iSeason Mechanical Mod -- Adam clone w/brass contacts

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StaircaseWit

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Hey folks, I modded mine to accept an 18490 in 18350 tube mode. I also took out the need for a spring, while maintaning proper venting capability. I'll post pictures tomorrow. It also hits harder than with the spring. I have no way to measure it, but it's hitting nearly as good as my iHybrid after the mods I made. STAY TUNED.

I did the same thing! I keep teasing it in this thread (quite a few pages back now) because I never finished the bottom of the top post to make the gap in the threads close. But I've measured the drop and it hits that strong because the voltage drop is very small, in the range of what you get with a luxury mod. I had planned on having pics up this weekend, but if you do it first have at it. :D


There will almost always be a resistance. It seems like a great mod to me for $35. The only mechanical I've had that didn't drop was my V4 mortar. It has all copper contacts and hits like a train. That also because I can't justify the money needed for a GG or iHy.

It's ONLY $35 ON THE CO-OP? Dang, I would have got another if I was verified and whatever else it takes. It's well worth that money just for the tubes and the switch. Modding it is simple if you find a brass or copper spring.


Believe the answer is find a beefy brass spring with flat ends that fit the tube more precisely.

I found one at the local hardware, but the OD is too small for the tube. I stretched it a bit and it does work and lower the voltage drop quite a bit -- not as much as the direct-brass-contact 18490 mod, but it's a lot better. McMaster-Carr has only a few brass and copper springs, as does Grainger, but there are specialty-spring companies all over that offer a lot more. I'll keep searching; I may have to call them with some specs and see what they come up with.
 

Lhartman89

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The thing is, you will always have a voltage drop, no matter what mod it is. It really depends on how good of a battery you have. Idk if anyone read that link about the atmizoo, but if you scroll down to the 14 Thoughts on “Voltage Drop – Not Where You Think" down at the bottom and looked at the post MANU, 06/02/2013, 1:27 PM, he explains why one person might have a problem and another might not.

Voltage Drop - Not Where You Think | atmizoo vaping modware
 

nnormandy

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As promised, here's my modification.

1. TAKE OUT THE SPRING.
2. Take off the vented end cap.
3. Insert the 18490 battery into the 350 tube (the one with the switch)
4. Push down on the top of the battery, it will be stopped by the switch assembly on the inside of the tube.
5. While maintaining downward pressure on the battery, screw on the vented end cap. Stop as soon as you feel the brass connection touch the battery. It will look like this:
20130310_181348.jpg
6. Take out the end cap, and sand down the brass connection until you can thread it all the way in while still touching the battery. It will look like this:
20130310_181501.jpg
IF YOU ATTEMPT THIS MOD, BE CAREFUL WHEN SANDING THE BRASS SPRING TUBE. If you make it too short, the device can fire without activating the switch. I got close -- I'm about 1/2 turn of the bottom cap from completely bottoming it out. THE BATTERY CAN CONTACT THE SWITCH if you're not careful. I just don't want anyone having safety issues with this modification. You want the bottom brass spring tube just long enough to touch the battery without getting too bottomed-out on the switch. (Credit to StaircaseWit)
7. Take off the end cap again, and add some slots for ventilation. I used a dremel.
20130310_181737.jpg
8. Put the end cap, 350 switch tube, and 490 battery back together. Now try to put on the atomizer connection cap. The brass pin will stop it from threading down all the way:
20130310_181535.jpg
9. Take off the atomizer end cap, and sand down the brass pin (the one that touches the nipple top of the battery) until it is flush with the white plastic surrounding it:
20130310_181624.jpg
 
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nnormandy

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10. Put everything back together. It should look close to flush:
20130310_181708.jpg

And that's it! You can make bigger ventilation slots if you so desire. This mod is only for 18490 batteries; you still need the spring to use an 18650. I've been rocking mine with an AGA-T2, 4/5 wrap of 28 kanthal at 1 ohm.
 
