It's not hot here , I'm on the coast
About 0.8 ohms, hcigar
These macros are always telling, that back post, I almost missed getting the Nichrome under the nut, hey I am old, fixed now.
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It's happened, the AQUA has been CLONED
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About 0.8 ohms, hcigar
These macros are always telling, that back post, I almost missed getting the Nichrome under the nut, hey I am old, fixed now.
My single coil 1.2 ohm Aqua is still vaping great. I was running low on my fav juices so I used 10 mg yesterday; felt strong as 32 mg in a cigalike. I managed to vape down most of the 10 mg and topped it off w/ 80% VG today; it is still wicking the thick stuff.
It's the $20 FT in a short black tooth paste like box, got two of them, had two real ones, these are 'bout as good
Yea, that's the one I have, minus the boogered up top cap.
Lol, over poured the upside down fill yesterday. It was a bit messy and wasted a couple ml of good juice.
I refilled some this morning with the top method for the suppose of it. Flooded a bit but was gone in like 2 minutes.
Lol, over poured the upside down fill yesterday. It was a bit messy and wasted a couple ml of good juice.
I refilled some this morning with the top method for the suppose of it. Flooded a bit but was gone in like 2 minutes.
You did add an o-ring to the tank top, right? They forgot to include it.
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So you finally got your Aqua initiation
well, it didn't go on my lap. mostly the kitchen table. I was smart enough to catch the rest with my hand as my made my way to the sink.
And no, I didn't replace the missing o ring, or at least, not exactly. I tried using one that came with the device but it was too big. I got the top cap on with one of my left over o rings, but I could not get it off for the life of me. I had to use pliers and a towel (to not mess it up) but you can tell how well that went.
Thanks
unfortunately, I don't think I can purchase said o-ring without driving an hour. turns it into an entire excursion.
that being said, if this shop gets in some castle long reserve, it would be worth the trip again for sure.
really after a chi you like adjustable center pin and a stiffer spring for my HCigar caravela
unfortunately, I don't think I can purchase said o-ring without driving an hour. turns it into an entire excursion.
that being said, if this shop gets in some castle long reserve, it would be worth the trip again for sure.
really after a chi you like adjustable center pin and a stiffer spring for my HCigar caravela
Unless Hcigar are actually making two noticeably different aqua clones the ones from Fasttech are a coming from somewhere different.
Mine came in yesterday and it's definitely not the same as my older Hcigar.
Mine came in yesterday and it's definitely not the same as my older Hcigar.
Do you still have the HCigar version? I'd be interested to see a comparison. Is the Hcigar version better than the FT black box version?
I think the FT BB is better than the Tobeco version (which looks like the other, more expensive FT version).
I like the FT BB so much more than the Tobeco just due to fitment that I'm going to order another.
Are FT BB air intakes holes drilled equal distance from deck air holes. Air travels same distance to both deck holes?
My 101vape aqua air intake holes are drilled equal distance.
The machining and finish is a tad better on the Hcigar one, but the Fasttech one has a lot more open airflow stock which I'm really liking.
It feels like the wick channels are also a big bigger on the Fasttech one but I can't really confirm until I break both down.
Given the fact the Hcigar version is gonna cost most likely near twice as much as the Fasttech version I'd definitely suggest the Fasttech version right now though.
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I should have completely disassembled it when I washed it...but I didn't - I was too excited to just slap in on the the brass Origin that came in the same shipment
FT Brass Origin V2 w/ FT BB Aqua - FT SS Origin V1 w/Tobeco Aqua
Thanks for the info. I'll just order another FT BB.
The airflow seems better than the Tobeco was stock - hard to remember since I drilled it out.
My FT origin is gorgeous.
I've been vaping my origin all day w/ aqua on top.
I can snug up switch pin and batt rattle w/ all my batts and toppers w/ mild tinkering.
Many things to brag about but I'll just mention my two complaints.
The pin threads are much smaller than nemesis M5-0.8 pins. I think they are the same small size as chi you? Have not measure volt drop yet.
The slop between switch post and switch hole is huge. About twice the slop as FT nemesis (which I have complained about). Button feels loose and cheap to the OCD. Switch wobble bugs me but many don't seem to mind.
So I tore down both a Tobeco and FT BB, here's what I found:
The air channels have even distance on the Tobeco, BB one is close and one is far
On the FT BB the three 1 mm o-rings were inside the large insulator on the positive post, they go on the positive post where the post passes through the deck. Unless UVO assembled their's wrong.
Tobeco didn't use any 3 small o-rings.
I really don't see much need for them as the insulator on the positive post on the deck keeps it centered quite well.
I've been thinking about the placement of these little o-rings and while I am not mistaken about their installed location on one of my original Aqua's I believe it was UVO that assembled it wrong.
Without them on the positive post inside that big bottom insulator if juice got into the base, which it will easy enough, it very well would leak into the mod. I shall put my o-rings back where I found them even though I didn't think it really will make any difference.
The air channels have even distance on the Tobeco, BB one is close and one is far
On the FT BB the three 1 mm o-rings were inside the large insulator on the positive post, they go on the positive post where the post passes through the deck. Unless UVO assembled their's wrong.
Tobeco didn't use any 3 small o-rings.
I really don't see much need for them as the insulator on the positive post on the deck keeps it centered quite well.
I've been thinking about the placement of these little o-rings and while I am not mistaken about their installed location on one of my original Aqua's I believe it was UVO that assembled it wrong.
Without them on the positive post inside that big bottom insulator if juice got into the base, which it will easy enough, it very well would leak into the mod. I shall put my o-rings back where I found them even though I didn't think it really will make any difference.
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It's not hot here , I'm on the coast
About 0.8 ohms, Hcigar
These macros are always telling, that back post, I almost missed getting the Nichrome under the nut, hey I am old, fixed now.
Try doing the same build with a single wire. It makes it much easier to adjust when you're trying to get both coils to light up at the same time. Once it's set up and you're dry firing and squeezing the coils pay attention to which coil is lighting up first. Loosen the nut holding the leg that's continuous and move that coil out a smidge. Don't be fooled when you're squeezing you're coil. When they get hot they light up evenly but when it gets completely cool they won't. Here's a pic of how I wrap my single wire duals.
Question for you peeps
I really want to mess with one of these but I'm very concerned about the wobbling issues with the juice control, as juice control will be an absolute must for me
Does it seem correct so far that the HCigar version (seems this walrus character and other on ebay are selling this, maybe the 20.00 fast tech version also) has a stable and functional juice flow control and the Tobeco version perhaps functional but wobbly?
Just want to make sure I'm as up to date as possible before making a decision, been reading in here for a bit.
(Also any info on the EHPro version? They seem to make great stuff. Its all over ebay too, purportedly anyway)
I really want to mess with one of these but I'm very concerned about the wobbling issues with the juice control, as juice control will be an absolute must for me
Does it seem correct so far that the HCigar version (seems this walrus character and other on ebay are selling this, maybe the 20.00 fast tech version also) has a stable and functional juice flow control and the Tobeco version perhaps functional but wobbly?
Just want to make sure I'm as up to date as possible before making a decision, been reading in here for a bit.
(Also any info on the EHPro version? They seem to make great stuff. Its all over ebay too, purportedly anyway)
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