Is anybody willing to actually help me? Please

[Thompson]

Your measuring right, and 2.2 would be a decent Ohm

I find that if I'm getting harsh hits its usually a hot spot. I like to pulse fire and this will usually reveal the perp. Then it all depends on minor adjustments.

Two things I don't think I saw mentioned so far:

Make sure to fold over the outer wrap of the mesh. This cut can have very small SS wires sticking out that'll cause shorts.

Once you've got that folded, make sure that this fold does not come in contact with the top coil.

This helps when I'm getting odd results. Just fixed an issue I had a moment ago.

And, just for the hell of it, make sure that air hole is directly aligned. If I'm off a few degrees the TH goes nuts.

 

[scrappy]

Thanks guys I was ready to give up hope. The coils aren't glowing, so it's getting juice. I redid a new wick, this time using the cool water, heat with torch x 5 and redid the coil again. Now the taste is better, immense throat hit, but not a lot of vapor. Chripes, this thing is a bear to get right. I have 4 wraps. So you think I should go higher? If I'm doing the ohms right, I put the + lead on the + post and the - on the screw where the other coil wire is right? I'm getting about 2.2 if I'm doing it right.

No, just give it an hour to break in.

 

[dsy5]

Thanks guys I was ready to give up hope. The coils aren't glowing, so it's getting juice. I redid a new wick, this time using the cool water, heat with torch x 5 and redid the coil again. Now the taste is better, immense throat hit, but not a lot of vapor. Chripes, this thing is a bear to get right. I have 4 wraps. So you think I should go higher? If I'm doing the ohms right, I put the + lead on the + post and the - on the screw where the other coil wire is right? I'm getting about 2.2 if I'm doing it right.

You are right. And the value of 2.2Ω sounds about right. Just keep fiddling with it, you'll eventually get it. A little lower value will probably get you more vapor, but stick to getting a coil with no hot spots first. Sometimes the immense throat hit is a sign of a hot spot.

And Scrappy is right, it takes a while for a new coil to break in - the more you use it, the better it becomes, in flavor and vapor and you will develope enough 'gunk' from the juice to further insulate the coil from the wick.

 

[dBm0]

I had that same thing with my mini DuDs a while back. Dry metallic burnt taste and I couldn't turn the volts down low enough to get rid of the burnt taste. Thinking back on that now I believe my coils were too low of ohms (1.2 at the time) and I really didn't work out all the hot spots to be honest. Got frustrated and gave up, but saw this thread and read the cross-referenced blog and it helped emensly.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...82050-about-did-postal-over-hot-top-coil.html

Burned the ss mesh with a bic lighter one more time right where the coils are wound and wrapped 5/4 for 1/8 ohms loosely by hand keeping the coil spacing even. Quick pulses on 3 volts, then slowly worked up the volts doing quick pulses. Also noticing the coils may need some time to break in because the vapor and flavor has improved quite a bit from yesterday.

 

[jamesfarrell]

This thing is weird. On my Natural, when I screw down the tank it pushes the pin up, which causes the bushing to dislodge which caused the battery to get super hot before. It cooled and luckily it's still good. Appears the pin is a tad long for my MOD. This ..... is a nightmare. But the thing looks so bad ..., I want to continue messing with it. I'm about ready to puke from vaping with this thing, LOL.

Now I'm hardly getting any vapor but a huge throat hit that's causing a lot of coughing. This thing sure is finicky.

 

[budynbuick]

There comes a time when one has learnt(not saying don't ask Q's) all one can on doing a coil. I reached a point where I couldn't learn anymore So I just started doing it over & over. Somebody said 'patience'. Thats what did it for me. Lets face it, this is not rocket science meaning any human can do this if they have the time/patience & determination. I expect for every successful coil builder there are 5 or more that have quietly given up. Don't give up as the feeling of conquering this seemingly impossible task LOL is immense. Not to mention the quality of the vape & cheaper. Just keep trying.

 

[Thrasher]

on the natural the pins are adjustable. the thing is with a geni you only go through all this once. while most dont have it this bad some do and its a bear to get right, but once you learn all the steps and what to do and not do it take 20 minutes.

I can only think the harshness is either too high a voltage, the wick really needs breaking in or a small hotspot. and make sure the airhole is right on the wick

 

[vapdivrr]

is your airhole lined up with the wick? this can be the harshness and low vapor production. now if you still have a burnt taste then its still shorting out somewhere.

 

[MJBinNM]

This thing is weird. On my Natural, when I screw down the tank it pushes the pin up, which causes the bushing to dislodge which caused the battery to get super hot before.

Screw the atty down onto your device before you wrap the coil. The center pin on these attys is adjustable since they just push in. If you have it screwed down onto the device before you build it, it won't move anymore. If you don't want to work with it on the device, at least make sure the pin is pushed in far enough that putting it on won't push it too far.

 

[Thrasher]

wait i just caught that ---- if the mod is pushing or moving the post, the post is loose and needs to be tightened down better. the center post on an atty shouldnt move at all and needs to be tightened tilll it stops. every time it moves, pops twists or spins it will throw the coil off.

 

[jamesfarrell]

How does it stay in place then? There's only a rubber bushing on the lower and upper half. I don't see how you can tighten it into anything.

 

[Thrasher]

just to be sure - this is the center pin we are talking about? the screw? doesnt it have a nut on the top to hold it into the body.
I dont own an aga so im only going by how it should be built and the pictures i see on the net. or i could be in left field somewhere and have no idea what you are talking about lol

Edit: after looking at some pics of the centerpin i see it doesnt have very long threads on it. in that case i would probably put a small washeror spacer underneath the first nut to tighten it up.

