iStick 20watt + 1.2ohm at lowest setting, burnt taste

[xCyanideee]

My setup - iStick 30w with protank 3 1.2ohm atty

I'm pretty new to the VV scene. I have been using the 1.5ohm coils with no issue. I recently bought some 1.2 coils, vaping at 7.5w, however it tastes burst especially after the first 2-4 drags. Is this because the juice channels are not re-satuerating the cotton quick enough due to the lower ohm?

Also I read that the iStick fires a lot lots higher than displayed due to how it works compared with other on the market ?

My third question is why is my minimum voltage 7.5 with a 1.2 ohm coil but it can go lower on my 1.5. What determines the minimun?


Sorry if asking three questions in one thread is bad for forum etiquette, I'm new forums too megga nooob

 

[Cloudmann]

Yep. Dry hits. The coils in the Protank can't keep up with your wattage (wicking the juice, specifically).

Insofar as the wattage bottoming at 7.5, look up Ohm's law. Lower resistance equals higher wattage if voltage is the same. You'll only be able to go so low with a lower resistance.

Really, that mod was made for a more powerful tank... you're pushing the tank (well, the coil, specifically) a bit too hard.

All of that being said, the Protank actually performs better for most folks at a higher resistance. Don't get wrapped up in lower resistance coils. Low resistance only works if the coil and tank can handle the load going through them... as is the case with Subohm tanks.

 

[v1k1ng1001]

You might want to consider upgrading to a modern tank designed for higher wattages or making the transition to rebuildables.

 

[tj99959]

The iStick 20 does not have "step down", and it's also calibrated in "mean" rather than in RMS.

Put a 2.2-2.4 ohm coil in your Protank, and then that little iStick will work just fine.

OH, and don't get hung up on 20 watts, there's a reason that it has a down button.

 

[r77r7r]

He has 20 and 30 written up there...

 

[doofy666]

Is your istick 20w or 30w?

The 20w will not adjust power to lower than the battery voltage, which in the case of a fully charged battery means 4.2.

Go here Watts - volts - amps - ohms conversion calculator and input 4.2 for volts and the relevant ohms to see the true wattage delivered as opposed to the wattage on your isticks display. This could explain why you are getting burnt hits.

If you have a istick 30, disregard the above.

 

[Completely Average]

Is your istick 20w or 30w?

The 20w will not adjust power to lower than the battery voltage, which in the case of a fully charged battery means 4.2.

Go here Watts - volts - amps - ohms conversion calculator and input 4.2 for volts and the relevant ohms to see the true wattage delivered as opposed to the wattage on your isticks display. This could explain why you are getting burnt hits.

If you have a istick 30, disregard the above.

This is correct. With a fully charged battery and a 1.2ohm coil the iStick 20W will fire at a minimum of 14.7W. It cannot step-down the voltage so it's going to fire at whatever the battery charge is if you select a watts setting that results in a lower voltage than the battery charge.


The second part of the equation is that the Protank cannot wick fast enough for a 14.7W current. That's why you're getting burnt hits. The same wattage would be fine on something like the Nautilus or a subtank that's designed for that type of wattage, but not the Protank.