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StaircaseWit

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You did the exact mod I did, minus the slots. I didn't add ventilation slots, although I probably should have. I just tonight sanded the positive terminal flat. It pops right out if you push it from the 510 connection side with a screw or similar. I used a flat stone on a dremel to remove most of the brass, and finished up with a fine emery board.

As soon as I realized that the 18490 was so close to fitting in 18350 mode, I knew I had to do this mod.

IF YOU ATTEMPT THIS MOD, BE CAREFUL WHEN SANDING THE BRASS SPRING TUBE. If you make it too short, the device can fire without activating the switch. I got close -- I'm about 1/2 turn of the bottom cap from completely bottoming it out. THE BATTERY CAN CONTACT THE SWITCH if you're not careful. I just don't want anyone having safety issues with this modification. You want the bottom brass spring tube just long enough to touch the battery without getting too bottomed-out on the switch.

Next I plan to sink the positive terminal slightly into the white insulator at the top, so that the tubes will thread completely together without gaps.

It's a great little 18490 mod now! I can't really think of a smaller mod that holds 18490s -- they usually design the "pocket mods" to handle only 18350s.
 

thecatanddog

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nice one nnormandy! I also came up with another quick and very simple fix. I applied some blue locktite to the threading on the switch. I am still able to take the switch apart, but the main piece will be able to stay in there and not constantly come unthreaded. That was my biggest gripe with this, the threading on the switch is quite bad and constantly needed to be re-tightened. now this thing is a nice beater MOD. still doesn't hit quite as well as my other devices for some reason, but honestly it's not bad at all.
 

nnormandy

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IF YOU ATTEMPT THIS MOD, BE CAREFUL WHEN SANDING THE BRASS SPRING TUBE. If you make it too short, the device can fire without activating the switch. I got close -- I'm about 1/2 turn of the bottom cap from completely bottoming it out. THE BATTERY CAN CONTACT THE SWITCH if you're not careful. I just don't want anyone having safety issues with this modification. You want the bottom brass spring tube just long enough to touch the battery without getting too bottomed-out on the switch.

Exactly. I borrowed that for the picture guide, hope you don't mind. You want the battery to be as close to the switch as possible, without touching it.
 

StaircaseWit

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Exactly. I borrowed that for the picture guide, hope you don't mind. You want the battery to be as close to the switch as possible, without touching it.

And I didn't even get credit! :D

Yeah, I'd much rather people be safe than have a device with the battery activated and not realizing it. It's not a huge danger if you're careful, but it's definitely worth noting if people attempt this mod.

The good news is, it gives you a voltage drop in the 0.15 - 0.19V range -- similar to many luxury mods, although it depends on battery and coil. It's a *huge* improvement over the stock spring, though. Vapes very nicely.
 

StaircaseWit

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Staircase, I just edited it to give you credit. Now you will get the fame you deserve :p

Haha it was no big deal, I was joshin' ya. I just want to know that the mod we're suggesting to people doesn't cause them safety issues.

Now I'm on a search: what's the smallest mod that holds 18490s? I've been a fan of this battery because it's standard on the non-extended standard-size Provari, so I have a bunch of them and pretty much get a full day of vaping on one. Not many mods seem to be built to handle this battery other than telescopics; most are set up for 18350 or 18650. The 18490 is a great middle-of-the-road battery between those two and doesn't get enough love, IMO.

I think we may have created the smallest all-mechanical brass-on-brass mod that accepts 18490s. If it weren't for the deep drip well and eGo threading, it would be even shorter.
 

StaircaseWit

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The Gus 18500 would fit the 18490 wouldn't it? I was thinkin about getting a Gus telescope as I have 18350, 18500, and 18650.

I would assume so. 18500 is 50mm, 18490 is 49mm. I don't know if it uses a spring, but it has 1mm of extra space so a 1mm spacer would make the 18490 work. And the Gus line are very short mods.

That Gus telescopic is a beauty. I really would love one, but my $$ are about to be tied up in some live sound audio investments that I've been putting off for too long.

Okay, so maybe it's the "smallest 18490 brass-to-brass low-voltage-drop mod under $75"?
 
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