I don't get random fluctuations. A .07 build is .07 ever time I use that atty. a .7 build is .70 every time I use that atty. a .84 build is always .84. Never .83 or .85. You are talking about 1/10th of an ohm of fluctuation and I don't get 1/100th of an ohm of random fluctuation. The only fluctuations I get are temp based and used to control the temp.
Is temperature control worth it?
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No my PCs never overheat because I build them with a good mix of positive and negative airflow and have filters on my fan cutouts that I change out regularly. But I don't take my CPU apart and replace the thermal paste unless the PC shows my signs of absolute need. Why? Because in that process I can actually do more harm than good by possibly bending a pin or breaking the arm on my socket.
This mystical voltage drop you're trying to avoid can do you more harm that good if you keep taking things apart and back together also wear and tear on your threads and o-rings.
As long as you have a good atty and a really stable coil between the post screws, then the coil's resistance will ONLY vary based on the temperature of the room. And even if that happens, it doesn't affect anything because the mod always uses your locked resistance as the baseline. (Some mods don't have resistance lock and that's another issue all together -- some deal with it better than others).
The algorithms these mods use are based on a baseline temperature of 20°C (68°F) because that's the temperature that the industrial spec sheets use as the baseline (i.e. spec sheets like this one). So the mod is assuming that when you lock in the resistance that the ambient temp is 68°F. If the temp in your house is close to that (say within 5-10F), then the resulting temp should be pretty close to what you set it.
So you use filters that you clean of replace? Same principal. You didn't just put filters on and never check it again.
Yes, o-rings wear. They are a wear item and are cheap. Who cares if you have to replace them? Threadwear is minimal unless you are incompetent. I pull the heads off of my 740ci race engine every 4 passes and losen quite a few nuts to do that. It is running the same head studs and nuts as it was in '99. Still in great shape. Threads only get damaged if you damage them. Wear takes years to become a problem.
If I may interject, I believe this misunderstanding is based on something simple.
A slightly loose (caused by heating/cooling) contact or eliquid film on contacts can cause a 0.1 ohm drift over the course of a day. When you are vaping at 0.7-3 ohms this drift is inconsequential. But if the coil resistance is 0.2 it makes a big difference.
For hobbyist vapers this is not an issue because we like to fiddle and clean and tweak. For a new vaper or non technical vaper this is a big problem. They need simple and reliable. Just likes smokes were.
Saying "I never get drift" or "everyone has this problem" is over simplifying just for the sake of arguing.
A slightly loose (caused by heating/cooling) contact or eliquid film on contacts can cause a 0.1 ohm drift over the course of a day. When you are vaping at 0.7-3 ohms this drift is inconsequential. But if the coil resistance is 0.2 it makes a big difference.
For hobbyist vapers this is not an issue because we like to fiddle and clean and tweak. For a new vaper or non technical vaper this is a big problem. They need simple and reliable. Just likes smokes were.
Saying "I never get drift" or "everyone has this problem" is over simplifying just for the sake of arguing.
Not every weekend. I did make 22 passes 2 weeks ago. When it does go to the track, it usually makes up for the time it was sitting. If it sits for very long I tear it down and check for any issues before it goes to the track as well. Replace the o-rings, fire rings, gaskets and check/replace the bearings as well. Preventative maintenance is cheaper than running it until it blows.
I currently have a 45 ohm single Ti coil in my Derringer. I somewhat indirectly measured the peak resistance it hit with the mod set to 500F by taking a very long series of vapes, and then quickly unscrewing and rescrewing the atty. Thus giving me a real time temp reading from the EVIC (it would be nice if they showed the measured temp while the fire button is pressed but they don't). I get about 62 ohms.
That is a delta of 0.17 ohms over a range of 430F. Dividing, that's 25 ohms per 0.01 ohm. If the atty drifts by 0.02 ohms, which I see very typically over the course of a day or at least over a few days, that offsets the temperature by 50F. So someone comparing a vape at 400F against someone else at 450F or against his own vape the following day, might see identical results.
As long as that resistance remains stable the vape will be fine. The mod might be set to 400F or 450F, giving the same actual vaping results. But if the mod drifts 0.02 ohm in between resistance locks (assuming as you mention that the mod provides for that) then the vape can change considerably.
"As long as you have a good atty and a really stable coil between the post screws"
Sure, it's easy to make an idealized assumption but that is a huge IF. Which has been the point I've been trying to make. I can only speak from experience that among the 3 atty's I now have configured for TC, a 0.02 ohm drift is very typical. I'm happy if that is the extent of it. And in reading many TC threads, I see that I am not alone although in many cases people do not quite understand what is going on, and/or how sensitive that temp measurement really is (in the order of 25F/0.01 ohm).
"And even if that happens, it doesn't affect anything because the mod always uses your locked resistance as the baseline."
Again, that is only true if the circuit remains ideally stable subsequent to locking (either manually or however the device divines that). But in all cases it does affect the vape based on the indicated temp. So if someone gets it in their head that they want to vape at 400F they may be unhappy at times (and I've seen that reported in threads, when people complain about TC problems). And of course, it could be more than 50F. I've seen variances of 100F from time to time. Particularly with new coils that perhaps have not "settled in" yet, or perhaps weren't given quite enough cool down time when a lock reset was needed. Or perhaps who knows
Just to be clear, I never suggested "everyone" has this problem of drift. I was very careful to say that it is very dependent on the atty, the mod and how it is used. It is a potential problem people need to be aware of and understand how to go about trouble shooting. Personally I don't think most of the RBA decks are up to the task of keeping the coil wires well connected to the posts, as I mentioned before, but that's just a fuzzy hunch of mine. And I do regularly check tightness of the coils, but except for my Royal Hunter I can't tighten as much as I'd like.
I question if TC, as currently implemented, will ever go "mainstream" (outside of the hobbyist side) simply because it does require so much maintenance and gear selection to keep it running properly. Although I haven't tried using factory coils and that might not require so much maintenance, certainly not the coils (perhaps just frequent (relatively expensive) coil replacement).
My point has nothing to do with threads wearing out, bolts stretch & loose their strength.
There really is a reason that we ALWAYS used new fasteners.
(I was an automotive engineer, and earned a large portion of my living building engines)
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True, if they are overstressed. How likely is that with an rda? For this engine, we use torque and a stretch gauge to see if they are still within spec. 16 years and they still spec out. But my fire rings will come apart before the bolts stretch, so that has something to do with their life. There are a lot of designed to fail parts to protect other parts.
1. do u get dry hits?
2. do u like cooler vapes?
if you say no to both u dont need tc
if you dont get dry hits and you have a cooler vape.. theres no reason to tc lolWell I like a cooler vape, but I know how to get it without TC.
if you get dry hits but you want to vape at a consistent temperature (cool, warm, hot) then you can play around with tc
If you risk breaking a CPU pin while applying heat paste: you're putting it on the wrong side
(Just joking around. I get what you're saying.)
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