I've read some people don't kick their mechanical mods. Is it really a necessity to use one?
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No, just as long as you build your rbas with the 3.7v in mind.
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Hello, thanks for the input, but engineers normally need more than one variable to figure out what you mean.
Not only is it not necessary, I'd typically recommend against it. Sure, they'll give you variable wattage and a regulated vape, but that's not what you buy a mechanical for. With that variable wattage comes a relatively low wattage ceiling, which somewhat defeats the purpose of having a mechanical in the first place.
What does that mean? If you use a Kick you can't get the full wattage out of the PV. No sub-1-ohm coils for you! You also get shorter battery life, and possibly other issues if the Kick decides not to behave well.
I had a couple. I got rid of them and I've been much happier.
What does that mean? If you use a Kick you can't get the full wattage out of the PV. No sub-1-ohm coils for you! You also get shorter battery life, and possibly other issues if the Kick decides not to behave well.
I had a couple. I got rid of them and I've been much happier.
Is there a table or calculation to figure out what ohms will = what power?
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You use a kick if you want a variable voltage device but all you have is a mechanical. There are perks to having one, like constant voltage and being able to swap it between devices, but the main purpose of a mech is to be the yin to technology's yang, nothing sesitive to worry about. Kicking a mech is personal taste, for the perks or for the money saved. You can buy 3 Chinese mechs, each kicked, for the price of one Provari, you can buy a Chinese variable voltage mod and it will probably last no longer than any other imported electronics do.
Ok, from the replies, I guess I sort of asked a vague question.
I know of two devices that people talk about in the world of mechanicals. One is the kick and the other the 2cents fuse(I think that's the name). I guess I've seen so many threads concerning mechanicals where the kick was "highly" recommended and then hear that some people bought them, used them, then trashed them. In fact I already knew "Trick" didn't use his kicks anymore before I even posted.
The point is, I was also thinking about safety as I've heard that the kick also has safety built in. Are any of you that don't use a kick, or perhaps even a 2cents not worried about battery safety? I'm actually a retired engineer, so I know about current running through these RBA's, and I guess it's my engineering background and running with no protection that's the source of my query.
I know of two devices that people talk about in the world of mechanicals. One is the kick and the other the 2cents fuse(I think that's the name). I guess I've seen so many threads concerning mechanicals where the kick was "highly" recommended and then hear that some people bought them, used them, then trashed them. In fact I already knew "Trick" didn't use his kicks anymore before I even posted.
The point is, I was also thinking about safety as I've heard that the kick also has safety built in. Are any of you that don't use a kick, or perhaps even a 2cents not worried about battery safety? I'm actually a retired engineer, so I know about current running through these RBA's, and I guess it's my engineering background and running with no protection that's the source of my query.
I always use a Kick or Holocron Shortstop. Peace of Mind
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Hi. Just curious. I'm using a vamo now and when I check my batt life it shows the voltage eg. 3.9v. However with mech mods does the voltage drop with battery life like in a vamo or does it stay constant eg. 3.7v output battery until the battery runs out of power?
It just depends on your taste. There are several mods that are designed to use with the kick. Its just a cool option to make your mechanical regulated. Its not needed or necessary. The kick dose work well and is a nice thing to have.
Hello, thanks for the input, but engineers normally need more than one variable to figure out what you mean.
With a mechanical the other "variable" is how long you hold the button down before you start sucking on it.
(call it manual voltage regulation)
I didn't buy a mechanical so that I could worry about a kick or a fuse. I bought it for the simplicity and the straight vape of what ever I chose to put on top of it at that time. If I want power and control, I have the Vamo. If I want a constant output, I have ego-t upgrades.
All three of these devices give me a different "flavor" using the same tanks/atties/cartos/clearos. Admittedly, I think I enjoy the single coil, standard resistance on my mechanical better then the low res dual coils I prefer on my other systems.
All three of these devices give me a different "flavor" using the same tanks/atties/cartos/clearos. Admittedly, I think I enjoy the single coil, standard resistance on my mechanical better then the low res dual coils I prefer on my other systems.
The Kick and the 2cent fuse are not the same...
The Kick is a device to insert in a non vv device to make it variable wattage. It does have short circuit protection built in. This is from the instructions for the Kick...
Short Circuit Protection: The Kick will detect shorts in the connection between the Kick and the atty/carto coil. This sensor is sensitive and if it detects short, the Kick will not fire. If you experience this, unthread your atty/carto and clean out any accumulated juice in all connections and then gently re-thread atty/carto until only finger-tip snug. If device still will not fire, try a different atty/carto and/or adapter. This is designed both as a safety feature and to protect the components of the Kick module.
The 2cent fuse is a safety fuse that goes between the battery and the bottom spring in a device. In the case of a short in the device, the fuse will trip and shut down the circuit between the battery and the device and keep the battery from going into a thermal meltdown. They are making the fuses now that are resettable as opposed to one time use when they were introduced originally. I think it is supposed to work along the same lines as a Li-Ion battery does when the protection circuit trips inside them, except when the batteries protection circuit is tripped the battery is then no good and needs to be replaced.
I think most everyone is worried about battery safety, or they should be! I myself use "ONLY" Li-Mn type batteries because they are "Safer Chemistry" batteries. I use only AW IMR's and the Panasonic CGR's. I pretty much only vape mechanical devices and feel safer that the batteries can handle the higher amp loads I vape at with my RBA's and to this day have yet to see any data or proof that a Li-Mn battery has exploded like some Li-Ion batteries have in the past. All the data I have seen so far, Li-Mn's have vented only.
I use mechanicals and no kick. I don't see the point in using something that limits your wattage, which is one of the reasons I started using mechanicals in the first place. The resistance on all my rebuildables are 0.8 ohm, the kick is recommended to have resistance between 1.3-3 ohms. I don't understand why people use a kick with mechanicals...you might as well use a VV/VW device.
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