iSeason Mechanical Mod -- Adam clone w/brass contacts
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Those of you who were interested in knowing about the GG Springs - The axis spring is way too tiny and as I just woke up to thunderstorms, tornadoes and bears oh my! I haven't bothered to try the button spring on the iSeason switch.
If you have a multimeter then test the battery to see what voltage it is at if its at something like 3.2v I would probably not use it. I'm not entirely sure where your short is but it sounds like your iSeason is grounding out at the switch if that is what getting hot. I would take it apart and clean it to check.
If you have a multimeter then test the battery to see what voltage it is at if its at something like 3.2v I would probably not use it. I'm not entirely sure where your short is but it sounds like your iSeason is grounding out at the switch if that is what getting hot. I would take it apart and clean it to check.
I can't find much information on the conductivity of magnets oddly enough. They are used commonly as battery spacers, so I'd imagine they conduct well, but google isn't helping me out on this one.
I have been using neodymium magnets in some of my mods, they work as well as my gold plated copper spring, maybe slightly inferior. But a sping allows you some wiggle room in terms of wick positioning so i prefer that.
Whats the voltage drop difference or is this as we say 'seat of your pants' testing?
I tested on my Drawtube between gold spring and stacked magnets and get virtually same voltage. But i was getting 0.02 volt drop on my drawtube (measured between post and tob surface without load) so i wonderif my testing method is accurate?
Someone before was having trouble with a short and the button getting hot - I actually had this happen recently. It is by no fault of the iSeason the wire I had wrapped around one of the screws in my Phoenix clone had come undone (but the other was secure). I popped the wire back on and went from no vapor and hot button to back to normal. Hope this helps!
Seems like this thread is dead - On a side note to this I had the whole button short again and found that the connection post in my Phoenix had gotten recessed I pushed down the negative/positive posts to get it flush with the connector again and it seems to have fixed the problem. Again doesn't seem to be an iSeason thing just an atomizer thing. I think the MKB-TS killed the iSeason 
Seems like this thread is dead - On a side note to this I had the whole button short again and found that the connection post in my Phoenix had gotten recessed I pushed down the negative/positive posts to get it flush with the connector again and it seems to have fixed the problem. Again doesn't seem to be an iSeason thing just an atomizer thing. I think the MKB-TS killed the iSeason
Yeah, there was a co-op but I heard a lot of people pulled out due to our reporting our voltage drop numbers in this thread. It's a bit of a shame because with a little modding it's a great mod. The switch is far superior to the switch in the Natural; it's got a flat top with air slots so it works equally well with gennies or devices that need the slots.
I still use mine, mainly on the weekend with my RSST when I might consume a few adult beverages and need the stronger vape. It hits as well as anything in the 18490 brass-to-brass mode.
Oh and it's unlikely anything is permanently wrong with yours. It's all modular. Push the pin back in from the bottom if it's too recessed.
I’ve only had mine for a couple of days now, but I’m finding it to be very enjoyable to use. Love the switch – I borrowed a Natural from a friend, and didn’t care for the stiffness and throw of the Natural’s switch. The iSeason switch is much more comfortable to use. Build quality is very nice and solid. And, I have to say, I (sort of, kind of) even like the beauty rings (got them in red).
I haven’t modified mine as of yet to deal with the spring issue, but out of the box it’s performing fine with a 1.7 ohm carto tank. I’ll deal with the spring issue before my RSST arrives.
A question in terms of the spring: there’s some silver-coated beryllium copper springs with the measurements of .228" OD x .036" Wire Size x 0.860" Free Length on Amazon for only $7 for a pack of 10. I know the iSeason spring has an OD of 0.300. I was thinking of getting a pack and seeing if I can stretch out the spring diameter to fit. Think it would work?
Silver-Coated Beryllium Copper Compression Spring .228" OD x .036" Wire Size x 0.860" Free Length (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
There are some 0.300 diameter springs, but they are $23+ for a pack of 10.
I haven’t modified mine as of yet to deal with the spring issue, but out of the box it’s performing fine with a 1.7 ohm carto tank. I’ll deal with the spring issue before my RSST arrives.
A question in terms of the spring: there’s some silver-coated beryllium copper springs with the measurements of .228" OD x .036" Wire Size x 0.860" Free Length on Amazon for only $7 for a pack of 10. I know the iSeason spring has an OD of 0.300. I was thinking of getting a pack and seeing if I can stretch out the spring diameter to fit. Think it would work?
Silver-Coated Beryllium Copper Compression Spring .228" OD x .036" Wire Size x 0.860" Free Length (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
There are some 0.300 diameter springs, but they are $23+ for a pack of 10.
I know a few people bought similar springs and just stretched them out. Yeah I agree about the beauty rings - I got the blue. I love my iSeason its my all-the-time mod. I grant you I'm saving up for a Genuine Golden Greek but the potential for the iSeason is so huge if only more people would give it a go. The MKB-TS is going to have the same exact issue as it has the same exact spring but people will get it because its a GG Clone and pass on the iSeason entirely.
