Joyetech c1 aatomizer use nichrome or kanthal?

[Topwater Elvis]

You can buy any type of wire you want commonly used in vaping & build your own coils, then wick them with cotton or rayon.

Several manufacturers of replacement heads state the type of wire & wicking material used in their product.
Find one that suits your comfort level.

No one has answered your question about ego c, ego c elips, c1 atty's because as far as I'm aware the manufacturer never has stated what type of wire is used, my guess is NiCr, 60 or 80 I have no clue.
You would have to contact them (the manufacturer) to get an accurate answer.
I can easily believe you cant find any info about the atty's you use considering they are at least 3 years outdated.

You are splitting such fine hairs with this one wire type is more "safe" than this other type, that it could only be measured in hundredths of a single percent. .0?%.

Just me,
I don't use nickle (Ni) / (Ni200) because I think it tastes odd, nor do I use titanium (Ti) because I think it produces a slightly harsher vape and has a slight effect on flavor, but, that is all my personal preference it has nothing to do saftey and should in no way influence anyone's personal preference to use them.

NiCr Nichrome which is not the same as Ni (nickle/Ni200) used in temp control comes in 2 forms used in vaping NiCr60 NiCr80.

Kanthal a1 is reliable easy to work with.

Stainless steel, if I were going to hypothesize about the 'safest' wire
(again in hundredths of a single % safer) this would be it.

I suggest upgrading your equipment to something that uses readily available replacements with known quality wire types & wicking material.

 

[Eskie]

And why i'm asking you if C1 atomizer use Khantal or Nichrome for a specific reason...
Not because i want to contiunue with old crappy C1 atomizer heads but because i vape with this system for 3 years without any kind of problems.So if i will find out i vaped 3 years with Nichrome i can feel is pretty safe at least on my body and i don't have to worry about with my Q16 atomizer use nichrome.
But if i vaped 3 years with Kanthal with no problems probably is better i continue to use Kanthal on my system...

Can you help me to find out if ego-c elips-c atomizers c1 used khantal or nichrome please?

In response to your specific reason for asking this question, even if you used nichrome for 3 years and still feel fine, you have not answered the question of long term safety. If you're worried about Ni exposure causing cancer, you'll have to check back in 10 or 20 years, not 2 or 3 to know if it was safe all that time.

 

[eddykoodoo]

In response to your specific reason for asking this question, even if you used nichrome for 3 years and still feel fine, you have not answered the question of long term safety. If you're worried about Ni exposure causing cancer, you'll have to check back in 10 or 20 years, not 2 or 3 to know if it was safe all that time.

I know i'm not talkin about cancer but at least my elips-c style of vaping didn't caused me visible problems and at least is good sign...

But is pretty impossible to find the material of this joyetechs atomizer...

 

[Topwater Elvis]

You will have to contact the manufacturer if you need an accurate answer...

But, I doubt they even know considering the amount of knockoff's/clones & counterfeit atty's there were back when that style was popular.
Long before lot numbers & anti counterfeit authentication codes.

 

[eddykoodoo]

You can buy any type of wire you want commonly used in vaping & build your own coils, then wick them with cotton or rayon.

Several manufacturers of replacement heads state the type of wire & wicking material used in their product.
Find one that suits your comfort level.

No one has answered your question about ego c, ego c elips, c1 atty's because as far as I'm aware the manufacturer never has stated what type of wire is used, my guess is NiCr, 60 or 80 I have no clue.
You would have to contact them (the manufacturer) to get an accurate answer.
I can easily believe you cant find any info about the atty's you use considering they are at least 3 years outdated.

You are splitting such fine hairs with this one wire type is more "safe" than this other type, that it could only be measured in hundredths of a single percent. .0?%.

Just me,
I don't use nickle (Ni) / (Ni200) because I think it tastes odd, nor do I use titanium (Ti) because I think it produces a slightly harsher vape and has a slight effect on flavor, but, that is all my personal preference it has nothing to do saftey and should in no way influence anyone's personal preference to use them.

NiCr Nichrome which is not the same as Ni (nickle/Ni200) used in temp control comes in 2 forms used in vaping NiCr60 NiCr80.

Kanthal a1 is reliable easy to work with.

Stainless steel, if I were going to hypothesize about the 'safest' wire
(again in hundredths of a single % safer) this would be it.

I suggest upgrading your equipment to something that uses readily available replacements with known quality wire types & wicking material.

What kind of equipement you suggest me?
Cause all the manufacturer claim they use the best materials organic cotton grade 1 nichrome etc...

The problem is all the newest hardware are thinked for direct inhale to lungs and i hate this vaping style...

