iSeason Mechanical Mod -- Adam clone w/brass contacts

[StaircaseWit]

I believe OKC also has the iSeason, at least that is where I got mine from. Love this thing so far. Would've liked some better locking nuts though. Mine stripped within the first day of use. Not a deal breaker for me at the price point.

If you mean (as others asked) the locking ring on the switch, it's not stripped. You just need to tighten the switch. Mine was like that when new. Just stick your finger in the bottom and hold the brass part of the switch while turning the stainless portion. It will tighten up and you can re-thread the locking nut onto the sleeve. I put a tiny piece of PTFE thread tape on the end of the brass threads to keep it tight.

Lock rings on mine are just fine.

Also, the entire Iseason tube gets warm if I chain vape.... Not hot, just warm in the hand, and spread throughout the entire mod. Doesn't do this with coils at 1.8 ohms and higher. Normal? Or is this the hi resistance spring showing its ugly face?

Yes, you're likely getting the warm tube from heat from the spring. I modded mine and it never gets warm, even with low-ohm coils.

Get a brass/copper spring from your local hardware store. Mine had several sizes.

 

[dragonet]

I improvised a spring.
I used an electric wire, I think it should be 99% copper, 3 mm in diameter.
Spring does not heat
what do you think?

 

[Datalux]

Yes, you're likely getting the warm tube from heat from the spring. I modded mine and it never gets warm, even with low-ohm coils. Get a brass/copper spring from your local hardware store. Mine had several sizes.

Were you able to find a spring that fits? Also, regarding the "sanding" mod, this allows you to use the 18490 in shorty mode, Yes?? I assume you can still use the 18650's with a spring?

 

[ethebull]

what do you think?

Should perform very well. Not much spring memory in copper so frequent replacement might be needed, but who cares, given the pennies it cost.

 

[StaircaseWit]

I improvised a spring.
I used an electric wire, I think it should be 99% copper, 3 mm in diameter.
Spring does not heat
what do you think?

I think it's brilliant. I've had some issues that prevented me from getting to further modding on this one, so I left it alone for a while, but I had a similar idea with a piece of copper tubing (many sizes are available at hardware stores) used for water/etc.

Your resistance level would be *very* low with that fat copper. How does it hit? Huge improvement would be my guess. Is that 12ga wire?

Were you able to find a spring that fits? Also, regarding the "sanding" mod, this allows you to use the 18490 in shorty mode, Yes?? I assume you can still use the 18650's with a spring?

I found several springs; I modded a copper one to fit very well (just squeezing and twisting with pliers) for 18650s, but I don't often use those.

Yes, the mod I and others did allows you to use 18490s with just the one tube. Makes for a nice compact little unit. I posted an image a page or so back of that size with the RSST atty. I use that combo daily.

And yes, the mod changes the brass tube by only a few mm. You can just re-mount the spring by screwing it into the post to go back to 18650 mode.

 

[dragonet]

@StaircaseWit
the size of wire is Ø 1,7 mm
there is no resistence, 0 ohm
i can used with 18350 and 18650, just roll in or roll out the spring.
good vapor with 0.8~1.2 ohm

@Datalux
one tube with 18490 dont work for me, the battery touches the power button

 

[Xylocaine]

Did you just thread the wire into the threading of the tube to shape it?

Also whats the voltage drop your getting?

 

[Datalux]

Forgot to post an image of the RSST on the iSeason. It looks like a hybrid it matches so well. Outside diameter is perfect (as it would be on most 22mm mods) and the brushed finish is pretty much identical (I left the included drip tip on it for these images):

Is that a silica wick in there??

 

[dragonet]

Did you just thread the wire into the threading of the tube to shape it?

Also whats the voltage drop your getting?

I did like to make a coil.
but need to use pliers to get a better grip and better able to shape the spring.
do not have much practice in manual work, but even that was pretty simple.
By coincidence, the screwdriver length equals the length of the spring.
this spring that appears in the photo was the first attempt and was small

I only have a multimeter.
measuring the battery voltage and measuring mod fired, the voltage is the same.
I do not know if it is right to measure

 

[Xylocaine]

I did like to make a coil.
but need to use pliers to get a better grip and better able to shape the spring.
do not have much practice in manual work, but even that was pretty simple.
By coincidence, the screwdriver length equals the length of the spring.
this spring that appears in the photo was the first attempt and was small

I only have a multimeter.
measuring the battery voltage and measuring mod fired, the voltage is the same.
I do not know if it is right to measure

When your measuring with your multimeter do you have an atomizer on it such as an iGo-L or Phoenix and touching the leads to the positive and negative post when you fire?

 

[StaircaseWit]

Is that a silica wick in there??

Sure is. Doubled-over 3mm German silica from RTD vapor. I love that stuff. You just have to make sure your coil is small and low to the deck (the juice only rises so far in this setup). I used that one for about a week before replacing it with mesh because I wanted to see how easy it is to set up the rsst. Nice atty; I'm using it every day now.

 

[dragonet]

humm, I tested like you said
multimeter on battery, 3,86 v
multimeter on atty 3,34 v
atty with 1,6 ohm
what do you think?

