Is it a mech?

[Wickeddeuce]

There is a switch in most wood mods that typically at its highest is 10 amps... this makes them semi mech... a pure mech has no amp limits or any form of regulation... semi typically has a button that has some form of amp limit to it...

This is my understanding of the difference of pure and semi mechs...

 

[Dampmaskin]

Everything has an amp limit. Even these:

 

[sneakerpimp]

So how many consider that a mech
and how many consider it not a mech.

apparently some have a problem with the definition of mechanical and now we're hearing the term full mech. what you describe is not a full mech so call it whatever you like other than that.

 

[Wickeddeuce]

Those are considered semi mech... current reo woodvils are considered semi mech... not regulated but not purely mech... the Oliver on the other hand, is what i believe to be a pure mech wood mod...

Isn't it just great when people make up their own definitions to terms that were in use long before they learned them?


A MECHANICAL mod is just that. One that works with a purely mechanical circuit. There are no electronics to power, it's purely mechanical in the way it functions.

If there is solder or wires that makes ZERO difference to it being a mechanical circuit. Solder is metal, as are wires, which means the ONLY difference between them and a metal tube is the shape. So you are effectively saying that something isn't a mech mod because it's not shaped the way you prefer, and it has nothing at all to do with how the mod works.

You can believe that if you like, but it's just wrong, and anyone who knows what the term Mechanical really means will tell you that you're wrong.


Now, as for the question about a device having on board circuits that read battery voltage and measure ohms being a mech mod, there is a simple way to find out. Remove the PCB, cap off the wires leading to it, and see if the mod still works. If it doesn't it's not a mechanical circuit, it's an electrical circuit that requires the PCB to work.

I understand where you are coming from, i am not going to argue your point.

However, within our sub culture, additional terms have been added. I did not coin the term semi mech, but it is a term common in this community.

What is the amp limit of a nemesis? Or a dripper? I don't know, i know its greater than what our current batteries offer...

The term semi mech came about, to my knowledge and understanding from mechanical mods that utilize a push button and wires that only have a certain amp limit. Some 5, some 10... this term is helpful for those who sub ohm. I know that I am less likely to purchase a mod that will have issues beyond 10 amps.

I don't always run below .5 ohms but i like to know that i can.

A mechanical is a mech be it semi or pure as some, myself included have begun to refer to them

 

[edyle]

The true definition of "mechanical mod" is more or less a push button and a physical direct path for current flow

The electronic bling make it a hybrid of sorts...

It is kinda like saying a bolt isn't a mechanical...but there isn't anything regulating or changing the voltage and/or current to the coil...

I would say it's a mechanical as long as there isn't a separation or conversion of battery to coil path...but who cares...Vape Yo Face Off

So does the Smoktech Bolt have some electronic bling? Like maybe there's an LED light on the on/off button or something?

 

[Wickeddeuce]

I'm sure someone else will chime in about the bolt. I don't know much about the bolt but i believe the button has an amp limit like i was talking about before, but I'm not entirely positive on that...

 

[edyle]

I'm sure someone else will chime in about the bolt. I don't know much about the bolt but i believe the button has an amp limit like i was talking about before, but I'm not entirely positive on that...

So what's the amp limit on a mech in your definition? 30 amps?

 

[edyle]

I can believe there aren't any mods out there yet that work as a mech but with a display that shows voltage and ohms when you press the fire button.

Maybe there's a head that screws on like a topcap that does it for a mech.

 

[Wickeddeuce]

I couldn't tell you what the amp limit is of a mech... its greater than what our batteries can handle...

Well that may or may not be entirely true. The REO with its current spring has difficulties below .6 ohms... the current spring will collapse from too much heat... the button will melt from too much heat...

I haven't done so to mine but i have been informed...

As a whole its safe to say most mechanical 18650 mods can withstand 30 amps or more... its also fairly safe to say that 26650 mods have amp limits of 50 amps or more (Sony 26650 50a battery)

 

[edyle]

I couldn't tell you what the amp limit is of a mech... its greater than what our batteries can handle...

Well that may or may not be entirely true. The REO with its current spring has difficulties below .6 ohms... the current spring will collapse from too much heat... the button will melt from too much heat...

I haven't done so to mine but i have been informed...