 

[GrowthCurve]

Resistance wire safety guide
August 3, 2015August 4, 2015 morandir835 Product Reviews, TechnoVaping, Vaping TipsKanthal, Nichrome, Nickel, Resistance Wire, SS 304, SS 316, SS 317, Stainless Steel wire, Titanium, Vaping Safety, Vapor Reporter
On episode 32 of Vapor Reporter gave a quick rundown at the end about the safety of the different types of resistance wire we vapers use. I omitted one by mistake, which will be covered here- good ole nichrome wire. On top of the safety rating though will also give a quick rundown of each type.

Stainless Steel 304/316 series. Safety rating- 95 (A+). SS has been used in medical procedures for years, though only recently has found its way into vaping coils. This is also the type of steel used in cookware. Why? Because it has a very high melting point (2400-2750 degrees F), and the questionable alloys in the steel (nickel being the biggest of concern) also require a high amount of heat (2200-2300 degrees F) before they begin to leach. I don’t know any mainstream vaping device that can reach those levels. Stainless Steel also brings a few added bonuses to the table. 304, 316, and 317 (welding wire, also known as GPlat in the community) contains enough nickel so where it can be used in a temperature controlled device. The only downside is it can be a bit tough to work with as it’s a little stiffer than any of the other metals on this list save titanium.

Kanthal (Iron-Chromium-Aluminum)- 88 (B+). Kanthal was the second material used for resistance wire by vapers with good reason. Not only was it tougher than nichrome, but for those who were sensitive to nickel this was a perfect alternative. The safety concerns are two fold. Aluminum has it’s own stigma around it, but the big issue is the chrome content. With enough heat it can be transformed into it’s hexavalent (+6) oxide state, which is a known carcinogen, and leach. This would require you heating the coil to a orange hot state for an extended period of time. It’s why you should still replace your coils at some point, not just the wicking material. My rule is after every 3rd wick replacement and dry burn to remove the gunk. I have seen it suggested from others that you should anywhere between every time you change wicks to every 6th time. Kanthal isn’t compatible with temperature control devices as of writing this.



Titanium- 72 (C). The first alternative to nickel for temperature control to hit the ecig scene. Ti has the highest melting point of all the materials we use (3040 degrees F), has been used in medical procedures, and is one of the toughest metals known to man. So why the average rating? Titanium Oxide, the byproduct of heating it up. The EPA and OSHA have put a limit on how much any worker can inhale during a day. This makes it a questionable material to use for vaping. As long as you aren’t dry burning it, or running it too hot you should be fine, but there is no long term vape testing to say one way or the other. It’s up to the user on whether or not they want to take that risk. Keep in mind this is the stiffest material to use for making coils, which depending on your build style can be a good or bad thing.

NiChrome (Nickle-Chromium w/ some trace elements possible like iron)- 65 (D). Not only was it the first material vapers used for resistance wire, was the first documented material used for creating heat through electrical resistance back in 1905. It gets a very low grade on safety because it combines two metals with known issues. Nickel is a known carcinogen with other issues (will get to it), and as mentioned early Chromium Hexavalent is as well. It has a high melting point (2550 degrees F), but it doesn’t do it a lot of good in real world applications because of how soft the alloy is. 32g nichrome will “pop” easier than 32g kanthal, SS, or Ti. That’s not to say it doesn’t have its uses. For low wattage/temperature vaping you shouldn’t have any real issues. It has a lower resistance than the 3 mentioned before it, making it good for a heat sink material on some more exotic coil builds (think Clapton). It is also very flexible. For high wattage vapers or those sensitive to nickel can not suggest using it though.



Nickel- 55 (F). This material gets a failing grade for a large number of reasons. 1- It’s a known carcinogen linked more often than not to lung cancer. 2- There are people with nickel allergies who simply can not use this material to begin with. While it to has a high melting point (2647 degrees F), it’s such a soft metal that it not only easily pops but is very hard to work with. Like NiChrome it does have a use though- As non-resistant wire (a cheaper alternative to silver or gold). It has the lowest resistance of all the materials listed, so it’s the perfect choice to have electricity run through without heating it up. That’s why it was used back in the day on GG Ithaka and the like as lead wires, and today is used on the SS coil heads by Aspire. Because no heat is generated by the energy flowing through it, there’s almost no chance of it leaching through, meaning there’s very little chance of you breathing any of it in.

