Is it just me? Kanger T3...

[mgmrick]

Must be you got a batch made on a friday afternoon. Has not been the case here. Mine all worked great out of the box

Hit it right square on the head!! Well-engineered, but poorly built! Half my replacement heads for them came DOA straight out of the factory wrapper! If you want to take the time to rebuild them they 'may' perform well..or..may not... Very finicky little buggers they are...

Am in the process of rebuilding 10 (that's right 10, count'em 10) heads that either died after a few hours use (gurgling, spitting, juice in the mouth, flooding, etc) or were DOA out of the packaging... Using 2mm silca with 32ga kanthal 4/3 wraps with replacement bottom grommets (AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher) that seem to work much better than the factory ones and 4 strands of silca for flavor wicks... They test out at around 1.8 ohms on average...

This, the standard T3 problems, seem to extend, in varying degrees, to all Kanger products -- from T3s right up thru the ProTank -- from what I've seen on the forums so it's kind of a crap shoot... If you get a good one, you're Golden; if you don't, you're SOL...

 

[Odirom]

Mind you, all of the stuff in this thread has been great so far. I cannot agree more with the "poorly manufactured" sentiment. One thing I have had to do with all of mine (I have 3) is the flair out the top tube. I had juice in the mouth with all three. Turns out that the center tube had a gap that would let juice from the tank into the main flow tube (and my mouth) when it was upside down. You know, when you fill it. I needed to run an awl into the mouthpiece and push it in firm and wiggle it around to expand the main tube and seal off that gap. Did it with all three (along with rebuilding the coils which were crap and rewicking with cheese cloth) and these things are the charm now.

Again, well engineered, just built poorly. They are a tinkering man's tank. If you don't or aren't willing to do that, then avoid this tank. If you don't mind flairing, rewicking, and maybe recoiling from the get go then these are great. Once you have a fresh wick and close the air holes this is the best tank I have ever used.

I love it, but I corrected the quality defects that were in the product upon delivery...

My $.02.

BDT

 

[mgmrick]

One of the big vendors has bottom coil clearomizers that look like the kanger but not listed as a kanger. Maybe someone else is also making these. I have not had any of the issues that a few people seem to be having here. I have also handed these out to 3 relatives and they really like them. I find my self using these more and more using my aga-t ss mesh wick setups less and less

 

[manji1]

So after reading this thread I decided I would try to resurrect something from my junk box. I had an evod that I really liked using on an ego while I was at work. I have just been using mechs and RBAs at home for a while so I have some experience tearing this stuff apart now. I took apart the head (the coils in there were super tight with gaps everywhere!) then I took two pieces of 1mm silica (I think I'll do 3 or 4 next time) did a 5/6 of 30g kanthal, put it back together and it was beasting. Then an hour later it was a leaky mess. So I took it back apart and put a 2mm "flavor" wick on top, put it back together and BAM. It is working perfectly now. Thanks to everyone who posted here, it has been a huge help.

 

[JeremyR]

I do 4 1mm silica, in coil, no flavor wicks that works best for me. I find that the coil has to be at a perfect tightness balance of not too tight not too loose. I also notched cup seal. I find loosing the tank a little is key tighten then loosen till you see air bubbles rise.

 

[charlzrocks]

I suggest checking utube for "rebuilding a T3 clearomizer" ... there is a good one by vapingwithdave....it's long but worth the time!