I agree I don't rinse that is far too much of hassle I just swap flavors on the fly its only a vape or two until it gets to the new flavor.
iSeason Mechanical Mod -- Adam clone w/brass contacts
- Thread starter StaircaseWit
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I agree I don't rinse that is far too much of hassle I just swap flavors on the fly its only a vape or two until it gets to the new flavor.
I did it with a cobra/did clone and an aga-T - both gave me overall voltage of 3.5 on a freshly charged battery
Any news on the size of magnet to get for the switch or the spring size/bolt size?
Hmm...I get as high as 4.01 on a 4.20V battery fresh off the charger with a 1.7ohm coil in the AGA-T2. Is your T2 dirty by chance?
Perusing another thread on roller/dingo mods where atmizoo mentioned how the male 510 connectors varies significantly on different heads. Everyone's focused on the tail end spring, but a sloppy fitting head will have as much affect on voltage drop as the spring and switch. May be, just guessing here so bear with me, the different reported voltage drops. To test the true voltage drop of the mod, seems a 1 ohm resister between the 510 contact and dmm lead (other dmm lead on the other side of the 510 connector) would be a better & more consistent method than testing across the coil on different heads, and eliminate any atomizer fit, coil, or plating differences.
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Funny you say that.
Today I started to realize how many vivis I have and looked at my dids/vivi/and 2agaTs and looked at all the contacts and they were all green and nasty like sterling silver jewelry after wearing it in the shower .
So I actually used a little scrubber to clean all the 510 connectors . Still same drop on the dids and agas . 3.5.-3.6 on a fresh battery
Ill test the drop on the vivi heads tomorrow
hi guys, my iseason arrived today, but i need some help...
the center pin sunk in connection. no contact. I tested it on all my accessories (vivi nova, cartos, clearos, attys).
the thread does not fit right for set-up 18350, and it is hard to thread.
what can I do to solve? I have a bit of "handicraft"
the center pin sunk in connection. no contact. I tested it on all my accessories (vivi nova, cartos, clearos, attys).
the thread does not fit right for set-up 18350, and it is hard to thread.
what can I do to solve? I have a bit of "handicraft"
Agreed, it sounds like the pin may be sticking too far into the body of the head. Flip it over and have a look.
Not sure. Make sure the ground wire on the side of the kick is making good contact with the tube. Otherwise they're pretty basic to connect; bottom goes towards the top of the battery and the brass top should easily contact the brass contact on the iSeason.
Forgot to post an image of the RSST on the iSeason. It looks like a hybrid it matches so well. Outside diameter is perfect (as it would be on most 22mm mods) and the brushed finish is pretty much identical (I left the included drip tip on it for these images):
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Light seeker - now that you have the juniorSeason - can u test the drop with your batteries and your RBA? If you can get your wife away from it for a little bit ?
My smok telescope which I purchased about 2 hours before my wife came home with a GG stealth was running at 3.6 v on a freshly charged AW IMR which - I have to see what mods or tweaks can be done to it to minimize the drop - anyway
The GG is running at 3.9 on the same exact battery and same RBA (aga-t+)
My smok telescope which I purchased about 2 hours before my wife came home with a GG stealth was running at 3.6 v on a freshly charged AW IMR which - I have to see what mods or tweaks can be done to it to minimize the drop - anyway
The GG is running at 3.9 on the same exact battery and same RBA (aga-t+)
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The RSST, hands down, although I really want to convert it to a pyrex tank, which isn't as simple as the AGA-T2. I'll get it done, though.
The RSST is much more "refined" build. The wick hole is actually insulated electrically from the deck, so if you're running mesh wicks you don't have to worry about contact with the wick hole; the center post is spring-loaded so all you have to do is tuck the top wire under a washer -- much nicer than fiddling with the tiny nuts on the AGA-T2. It looks a lot nicer as well, IMO.
Light seeker - now that you have the juniorSeason - can u test the drop with your batteries and your RBA? If you can get your wife away from it for a little bit ?
My smok telescope which I purchased about 2 hours before my wife came home with a GG stealth was running at 3.6 v on a freshly charged AW IMR which - I have to see what mods or tweaks can be done to it to minimize the drop - anyway
The GG is running at 3.9 on the same exact battery and same RBA (aga-t+)
I tested the 18490 mod again with the RSST when I first got it and got a .23V drop with a 1.1ohm coil.
Light seeker - now that you have the juniorSeason - can u test the drop with your batteries and your RBA? If you can get your wife away from it for a little bit ?
My smok telescope which I purchased about 2 hours before my wife came home with a GG stealth was running at 3.6 v on a freshly charged AW IMR which - I have to see what mods or tweaks can be done to it to minimize the drop - anyway
The GG is running at 3.9 on the same exact battery and same RBA (aga-t+)
My first mechanical m'friend, thats why I was asking about the RSST & AGA RBAs! Don't have a RBA (yet) to easily measure. Guess I could take apart one of my vivas, been wrapping cotton in them with 1.4 - 1.6 ohm coils. I'll do that next time tank runs dry.
One thing I did notice on the iSeason .... a 1.4 ohm resistance between the spring and the copper tube. Which, of course, surprises nobody
Thanks, good info. I agree, not a fan of the tank either... looks like its had some cinnamon juice in it
The spring loaded posts & insulated hole sounds like a winner, stainless looks better than the chrome too.
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