x Amps
...or, rearranged to be more meaningful to us battery users:
Amps = Watts / Volts
NOTE: The "volts" here refers to the charge state of your battery, not the "output voltage" applied to your atomizer, often displayed on a device's display screen which is, essentially, useless information in regards to battery safety.
If you already knew all that before I told you, then you already have "a full & complete knowledge of ohms law & battery safety" as it pertains to regulated devices. If you didn't, well now you do.
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Now, if I can just remember how to do long division. Or find a calculator on my phone.
I did learn ohms law back in the 60's and forgot it soon afterwards. Learned it again recently.
Having Basic battery safety & selection knowledge is a good idea when using regulated power devices.
But that doesn't tell the whole story, just before & at the low voltage cutoff amp demand from the cells will be highest, knowing your specific regulated power devices battery low voltage cutoff would be equally as important. As would knowing your specific power devices efficiency / inefficiency, if you don't know yours add 10%.
2.8v / 60w = 21.4a ~ 23.54a
3v / 60w = 20a ~ 22a
3.2v / 60w = 18.7a ~ 20.57a
3..4v / 60w = 17.6a ~ 19.36a
Tall order from any 20a CDR cell if battery life span is a concern of yours.
If you don't know low voltage cutoff or inefficiency,,, use 3.2v & 10% and hope it is close enough.
But that doesn't tell the whole story, just before & at the low voltage cutoff amp demand from the cells will be highest, knowing your specific regulated power devices battery low voltage cutoff would be equally as important. As would knowing your specific power devices efficiency / inefficiency, if you don't know yours add 10%.
2.8v / 60w = 21.4a ~ 23.54a
3v / 60w = 20a ~ 22a
3.2v / 60w = 18.7a ~ 20.57a
3..4v / 60w = 17.6a ~ 19.36a
Tall order from any 20a CDR cell if battery life span is a concern of yours.
If you don't know low voltage cutoff or inefficiency,,, use 3.2v & 10% and hope it is close enough.
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Not to discount the idea of caution in general, but a nitpick, if you'll allow me. Something I've picked up recently. Running a 20A CDR battery at 20A is not "bad" for the battery lifespan. CDR is not a measure of safety, or of a battery's maximum capability, but of how hard you can run the battery every single time from full charge all the way down to 2.5v low charge, without significantly harming the battery (defined as a loss of mAh or increase of internal resistance, beyond certain defined parameters, after something like 500 full discharge-charge cycles.) You can actually run batteries at higher amperage (I believe @Mooch went even so far as to say "much higher" -- see "MVA - Max Vaping Amps" in his battery charts) without safety concerns, but that is when the battery lifespan starts to become an issue.
All you need to be able to do is use one of the many and basic calculators out there to work out ohms etc. If you can't do that then you have no place vaping anything imo.
Ohms law not so much, battery knowledge arguably yes.
Ignorance may not get you injured, but it may result in a poor vaping experience and buying a lot of prematurely ruined cells.
Also the inbuilt mod safety features only work when the batteries are in the device. They are far more dangerous things you can do with an 18650 when it's not.
Not to mention a mods safety features won't do squat if for instance you put two cells with torn wrappers in a mod where they can touch.
Ignorance may not get you injured, but it may result in a poor vaping experience and buying a lot of prematurely ruined cells.
Also the inbuilt mod safety features only work when the batteries are in the device. They are far more dangerous things you can do with an 18650 when it's not.
Not to mention a mods safety features won't do squat if for instance you put two cells with torn wrappers in a mod where they can touch.
A rule of thumb I've always given is that the amps needed from a battery in a single cell mod is roughly equal to the wattage requested divided by three. W / 3 = A.
For a two-cell device, it's W / 2 / 3 = A.
It's a rough order of magnitude calc you can do on the fly, just to get you in the ballpark. If you know the battery's discharge rate and the calc gets you too close for comfort, you need to dig deeper.
Plus, it's always important to remember that most of our regulated devices have safety features that were spec'ed and manufactured in a country not renowned for high quality control standards.
For a two-cell device, it's W / 2 / 3 = A.
It's a rough order of magnitude calc you can do on the fly, just to get you in the ballpark. If you know the battery's discharge rate and the calc gets you too close for comfort, you need to dig deeper.
Plus, it's always important to remember that most of our regulated devices have safety features that were spec'ed and manufactured in a country not renowned for high quality control standards.
I just want to say I have a fundamental understanding of ohms law, but I use only regulated because I'm just not smart enough to not blow myself up.
Make no mistake, I would blow myself up.
Make no mistake, I would blow myself up.
Here is another way you can think about it that I find easier to explain to people who get that glazed look when I talk about Ohm's law.
For a VW mod (only), a single battery will draw about 20 amps max when it is making around 50 watts. If you have two batts in the mod, each will draw about 20 amps at 100 watts from the mod.
In the same scenario each battery will draw around 30 watts max when making around 75 watts. So a dual battery mod can do around 150 watts with 30 amp batteries and a triple battery mod 225 watts.
Now you can go to Mooch's battery chart and look for an appropriate battery by amp draw. It doesn't get much simpler than this I think
This of course does not work for VV and mech mods.
For a VW mod (only), a single battery will draw about 20 amps max when it is making around 50 watts. If you have two batts in the mod, each will draw about 20 amps at 100 watts from the mod.
In the same scenario each battery will draw around 30 watts max when making around 75 watts. So a dual battery mod can do around 150 watts with 30 amp batteries and a triple battery mod 225 watts.
Now you can go to Mooch's battery chart and look for an appropriate battery by amp draw. It doesn't get much simpler than this I think
This of course does not work for VV and mech mods.
If I were using an unregulated device and doing the calculations was more relevant to the way I was vaping I would research it and know it inside and out. Vaping a regulated device at a high resistance and very low wattage doesn't give me much reason to break out and work the formula. I am hyper vigilant about choosing authentic batteries from trusted vendors and practicing proper care and handling of the cells themselves, which, in my case, is more relevant to my safety.
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