Issue with the new 510s?

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chohan

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Well mates, while we're on the subject of reverse threaded...

I just aquired an awesome new black wrinkle / w sl door past Monday and while reading over that instruction sheet that was enclosed it mentioned turning it counter-clockwise to raise the post. However I actually have to turn it clockwise to raise the post higher towards the atty.

Is this the reverse threading you refer to?

All my other reos have the older non-adjustable 510's so excuse my ignorance on the subject.
 

Papa_Lazarou

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Well mates, while we're on the subject of reverse threaded...

I just aquired an awesome new black wrinkle / w sl door past Monday and while reading over that instruction sheet that was enclosed it mentioned turning it counter-clockwise to raise the post. However I actually have to turn it clockwise to raise the post higher towards the atty.

Is this the reverse threading you refer to?

All my other reos have the older non-adjustable 510's so excuse my ignorance on the subject.

Yes, the reverse threading is on the adjustment pin of the 510 - clockwise backs it out, counter clockwise screws it in (righty loosey, lefty tighty).
 

Debadoo

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Yes, I do give a good puff of air to the coil while it's glowing. I'm going to leave my attie attached next dry burn and rinse it like you suggest. I keep forgetting that these things are not just OK to rinse, but that is the recommended maintenance :)

I have rinsed mine on the mod as well......but the thing I have hard time wrapping my head around is blowing on a hot coil. I dry burned so many vivi novas back in the day and doing that could pop a coil cuz of the much thinner wire. gotta get used to being able to do that.

I do want to send my mini in at some point for upgraded everything. got a lot of stuff to get before I can that though.
 

Stringer63

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I have rinsed mine on the mod as well......but the thing I have hard time wrapping my head around is blowing on a hot coil. I dry burned so many vivi novas back in the day and doing that could pop a coil cuz of the much thinner wire. gotta get used to being able to do that.

I do want to send my mini in at some point for upgraded everything. got a lot of stuff to get before I can that though.

I fire it to a good glow and then release the button and quickly blow on it. Do that 2 or 3 times and its good to go.
 

CMD-Ky

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I fire it to a good glow and then release the button and quickly blow on it. Do that 2 or 3 times and its good to go.

I agree, I do that with my burn, too. I try to do this with a lower battery charge, I can't justify this low battery practice but it seems like a good idea - little longer cooler burn and I hope my wire lasts longer. I don't know if this is correct but I try never to let a lack of facts slow me down.
 

super_X_drifter

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Tony, tightening it with the top off the atty is money. Good and tight. You can't accomplish this with the top on the atty. What I do is back the pin on the REO out about 1 turn. Then put my atty base on and screw in all the way. Then unscrew / screw the atty base (don't take it off the mod) until the coil is facing where I want it / em. Once there I tighten it real good and put the cap on.

Bam. Done bro. It ain't gonna be jigglin anymore. :)
 

Sloth Tonight

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Tony, tightening it with the top off the atty is money. Good and tight. You can't accomplish this with the top on the atty. What I do is back the pin on the REO out about 1 turn. Then put my atty base on and screw in all the way. Then unscrew / screw the atty base (don't take it off the mod) until the coil is facing where I want it / em. Once there I tighten it real good and put the cap on.

Bam. Done bro. It ain't gonna be jigglin anymore. :)

Do you have to re-adjust everytime you mount your atty bro? Seems like it always turns it in a notch further when screwing down that first time. Maybe I'm wrong though, haven't unmounted/mounted much with the new connectors yet.
 

super_X_drifter

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Do you have to re-adjust everytime you mount your atty bro? Seems like it always turns it in a notch further when screwing down that first time. Maybe I'm wrong though, haven't unmounted/mounted much with the new connectors yet.

With the new reverse threaded one, turning the atty in does not turn the screw in. But yes, when you unscrew the atty it turns the screw in, so you will have to readjust every time you remove the atty :)
 

supertrunker

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Russ: So you sort of use the atty base as a makeshift wrench to bring the center post up unitl it's tight?

Let's think for one moment how that would physically occur shall we.

An atty that tightens one way (down and clockwise) is supposed to magically make a screw threaded the other way rise up to meet it.

I'd also like to include another element - the centre of the atty may also unscrew to make a connection.

:)

T
 

Spydro

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Its stands to reason when you remove your atomizer the set screw is going to move there is nothing one can do about this . This 510 connection is awesome folks I cant see it getting any better . You have to tighten the atty down a little if you want it to stay in place not wrench it down but apply a little pressure if you want it to stay in place . Yeah you may have to adjust your atty when you put it on again but how many times does one change the same atty . If you use a multimeter to check your ohms like you should be doing there is no reason to remove it in the first place unless your cleaning the juice well .

I see your point Rob, but we don't all do things the same way, or have the same vaping style. There are several reasons why I have taken an atty off a Reo then re install it on the same Reo, sometimes quite often. That has never been an issue at all doing it with any of the Reos with the old 510's/o-rings. Now I choose to do a special purpose use on just the new LP/SL Grand with a specific atty for specific reasons, so it's atty is on and off and on often. My choice so I deal with the new 510 on it often. ;)
 

Sloth Tonight

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I see your point Rob, but we don't all do things the same way, or have the same vaping style. There are several reasons why I have taken an atty off a Reo then re install it on the same Reo, sometimes quite often. That has never been an issue at all doing it with any of the Reos with the old 510's/o-rings. Now I choose to do a special purpose use on just the new LP/SL Grand with a specific atty for specific reasons, so it's atty is on and off and on often. My choice so I deal with the new 510 on it often. ;)

Sure - I remove mine frequently as well. Huge bummer in the new 510 honestly...I'm not the biggest fan. Almost wish I hadn't sent in my last for mod for the upgrade. I didn't even need an o-ring before, now I have to readjust and carry a tool around with me :facepalm:

Not being negative about Rob's work, but this new 510 isn't my favorite thing in the porky world to say the least.

edit - I'm asking because I'm sincerely curious. A lot of mods have spring loaded 510s these days, so I hear. It sounds like a phenomenal idea but I'm an ignoramous about such things. Was spring loaded considered, and why was it chosen against?
 
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super_X_drifter

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Russ: So you sort of use the atty base as a makeshift wrench to bring the center post up unitl it's tight?

Its the opposite. The screw is reverse threaded so when you unscrew it the screw goes down. So yes, the atty base is the wrench :). It works well. Rob does it the same way. :)
 
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super_X_drifter

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Let's think for one moment how that would physically occur shall we.

An atty that tightens one way (down and clockwise) is supposed to magically make a screw threaded the other way rise up to meet it.

I'd also like to include another element - the centre of the atty may also unscrew to make a connection.

:)

T

Lets elaborate for a moment on how that DOES occur :)

The screw is reverse threaded. When you put an atty on it stops at the screw. The screw will not go in any further cause it's reverse threaded. The small amount of friction between the 510 post on your atty and the screw will loosen (screw in) a very small amount when you unscrew the atty. One needs to only screw / unscrew until the screw (and your coil(s)) are where you want them.

Yes, I hear you on being able to adjust the positive pin on an atty but that will in many cases change the orientation of the wire capture holes in it.

The REO screw can be adjusted in or out with the tool but I just find it easier to do by backing the REO screw out about 1/2 to 1 full turn using the tool then using the atty base to do the rest.

Oh, I got no worries about it turning the positive post on the attys I run. I don't run any attys with weak / loose centerposts :)
 
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