 

[Xylocaine]

0.52 Voltage Drop. That seems like a high voltage drop for a 1.6 ohm coil. I just re-wrapped my iGo-L and my AGA T+ at 1.2ohms and even with my brass bolt modification I'm seeing about the same voltage drop on my iGo-L and then a full 1-1.05v drop on my AGA T+ (although even with just a few wraps its making clouds). I admit this is an improvement over the stock spring which I threw on and got about a 1.3-1.4v drop with the AGA T+. I kind of just want to save up and buy a GG or a Caravela even though I'd be looking at months of waiting for a chance at one. Very depressing today

On another note does anyone have an in-line tester to see if we're just seeing a voltage drop at the atomizer (and thus the connection between the device and the atomizer) or if there is something in the device itself? I was really considering a GG or the like and noticed that when you take apart a GG (via the diagrams they've provided) there is almost no difference between the iSeason and the GG except the GG has a brass spring that extends out from the negative post to a more encompassing contact with the battery.

 

[dragonet]

Do you thing a gg dont have a voltage drop? I dont thing so.
This drop is about of the atty that you used. I think.
But i like mech mods, i waiting a natural and last night i buy a korean mod, very expensive btw..urgg

Enviado de meu GT-S6802B usando o Tapatalk 2

 

[StaircaseWit]

0.52 Voltage Drop. That seems like a high voltage drop for a 1.6 ohm coil. I just re-wrapped my iGo-L and my AGA T+ at 1.2ohms and even with my brass bolt modification I'm seeing about the same voltage drop on my iGo-L and then a full 1-1.05v drop on my AGA T+ (although even with just a few wraps its making clouds).

I see actual drop of 0.19V - 0.23V with an AGA-T2 (measured with the probes on the negative screw and positive post) depending on the coil, but that's with my 18490 brass-to-brass mod. It's about 0.5V with my copper spring, so on par with dragonet's numbers.

Not all luxury mods are even designed for minimum resistance. Many use hot springs and have considerable voltage drops, so that's not always the answer.

I need one of those inline testers but never see them in stock when I'm placing an order.

 

[Xylocaine]

Yeah I came to the conclusion that (after much soul searching and research) even 'Luxury' mods have voltage drops and in some cases really terrible voltage drops. I have just re-tested my AGA T+ now that its all had time to break in/oxidize/what have you. 0.71v drop with a 1.2 ohm coil. Now I'm more curious then ever if this is just a normal voltage drop for a lower-ohm coil... I just ordered 100ft of 28ga kanthal for 10$ so I can only imagine when I get down to 0.6-0.8 it will jump even higher. Madvapes has an in-line volt meter but yeah its out of stock.

If its possible can anyone give me the measurements i would need for the switch to start looking for magnets to replace the spring in the switch? I youtubed a video about replacing them in a GG and seems easy enough and the magnets seem cheap enough.

Any thoughts about silver paste the kind used to mount CPUs etc? Just placing a dab on the positive battery post and the 510 connector?

 

[StaircaseWit]

0.52 Voltage Drop. That seems like a high voltage drop for a 1.6 ohm coil. I just re-wrapped my iGo-L and my AGA T+ at 1.2ohms and even with my brass bolt modification I'm seeing about the same voltage drop on my iGo-L and then a full 1-1.05v drop on my AGA T+

I don't remember seeing pics of your brass bolt mod. Did you post images here? (Sorry I was out of the loop for about a week). I have a feeling it's not making good contact somewhere because those drops are too large for brass-to-brass.

 

[Xylocaine]

This is a re-post of two of the most prominent pictures. Its a brass bolt drilled down the center and then 3 brass washers and 1 copper washer that have been modified to fit. I'm getting about a 0.7-0.8v drop on my AGA Tiamat + now that its broken in to some degree. I just re-tested my iGo-L an reading between 0.3 - 0.4v drop. I do notice that the drop range seems to vary from firing to firing which makes me really want to get rid of the spring and get magnets in there for a bit more reliable contact (I notice sometimes one part of the button gets pressed down more than the other side)

Went to the hardware store, forgot my wallet... I was really excited to start making my own spring for this damn thing.

Also I noticed COV has GG Replacement parts like the spring... no actual specifications on it but I'm wondering if it would make a good/cheap replacement considering its 1.24$ for it and its a brass spring that spirals out to make more contact with the battery.

On that note I'd really love to replace the middle piece with a brass tube from the GGTS and replace the head connection altogether with a GG Stealth. Honestly the only thing I really see different between the GGTS (excluding the adjustable vent cap) is the way the head is composed which is just an insulated pin/post instead of press fitted brass in delrin plastic.

 

[StaircaseWit]

I wonder if that's making good contact, being that it's a round-head screw. Do you have the ability to sand it flat? Is it making good contact at the tube (is it threading in, or just sitting on the tube)?

I'm trying to figure out why your drop is so large when mine's so small with just the brass tube. I don't think the switch is a major factor because the drop is so small on mine. I keep meaning to test the RSST with it but keep forgetting. I'll get to it soon.

That spring at COV looks interesting. Next time I order from them I'll get it and see if it works.

 

[Xylocaine]

I actually don't have any sand paper but the screw has been sanded down a bit to make better contact. It doesn't actually thread in (I was hoping to make it to home depot today and start the search but... forgot my wallet at the house so no luck) it just sits on top of the washers for spacing. I was thinking about sanding it a little flatter. I think I might be able to pop to home depot on wednesday when I do my running around to pick up some electrical wire to make my own spring and also check out bolts and what not.

I went ahead and just ordered the switch spring and the axis spring it was like 6$ with shipping so whatever. I'll report in as soon as I get it.