High drain rechargeable battery . Discharge current 35 A . There's a bar code and a scratch off part like a lotto ticket
it's so HOT!
- Thread starter Duncan Foote
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My first mech mod was a cheap clone picked up at the local B&M. It couldn't handle low-ohm builds - would heat up like crazy at 0.3 or below. Button got too hot to touch.
I re-wound the spring in the button using copper wire that I removed from an old piece of coax laying around in the garage. That helped quite a bit. It got a little warm, but not that insane level where I had to set it aside for 20-30 min to cool down. With a multimeter, I found that the resistance in the original button was greater than the resistance in the build, so the heat built up in the button and not in the coil. This led me to making a new spring for the firing button.
I eventually (after 4-6 weeks of use) junked that hunk of metal, and got an IPV3. I prefer regulated - and a good mech mod isn't cheap - more expensive than an IPV3.
I re-wound the spring in the button using copper wire that I removed from an old piece of coax laying around in the garage. That helped quite a bit. It got a little warm, but not that insane level where I had to set it aside for 20-30 min to cool down. With a multimeter, I found that the resistance in the original button was greater than the resistance in the build, so the heat built up in the button and not in the coil. This led me to making a new spring for the firing button.
I eventually (after 4-6 weeks of use) junked that hunk of metal, and got an IPV3. I prefer regulated - and a good mech mod isn't cheap - more expensive than an IPV3.
I had a shop build it for me, I think I'm going to junk it. Bummed bc I did a really nice patina on it, it looks really cool.
That's probably this battery:
purple 18650 2500mAh 35A* (rebranded LG18650HE2 2500mAh 20 amp*)
It's actually a 20 amp battery, but it should work for a 0.3 ohm build (Assuming that's an accurate measurement.) So if the mod/battery are getting hot you have a short or bad connection somewhere. I'd take it back to the store and see what's wrong. If not get an ohm meter and see what's going wrong.
if you can still try it on your coworker's ipv, try bumping the wattage up to ~45 watt (to get around 3.6v) see if it works, because some regulated mods have minimum voltage to work
either way, would suggest you take both your rda and mech back to the shop or someone who knows how to check before using it
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