I sanded my ring to fit Aqua and Steam Turbine:
Very nice. I'm thinking about ordering an Aqua for mine. What did you use to sand down the ring? This would be perfect because I don't want to cut the ring off completely.
iTaste VTR modding/teardown?
- Thread starter Kyle Chamberlain
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Very nice. I'm thinking about ordering an Aqua for mine. What did you use to sand down the ring? This would be perfect because I don't want to cut the ring off completely.
I used a dremel with drum sander on mine. Used 4 sanding drums because the metal is so soft...
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Custom vtr extension...
Two ego adaptors and a shorty 510 extension. With an ego beauty ring thrown in for the neck of it.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Two ego adaptors and a shorty 510 extension. With an ego beauty ring thrown in for the neck of it.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Hi guys, I have a problem with the Wheel connection on my VTR, it FEELS like I stripped the threads inside the wheel, as my 3 iClear 30s just spin, if I hold them down they fire, just isn't very practical. Any tricks or tips to replace the Wheel, or fix my existing problem. This is my only way of vaping, so returning to supplier is not an option!!
Very informing thread thank for all the pictures!! Thinking about putting a DNA 30 in mine only problems I can see now is the pot that the VTR uses looks like it is attached to the board deep in the device with a post sticking up for the wheel to fit onto, I was hoping it would be mounted to the top part so I could use it for the DNA 30, and the screen on the DNA 30 is 1.034 inches wide (by my calculations derived from the data sheet) and I dont know if that will fit in the two way mirror portion of the VTR.
keepitgoin there is a new version of the VTR that does not have the spinning 510 connection as it was causing problems like you are experiencing I know this doesn't help you right now but if you could return it to the seller and buy the new version you will never have problems with it again!!
keepitgoin there is a new version of the VTR that does not have the spinning 510 connection as it was causing problems like you are experiencing I know this doesn't help you right now but if you could return it to the seller and buy the new version you will never have problems with it again!!
Anyone pulled the connector off of one of these? I got one with the spinning connector an plan on trying to replace it if it's relatively easy to get the old one off.
Great thread and good photos!
What happens when juice comes out of a leaky Atty and goes down the connector? Where does it go? How do you get it out?
What happens when juice comes out of a leaky Atty and goes down the connector? Where does it go? How do you get it out?
I have the version with the spinning connector...the fixed connector may be different. It looks like any juice would be trapped in the connector and can just be wiped out. A more major leak could potentially get under the larger ring and work its way into the internal connector housing and maybe inside the unit. I would think if it was really bad you could use a contact cleaner spray. I just don't know what kind of residue that would leave.
Mine also has the threads worn out on the "spinning connector"!
I want to remove the connector,and replace it with another one,but can't find out how to get the orginal one out?
I want to remove the connector,and replace it with another one,but can't find out how to get the orginal one out?
After e/mailing Innokin,and not getting any response,I knew I was going to have to fix it myself! I found a adapter,and it also slipped when threaded into the base? I used some JB Weld and sparingly applied it around the threads of the adapter. Then litterly pushed it down into the base. I used a C clamp to hold it in position,until the JB Weld cured. I trimmed the excess off around the base,and applied a beauty ring from a Kanger Pro Tank II. It's back in business again,and the draw actually seems better now! The tank sits higher (1/2 inch) but it really doesn't hurt anything.
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I found a adapter,and it also slipped when threaded into the base? I used some JB Weld and sparingly applied it around the threads of the adapter. Then litterly pushed it down into the base. I used a C clamp to hold it in position,until the JB Weld cured. I trimmed the excess off around the base,and applied a beauty ring from a Kanger Pro Tank II. It's back in business again,and the draw actually seems better now! The tank sits higher (1/2 inch) but it really doesn't hurt anything.
After e/mailing Innokin,and not getting any response,I knew I was going to have to fix it myself!
Good pics! Great fix!
After e/mailing Innokin,and not getting any response,I knew I was going to have to fix it myself!
Thanks!
I have the same problem and like this fix. I also have the parts to do it.
After e/mailing Innokin,and not getting any response,I knew I was going to have to fix it myself!
This encouraged me to look for a solution BEFORE the threads went bad AND I already had a 510-eGo adapter. It will let fluid through to the VTR connection and make it difficult to clean and with the threads still good didn't need to use JBWeld.
I found a generic Air Flow Controller that doesn't have the HOLE to let liquid leak through.
All my attys love it and some even benefit from the ability to adjust the air flow.
Double Post !!!
Here is my VTR with the generic airflow controller attached: Showing an IClear 30S and a ProtankII w/kanger airflow base
Here is my VTR with the generic airflow controller attached: Showing an IClear 30S and a ProtankII w/kanger airflow base
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I ordered a chi you flat top cap to replace the VTR connection, I will post when complete. I have mine completely tore apart and getting ready to drop a DNA 30 in it and hoping to still use the stock buttons on the VTR. Going to start dremeling room for the DNA board in next couple days!
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