Is there a trick to changing coils that doesn't cause leaking?

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Blkwdw86

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It sounds like you're putting clone parts on an original PT or original parts on a clone PT. Easy to do, the clones... they're everywhere!

Compare your new coil to the old one. Look for subtle differences. One thing I've found and do regularly when changing coils is to transfer the old top post to the new coil. I have Evods, some clone, some original, and not all the top posts from new coils fit each tank, so when changing coils I transfer the post too, keep it with the tank it came from. Try recycling your top post and silicone cup, it just pulls out with a little wiggle from a pair of pliers.
 
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nemoishouse

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They are Kanger 1.8. I did notice the o ring on the bottom is clear versus the old one on the old coil that was yellowish although that may have been from the juice I was using but I didn't change the juice in the tank. It didn't seem to thread down as far as the original coil though.


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DaveP

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Kanger heads are finally being standardized. I have a SS Evod (brand name) that Evod BCC cartomizer heads won't engage the threads. Then, I have TS3 heads with a much longer tube that work fine. The Evod head has a short tube. It's the height of the center part of the base that prevents engagement.

Kanger is supposedly introducing a one size fits all head that works across the entire line of Kanger tanks. Everyone is confused about which head fits which tank.

Will the Kanger Bases and Heads fit on this?: FastTech Forums
 

nemoishouse

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It sounds like you're putting clone parts on an original PT or original parts on a clone PT. Easy to do, the clones... they're everywhere!

Compare your new coil to the old one. Look for subtle differences. One thing I've found and do regularly when changing coils is to transfer the old top post to the new coil. I have Evods, some clone, some original, and not all the top posts from new coils fit each tank, so when changing coils I transfer the post too, keep it with the tank it came from. Try recycling your top post and silicone cup, it just pulls out with a little wiggle from a pair of pliers.

So the center part of a coil can be removed and reinserted into a new one??




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DaveP

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So the center part of a coil can be removed and reinserted into a new one??




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The tube can be removed and moved to another Kanger head. Just be advised that tubes are different sizes and lengths. It's the center machined part around the coil that varies in height and prevents some heads from fitting other tanks. To remove the tube just grab it and rock it to one side until it pops loose. You put it on another head by pressing it into place. Don't disturb the flavor wicks (top ones). They sometimes come out and unravel. It doesn't hurt to have some 2mm silica rope wick around if you are doing this sort of thing. They use two strands of 1mm, but the 2mm works fine. Cut it off with an end cutter to match the original after replacing the silicone seal that holds it in place.
 
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DavidOck

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You can also use one strand of cotton yarn for the flavor wick.

Another and subtler difference in heads - other than the length of the air tube - is the part that looks like a small flat washer, at the base of the coil. Some are slightly wider, and that can cause problems leaking if put on some bases. ProTank/Evod heads are wider, and won't go on the T3S, Davide, Aro, etc. But the slightly narrower T3S, Aro, Davide heads go fine into the PT/Evod bases.
 
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