iSeason Mechanical Mod -- Adam clone w/brass contacts
- Thread starter StaircaseWit
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i have a mini gentech torch for jewelry prop/oxy and i just put it on my soldering station tweezers and got a tiny tiny flame going and torched it until it started to change. not the best job i've done, but not the worst, i have only heat treated a few pieces of SS and before this they were all drip tips
Pretty cool. I wouldn't mind trying the whole thing in that type of finish. Like the Ken Onion knives with the rainbow treatment.
My memory isn't that great, but I thought I read somewhere about the gg button was bigger than the iseason or the ea mod. But anyway I was lead to the gg thread on magnetic button replacement and someone made a video on how to replace the spring with magnets. More importantly there was a link to where the magnets were purchased. Don't know what size would be needed since I don't have an iSeason yet but I think that would be a graet place to start. Now I might be repeating something that was already said here, but I couldn't find the post. Site for the magnets: D6-3.5x2mm N38 NiCuNi Plated Ring Magnet - Rings - Magnet Shapes
Sorry, I'm not sure where the post is that you're looking for.
I can get you some measurements from the iSeason switch when I get home if that will help.
A friend of mine was saying in our little Vape Chat last night suggested finding a brass bolt that would fit and then drilling out the side of the tube for side ventilation instead of bottom. If I knew his name on ECF I'd give him more credit but it escapes me at the moment. If your reading this and you know who you are speak up lol.
Ok serious. Staircase you know I've been active in this thread since it started and since we did our "seat of the pants test " but I had to add this
I had some time today and decided to test .
When fired with fresh 18350 battery
At the connection I'm getting 4.0v
When I put my aga-t on and measure at the coils I'm at 3.89. So that is a .11 drop in voltage under load - so what's the problem here ? Lol
I tested again and got 3.7 - 3.75 and 3.8 respectively
That sounds fine to me ?!! Unless I'm doing something wrong but some of you guys are reporting a 1 volt drop which means you're vaping at 3v ? My numbers didn't show that and I tested several times so what am I missing ?
FYI this is a bone stock untouched iseason
I had some time today and decided to test .
When fired with fresh 18350 battery
At the connection I'm getting 4.0v
When I put my aga-t on and measure at the coils I'm at 3.89. So that is a .11 drop in voltage under load - so what's the problem here ? Lol
I tested again and got 3.7 - 3.75 and 3.8 respectively
That sounds fine to me ?!! Unless I'm doing something wrong but some of you guys are reporting a 1 volt drop which means you're vaping at 3v ? My numbers didn't show that and I tested several times so what am I missing ?
FYI this is a bone stock untouched iseason
The hole seems to be 7mm, not a common bolt/screw size, but a 5/16-18 bolt threads in about 3/4-turn, which should be plenty of contact, and it's good firm contact. I'll have to pick up some brass bolts next time I'm there although I don't know if they have them in 5/16". Brass threaded rod is also another option. I can have it made at a local place in whatever diameter/thread/pitch I want.
The silver-coated copper springs seem like a better option at the moment. I have one on the way from the very generous Datalux. Should be even more conductive than the brass bolt option. I'll report here when I try it.
I'm not sure. My numbers weren't that low until I modded it.
Are you testing with a coil in place? What is the resistance of the coil? Are you measuring at positive post and negative screw on the AGA?
Don't test the battery voltage in the mod. Test it first outside the mod for true unloaded voltage (probes on positive and negative of battery), although it doesn't matter much -- when I test unloaded voltage at the 510 connection, I get identical voltage to the bare battery voltage. It just helps make the test consistent when you test the battery "bare".
Is your spring the same as mine? Mine is like black carbon steel. I got really nice numbers with a brass spring, and even better with the copper spring. They needed to be heavily stretched to fit the hole though, so the search is on for a better spring fit.
If you're willing to do the "brass-on-brass 18490 mod", you'll see *very small* voltage drop numbers.
Dropped it in the mailbox about an hr. ago so I'm kind of anxious to see your results. However, the results JuniorNA posted look promising for the stock piece. Wonder if there are some variations in manufacturing or connections.
side note: JuniorNA, please change your avatar picture - I can't look at it without thinking George and Star Trek in the same image in my mind.
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I'm using the stock spring that came with it and I tested both in short and long mode.
Coil registered at .9 ohms.
And I had one lead on positive and one on negative and measured from there .
Just did it again and I'm at 3.82 v on a battery that read 4.1 fully charged . Same results with both 350/650 batteries
Thanks again. I'm eager to test it out as well.
Maybe there was some anomaly in my testing. I can do it again with my IGO-L that has a 1.1ohm coil in it to try it again at lower resistance, although that usually increases the voltage drop.
Your numbers are in the "very very good" range on that low-resistance coil.
The batteries in my DMM are dead at the moment -- that happens when you haven't used the meter in 2+ years.
How tight is your spring in the brass tube? Mine is quite loose. If it were tighter, conductivity would be better. Maybe there's manufacturing variations as Datalux said. If your numbers hold true, they're fantastic.
Ill take pics tomorrow.
I need the wife to fire the device while I complete the circuit to do the right testing otherwise I just fumble around like an idiot until I get annoyed and punch a wall .
I was trying other ways to fire and test alone - leaning it on its button while testing but that didn't work so well. I could adjust the fire button screw to keep it firing non stop as soon as it screws in but that's not safe
The spring isn't too loose at all. When I first got it it was so tight that I didn't know the spring loosened to adjust when going from large to mini mode - I had to give it a nice hard turn by hand and then it started to move.
Also a big problem with this device - I did it myself - is that people are unscrewing the bottom with the battery in place which probably messes with connectivity since the spring moves when you do that (staircase taught me that )
I always screw bottom in first then put battery in .
Ill do more tests tomorrow and post pics
I need the wife to fire the device while I complete the circuit to do the right testing otherwise I just fumble around like an idiot until I get annoyed and punch a wall .
I was trying other ways to fire and test alone - leaning it on its button while testing but that didn't work so well. I could adjust the fire button screw to keep it firing non stop as soon as it screws in but that's not safe
The spring isn't too loose at all. When I first got it it was so tight that I didn't know the spring loosened to adjust when going from large to mini mode - I had to give it a nice hard turn by hand and then it started to move.
Also a big problem with this device - I did it myself - is that people are unscrewing the bottom with the battery in place which probably messes with connectivity since the spring moves when you do that (staircase taught me that )
I always screw bottom in first then put battery in .
Ill do more tests tomorrow and post pics
I just used a rubber band to hold the button down... Do it real fast and take your measurement at the atomizer's positive and negative.
Okay, your spring must be slightly different then. Mine is very loose. It threads in and out with a tiny bit of effort. Maybe yours is making much better contact with the brass, which would increase the conductivity of that connection.
I'll know more when I get the spring from Datalux as it should be a very tight fit.
Chuckling thinking of tomorrows pics .... Pushing the fire button with your nose with a DMV lead in each hand
Agreed, and it looks great with the IGO-L as well. I cover the airhole with a rubberband when I carry it in my pocket so it doesn't leak -- it's become my main away-from-home mod.
Chuckling thinking of tomorrows pics .... Pushing the fire button with your nose with a DMV lead in each hand
Agreed, and it looks great with the IGO-L as well. I cover the airhole with a rubberband when I carry it in my pocket so it doesn't leak -- it's become my main away-from-home mod.
Rubber Band Idea is quite Brilliant. I plan on picking up an IGO-L in the coming week. Can't wait to hear your tests with the new spring.
A quick edit, my spring as well is very lose and this may account for the .6-.7v drop I was experiencing with my tests.
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