Consider filling the channels on the Aqua with such little wick.
Try it, let us know how it turns out. Would nice to have a fast heating long coil that won't atomize the whole tank in 20 minutes.
It's happened, the AQUA has been CLONED
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Consider filling the channels on the Aqua with such little wick.
Try it, let us know how it turns out. Would nice to have a fast heating long coil that won't atomize the whole tank in 20 minutes.
I just folded ends of skinny wick in my current aqua single coil build. Have dual wicks though coil so they were looking small in channels. Built it a few weeks back and still doing perfect.
I would love to try it but I think I better do some chores now
i just refilled my 5th tank in the aqua.
i found it kinda difficult to build the Dual Coil, wrapping the legs around the posts and securing is what i found annoying.
but it is working splendidly. .7ohm dual MC with rolled cotton, this thing is a beast.
i wish it was 22mm, making it flush on my mod. a clear window would be nice, i dont want to accidentally ignite the cotton!
after reading so many mixed reviews, i am happy i got it. it is out performing my r91%, fogger and drippers, and MAY top out my ithaka and kraken.
i have some wobble, and a tiny bit of juice can get stuck under the driptip. but mostly no leaks unless i forget to tighten the chimney to reduce juice flow. Still, after 5 full fills, i have lost 2 drops outta the airholes.
when i do rebuild, i will follow a similar configuration, just tighten up the coils a bit as they extended a little bit when fastening them down. Ill also shoot for .8ohm
i found it kinda difficult to build the Dual Coil, wrapping the legs around the posts and securing is what i found annoying.
but it is working splendidly. .7ohm dual MC with rolled cotton, this thing is a beast.
i wish it was 22mm, making it flush on my mod. a clear window would be nice, i dont want to accidentally ignite the cotton!
after reading so many mixed reviews, i am happy i got it. it is out performing my r91%, fogger and drippers, and MAY top out my ithaka and kraken.
i have some wobble, and a tiny bit of juice can get stuck under the driptip. but mostly no leaks unless i forget to tighten the chimney to reduce juice flow. Still, after 5 full fills, i have lost 2 drops outta the airholes.
when i do rebuild, i will follow a similar configuration, just tighten up the coils a bit as they extended a little bit when fastening them down. Ill also shoot for .8ohm
I've had 3 coils at .54 or .55 and it's shockingly good. I know I don't like higher and lower in like .4 range seems to singe a bit when chain vaping. 28g 5 wrap micro on each side and I slant both coils
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I am running dual 28g 1.07Ω 1/16" micro coils. I've never had any problems with heat at all. Even on my 1st setup of duals that were .8Ω...
I'm in the loose not all the way down camp
Almost to the bottom of the vertical channels
Almost to the bottom of the vertical channels
I hate to ask this but can you guys post pics of your setups? The amount of effort I been putting into my builds for the R91 and now the Aqua makes me feel incompetent as I cannot get either of them to work after like quadrillion tries. It either wicks too well causing flooding, or slow causing dry hits. I do notice one constant factor though and its that, eventually after so many vapes, I stop getting vapor. Then Ill disassemble the atty and will find it to be either completely saturated or sometimes a bit burnt or on the verge of being burnt. So what is the reason that I stop getting vapor after a while? Its so frustrating that everyone has found a working build and I cannot get ....tt...
If my wicking is off a little the juice control really helps to correct these problems.
if you chamber is screwed down the whole way and you are still flooding then you didn't use enough wicking material
if you chamber is screwed down the whole way and you are still flooding then you didn't use enough wicking material
Everyone has an o-ring on their tank top cap right? A lot of Hcigar and FT models shipped without one.
Sounds like you're using too much cotton. You didn't say what you're wicking with, but if it's cotton, keep in mind that it swells quite a bit. Also the bigger the id of your coil, the more critical it becomes to use a loose wick and set it aside for a few hours to swell up snug.
Silica also swells but very little. A simple test regardless of what you're using is when you take it back apart, try moving the wick in the coil. Naturally it's going to be tighter, but if you have to hook the coil with a fingernail or something to keep it from being pulled out of place, you can probably cut down on your wicking material.
I still do not have an o ring on my top cap but I'm aware it should have came with one
I've been running wick on ruler tests this week and no visible swelling. I tested cotton ball wick and cotton yarn wick. I tested VG and PG. I tested cotton balls and water. My boiled cotton balls shrink (collapse) compared to dry cotton balls under water weight when dumped on strainer.
How did you know your cotton wicks swell?
@ emus, you didn't read my post correctly, I said they work really swell, not swell up.
But they do swell and it's apparent when removing it from a coil especially if too much was used in the first place.
Now for the other side of the coin, I've never seen my beer glass swell from being wet, although not wet for very long periods, so how is fiberglass (silica) going to swell?
But they do swell and it's apparent when removing it from a coil especially if too much was used in the first place.
Now for the other side of the coin, I've never seen my beer glass swell from being wet, although not wet for very long periods, so how is fiberglass (silica) going to swell?
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My cotton balls really don't swell at all.
They come out just as easily as they went in.
They come out just as easily as they went in.
7. CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON
Cotton swells in a high humidity environment, in water and in concentrated solutions of certain acids, salts and bases. The swelling effect is usually attributed to the sorption of highly hydrated ions. The moisture regain for cotton is about 7.1~8.5% and the moisture absorption is 7~8%. [20]
Cotton is attacked by hot dilute or cold concentrated acid solutions. Acid hydrolysis of cellulose produces hydro-celluloses. Cold weak acids do not affect it. The fibers show excellent resistance to alkalis. There are a few other solvents that will dissolve cotton completely. One of them is a copper complex of cupramonium hydroxide and cupriethylene diamine (Schweitzer's reagent [11])
Cotton degradation is usually attributed to oxidation, hydrolysis or both. Oxidation of cellulose can lead to two types of so-called oxy-cellulose [12], depending on the environment, in which the oxidation takes place.
copied and pasted from here: COTTON FIBERS
Note it doesn't mention e liquid though.
Cotton swells in a high humidity environment, in water and in concentrated solutions of certain acids, salts and bases. The swelling effect is usually attributed to the sorption of highly hydrated ions. The moisture regain for cotton is about 7.1~8.5% and the moisture absorption is 7~8%. [20]
Cotton is attacked by hot dilute or cold concentrated acid solutions. Acid hydrolysis of cellulose produces hydro-celluloses. Cold weak acids do not affect it. The fibers show excellent resistance to alkalis. There are a few other solvents that will dissolve cotton completely. One of them is a copper complex of cupramonium hydroxide and cupriethylene diamine (Schweitzer's reagent [11])
Cotton degradation is usually attributed to oxidation, hydrolysis or both. Oxidation of cellulose can lead to two types of so-called oxy-cellulose [12], depending on the environment, in which the oxidation takes place.
copied and pasted from here: COTTON FIBERS
Note it doesn't mention e liquid though.
I went to my local vape shop tonight to have two more intake holes drilled on one of my FT Aqua's but they had closed early to attend a Grand Opening of another shop, tomorrow I guess then.
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