As a whole its safe to say most mechanical 18650 mods can withstand 30 amps or more... its also fairly safe to say that 26650 mods have amp limits of 50 amps or more (Sony 26650 50a battery)

So I guess part of your definition of a mech is:
The amp limit is greater than whatever the current batteries of the time can handle.

 

[Rickajho]

So here's the question:

If you have a mod, that looks like a vamo, but has no vv or vw; the left/right buttons only read battery volts and coil ohms respectively, and display the result on the screen, and if they don't work or the display don't work it doesn't interfere with the fire button, which merely fires like a mech, which a lock ring down at the bottom.

So it's a mech with volt and ohm meter added on.

So how many consider that a mech
and how many consider it not a mech.

I would need to see the design before I would consider it anything at all. It would take a lot of design work to put those testing circuits in place and yet in no way interfere with the purely mechanical function of a mod and not compromise it.

 

[rurwin]

I disagree. It's a simple circuit, so long as the electronics are not required to operate at the same time as vaping is happening. You just have one circuit through the mech-switch and another for the electronics. Hit both switches at the same time and you will short out the electronics, but not in a bad way. (Same voltage to both ends, no current flows.)

The trick would be to build that switch in the same space as you put the circuit board; it's going to be tight or big.

It is difficult to find a high-amp switch in a small enough size. Switches for some reason tend to be built to carry 100V+, and at 30 or 50 amps they are big. So mech-mods make them out of brass rods and springs. There's no reason you couldn't have a commercial solderable part in place of the mechanics, all switches are mechanical after all, but it would be difficult to find. Having such a part would be an advantage, since it could have a tactile click effect and thus make firmer contact with lower resistance.

 

[nclobo]

The AnyMOD might be close to what you're looking for. It's a vv/vw mod with an unregulated mode.

Anyvape AnyMOD Express Kit - $58.95 - WORLDofVAPE

Haven't found a lot of info on it though. Especially the unregulated operation.

 

[bce22]

The answer is obvious. It's a mechtronic. Duh!

 

[Completely Average]

I can believe there aren't any mods out there yet that work as a mech but with a display that shows voltage and ohms when you press the fire button.

The problem is in order to take those readings you would have to place sensors in between the battery and topper, and then the electronics are going to require some of the electricity to run. That means it wouldn't be a true mech, and wouldn't provide the full power a true mech would deliver.

This is especially true if the electronics could take readings without firing the mod. That would require the electronics to actively draw power at all times. May as well go VV/VW at that point.

 

[rurwin]

The problem is in order to take those readings you would have to place sensors in between the battery and topper, and then the electronics are going to require some of the electricity to run. That means it wouldn't be a true mech, and wouldn't provide the full power a true mech would deliver.

This is especially true if the electronics could take readings without firing the mod. That would require the electronics to actively draw power at all times. May as well go VV/VW at that point.

Yes it will take power, maybe as much as 10 microamps or less. I dare you to say you can notice a drop on power of 0.00003% when you are vaping. If you really want to be hard line about it, then you could make the electronics power down completely when you weren't pushing their buttons.

You have it the wrong way round. The electronics only has to be in the "firing line" if you can take readings while firing the mod.

Look at it this way, a Grand Prix circuit needs to be high speed all the way round. On qualifying day the teams might run some high speed laps and then pull the car into the pit lane for some checks and adjustments before sending it out again. On laps where it goes into the pit lane, the car is not going to break any speed records, but it doesn't need to. On high speed laps, the pit lane has no effect.

 

[edyle]

For anybody who's interested, just came accross this inline meter module that goes between the mech mod and the tank.
This one only reads volts.

What's that red wire there at the right of the "1"?
maybe its a kind of homemade gizmo?
anyway it see it at lightningvapes:

Assembled Volt Indicator Inline Meter - Clear
$12.99 USD In Stock!

 

[l_strider_l]

mech, for sure.

 

[beckdg]

For anybody who's interested, just came accross this inline meter module that goes between the mech mod and the tank.
This one only reads volts.

What's that red wire there at the right of the "1"?
maybe its a kind of homemade gizmo?
anyway it see it at lightningvapes:

that's just a pre-assembled volt meter that works on a low voltage power source stuffed into a carto tank with a 510 connector shoved in there to make the electrical connection. it was a DIY project before stores started selling them.

the red wire is the positive wire. there is a black, negative wire that comes off the back of those units as well. you can get the boards with the displays already wired up in bulk for extremely cheap from china.