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Bought mine used from a previous contributor to this thread (thank u kind sir), for a price I couldn't refuse. Thought it'd be a nice mod to play around with occasionally, couldn't have been more wrong. It's in my hand all day long! It's still stock, need to get around and mod it, but since I don't have any 490 batteries haven't gone that route yet. Saw a post somewhere on the forum discussing another mod with a very similar spring, the user simply put a brass flat head screw inside the spring that had a tight fit, seemed to be an interesting mod that when correctly adjusted, gave brass to brass contact inside the tube when compressed, had tight spring compression against the battery, and was adjustable for different battery sizes. I've noticed my spring is nearly all the way out in 350 mode, otherwise the battery rattles, so this would be a fix for that too. MUST get over to the hardware store and mod it up this week!!!
I saw that too and meant to get to the hardware -- and then when I was there I was too worried about finding another spring to replace the switch spring on another mod and forgot to look at the brass machine screws!
I'll take a look next time I'm over there. He has a huge selection of brass screws in an upstairs room so I'm sure he has something that will fit. And agreed, that person is brilliant for figuring out you can just let the screw float in the spring. I was trying to find one that fit the post for a while, but I've been using it in 18490 mode and been happy so I haven't played with it in a while.
If it works, and I agree a floating screw is brilliant, it will block the iseasons air vent which is inadequate imho anyway. I came very close to a battery vent last week when I dozed off & it dropped between me and the couch cushion with the button engaged. The iseason was so hot it melted the viva I had on it. Time to chuck it on the drill press and copy the original vents:
Yeah, I think about that with my current direct-battery-contact on the tube: the venting is essentially blocked. I thought about drilling some holes in the top "drip well" since it never sees any juice with a genny, but 22mm mods sit more or less flush. The bottom is probably a better idea. If I get some time this weekend I'll revisit modding this thing. I've been busy with another mod (it's a tiny 14500 mod that I adore).
Hmmmm. Think I ran across something in my tool junkbox worth sharing.....
This is the female end of a connector bolt used in cheap particle board furniture & bookcases, available at most hardware stores. I screwed the stock spring onto it, fits perfectly in length & width .... if anything, a little too tight as I needed an allen wrench to screw it back into the brass tube. Can be easily adjusted to whatever battery size (pictured is how I use it with 350s).
I don't have any way to measure drop before and after unfortunately, but it HAS to be better than the stock spring as its making solid contact!! The one I have is chrome plate, I've also seen them in brass .... need to go shopping. When inserting the modded end piece back into the mod, need to tilt it just a little to bypass the switch assembly, but easily goes in.
Of course blocks the vent hole, but I'll be drilling 3 new vents in the end piece anyway.
This is the female end of a connector bolt used in cheap particle board furniture & bookcases, available at most hardware stores. I screwed the stock spring onto it, fits perfectly in length & width .... if anything, a little too tight as I needed an allen wrench to screw it back into the brass tube. Can be easily adjusted to whatever battery size (pictured is how I use it with 350s).
I don't have any way to measure drop before and after unfortunately, but it HAS to be better than the stock spring as its making solid contact!! The one I have is chrome plate, I've also seen them in brass .... need to go shopping. When inserting the modded end piece back into the mod, need to tilt it just a little to bypass the switch assembly, but easily goes in.
Of course blocks the vent hole, but I'll be drilling 3 new vents in the end piece anyway.
Good tip Light Seeker. I'll have to see if I can find some of those in the junk bin -- there always seems to be pieces left over whenever I put RTA items together!
But before I start working on modifying or replacing the spring, I wanted to make sure I’m calculating voltage drop properly.
I took a battery fresh out of the charger. I put it into the iSeason and, using a screw-on inline meter and no atty attached, it read 4.19. I then put on a 1.74 ohm atty, and it reads 3.70 when firing. So, I have a 0.49 drop, correct?
As a comparison, I did the same test with my Smok telescope using the same battery and atty. It read 4.19 unloaded and 4.01 under load for a drop of 0.18.
Am I doing this correctly or is there a formula that needs to be used to factor in the resistance of the attached device?
But before I start working on modifying or replacing the spring, I wanted to make sure I’m calculating voltage drop properly.
I took a battery fresh out of the charger. I put it into the iSeason and, using a screw-on inline meter and no atty attached, it read 4.19. I then put on a 1.74 ohm atty, and it reads 3.70 when firing. So, I have a 0.49 drop, correct?
As a comparison, I did the same test with my Smok telescope using the same battery and atty. It read 4.19 unloaded and 4.01 under load for a drop of 0.18.
Am I doing this correctly or is there a formula that needs to be used to factor in the resistance of the attached device?
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Sounds right. Most have been doing a dvm reading across the coil screws on a rba, but an in line works too!
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