 

[budynbuick]

A lot of great inf here but what I don't see pointed (it may be self evident)out is look down your coil making sure there is a 'straight' shot down & through the wick hole in the base otherwise the wick will be crooked Putting sideways pressure on the coil). This can cause hotspots that can be hard to remedy. Accompanied by flaky ohms. I always check this but never heard it pointed out it in the forums.

 

[budynbuick]

In a vv/vw device you can just turn the power down until the burned taste is gone. In your case you'll have to raise the resistance to do it. Try 7 wraps and give it a go. I bet it will taste much better. For me, when I have a brand new wick it tastes a little muted for about 1/2 an hour then really comes to life.

The coil i'm using right now got real nice after 1 1/2 tanks. There are so many various aspects of coil/wick making & they are each one critical. Get any one wrong & you have a 'crappy' coil. Just gotta learn all you can & stik wit it

 

[04stinugget]

the low vapor and harsh hit sounds like your airhole isn't directly in front of the wick. My aga hole was a bit off at first. the cap all the way tightened down was about a quarter inch off to the right. after a few days worth of taking the cap on and off the oring broke in and now full tight is directly in front of the wick so give that a few days to sort itself out. also did you juice burn the wick prior to coiling? if not the first couple tanks are going to taste a bit funky till the wick is broken in. also i have noticed with mine that if I am patient and look closely you can actually see exactly where the short is thats causing your hotspots. it'll look like a very small vertical red line coming off your could climbing you wick. very very small but if your wick isn't crazy oxidized you can actually see it and adjust accordingly. also I found when adjusting mine if you steal you wifes/girlfriends needle nosed tweezers and give the coil a gentle squeeze instead of poking or prodding it seems to work a little better.

another thing I see people not mentioning is that if you start to taste a funny metal funk to your vape after your tank is full take the top cap off and pulse the device. whatever coil begins shooting off vapor first (assuming you did not have that taste to begin with) is your hot spot. again adjust accordingly and once you see all coils begin giving vapor evenly put the cap back on and vape away. I have only had my aga for like a week and a couple days so the learning curve is pretty steep with this thing but don't give up. once you get it figured out it is a killer device and an even better vape.

 

[dsy5]

Another thing to point out is that you should orient your device while vaping so that the air hole is pointing straight down (6:00 position).

 

[jamesfarrell]

just to be sure - this is the center pin we are talking about? the screw? doesnt it have a nut on the top to hold it into the body.
I dont own an aga so im only going by how it should be built and the pictures i see on the net. or i could be in left field somewhere and have no idea what you are talking about lol

Edit: after looking at some pics of the centerpin i see it doesnt have very long threads on it. in that case i would probably put a small washeror spacer underneath the first nut to tighten it up.

No it's a floating type pin. There's a bushing at the bottom and a rubber bushing at the top. The pin just sits inside the center of the bushing. On the top, there are 3 nuts that go into a threaded portion, but you can't tighten them down all the way or your'll squish the bushing. There's like 1mm of play and what happens is if you screw the device onto your mod and your pin on your mod is too far up, it pushes the center rod up and can dislodge the upper bushing. Does this make sense to anyone?

 

[eHuman]

this right here is most of your problem, you are creating uneven tension in the coil. when using the drillbit method the wick has to slide in pretty easy if you have to fight to get it in then its wrong and will lead to problems.

If you have a heavily oxidized wick then freehand wrap the coil around it or make the wick smaller for the drill bit coil.

Thrasher was the first one to give spot on advice right out of the gate.
Keep in mind that my write up is specifically for the AGA-T2 original (I don't know of knock off differences in sizes) but the theory behind it crosses all RBAs.

That being said, click on my blog entries under my avatar and see if that info can't help you out a bit.

 

[jamesfarrell]

Yes, the tension was the primary issue. The issue is that I wanted to use a bigger drill bit, but the hole would not accept it. So I had to go nuts and kill my fingers compressing the mesh. If someone could figure out a way to make a mesh, pre rolled for these devices, something solid rather than a roll of metal mesh, they'd be a millionaire. Seems to be working good now. Besides the pin moving. It just doesn't make good contact with my Natural MOD. I have to take the top off the Atty and push the pin down sometimes.

Also, I guess I'm not use to the different type of hit this gives. It's not as hars as an atomizer with a cartridge. So I'm not use to it. It's smoothe, I would say. But seems to not have much flavor and seems to go through juice like nobody's business. I wonder if I'd benefit by going to 400 or 500 mesh, rather then 325?

I would think that 325 would wick better as the there are less holes per inch? 400 and 500 means more holes per inch which to me would = less absorption and less wicking?

I watched a video where a guy takes 32g wire and double wraps it. I don't know how he does that, didn't watch that video. Assuming with a drill bit or something. I'm wondering if that is of benefit.

I used the drill bit method a bunch of times. I got 5+ hours into this #@%$%(*@ thing. Unreal. But it seems to be working now. I just think they should have some sort of mechanism where you can adjust the pin length so it has better contact with the mod. It would seem that you can adjust the top nuts, which would adjust the pin length, but the bottom is the issue. Needs to have some sort of threaded design instead of the rod going through the bushing. This, as I said can cause the top bushing to dislodge and cause a short.

I almost lost 2 batteries because of this. I guess this device still has a long way to go, or my mod is not the best perhaps for this device.

 

[Thrasher]

the center pin on the natural is adjustable take the top off and use a screw driver to make it taller.

and this whole bushing thing sounds like poor design, im a tinkerer so i would end up putting a small washer or spacer on there and tightening the whole thing up.