I don't really care about any of this other cr*p...i'm just GEEKING OUT over that KNARLY genisis coil
But seriously--temp control and the maintenance of temp control coils has been studied by vapers who use these wires. As for me--i'm too dumb at this point to learn any new procedures--which is why i have stuck with kanthal builds. With a nichrome build now and again. Three years and no ill effects. If you don't want to use temp control--then just don't. I don't--am i uncool? Yes. Do i care? Nope

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Including the suggestions you've been given already in various threads;
Innokin Prism t18 / t22.
Aspire - Nautilus mini, full size or Nautilus X, Triton mini or full size or Triton v2 full size or mini.
Kabuki , uses nautilus bvc heads.
Kanger top tank or nano with 1.2Ω heads
Joyetec cubis with 1.5 clapton or cubis pro
Eleaf GS air.

to name a few of the dozens.

 

[eddykoodoo]

Including the suggestions you've been given already in various threads;
Innokin Prism t18 / t22.
Aspire - Nautilus mini, full size or Nautilus X, Triton mini or full size or Triton v2 full size or mini.
Kabuki , uses nautilus bvc heads.
Kanger top tank or nano with 1.2Ω heads
Joyetec cubis with 1.5 clapton or cubis pro
Eleaf GS air.

to name a few of the dozens.

Let me answer you...
My justfog Q16 is really new hardware and is way way way better than Nautilus mini wich is the only one between you suggested me for mouth to lungs the other are more air vape style...
I also tried Gs air and is a terrible system always gurgling very airy etc...

Probably only kanger protank mini 2 is the best for mouth lung soft vape without tons of vapor.
I like system consume less liquid is hard to find a good one.Justfog Q16 is an amazing product but even at 3.4 volt produce to much vapor for my taste...
Would be perfect if they decide to produce a 2.0 ohm coils...
New style of vaping is to foggy people consume 15 ml of liquid 3mg nicotine easy...
I prefer 4 ml 9mg nicotine so my hardware should be smooth but less powerful as possible.
Also when you are around is not nice to show huge clouds of vapor...
But i believe new hardware are thinked for crazy reviewer love clouds competitions...

 

[puffon]

the other are mor air vape style..

The Innokin T18 and T22 are most defiantly mouth to lung.

 

[Bonskibon]

There is also the Protank mini 3 (slightly older gear) and Aspire K1 tanks that are very restrictive air flow. You need an ego adapter for those.

 

[eddykoodoo]

There is also the Protank mini 3 (slightly older gear) and Aspire K1 tanks that are very restrictive air flow. You need an ego adapter for those.

I believe under 2.2 ohm is hard to have a really good mouth to lungs vaping...
With close air resistance should be higher as possible unless you want tons of hot vapor...

But with new device the higher resistance are 1.8 ohm wich is crazy...

 

[sawlight]

I finally looked up this kit, seems like a hyped up Ego spinner to me.
I'm happily vaping on an Aspire Triton 2 tank, 1.8 ohm Kanthal coil at 15w, on a dual 18650 Cuboid capable of 200w, right now. I don't know why this is such a hard thing for you to find.

 

[sawlight]

For the record,
At 4v a 2.2 ohm coil is 7.27 watts.
At 4v a 1.8 ohm coil is 8.8 watts.
For many, many years we went by the math of take your resistance and add two to it to set your voltage and obtain an average of 11 watts. Even back then, 11 watts was the starting point, the you'd adjust up and down to get to your happy place.
Can you imagine? A whole 11 watts four years ago? The horror of it all!

 

[Bonskibon]

I believe under 2.2 ohm is hard to have a really good mouth to lungs vaping...
With close air resistance should be higher as possible unless you want tons of hot vapor...

But with new device the higher resistance are 1.8 ohm wich is crazy...

Well I have used them both and with a 1.8 coil it is a very cool restrictive MTL vape. Have my Protanks put away, but still use my K1 with my tobacco liquids and not a hot vape at all. To each their own, just trying to help.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Let me answer you...
My justfog Q16 is really new hardware and is way way way better than Nautilus mini wich is the only one between you suggested me for mouth to lungs the other are more air vape style...
I also tried Gs air and is a terrible system always gurgling very airy etc...

Probably only kanger protank mini 2 is the best for mouth lung soft vape without tons of vapor.
I like system consume less liquid is hard to find a good one.Justfog Q16 is an amazing product but even at 3.4 volt produce to much vapor for my taste...
Would be perfect if they decide to produce a 2.0 ohm coils...
New style of vaping is to foggy people consume 15 ml of liquid 3mg nicotine easy...
I prefer 4 ml 9mg nicotine so my hardware should be smooth but less powerful as possible.
Also when you are around is not nice to show huge clouds of vapor...
But i believe new hardware are thinked for crazy reviewer love clouds competitions...

I don't use 15ml per day using any delivery device and vape anything between .58 @ 30w to 1.8 @ 12-14w.

Everything I suggested will produce a tight draw, cold / cool vapor, very efficient liquid consumption, good flavor and whatever amount of vapor you chose if you take the time to learn how to use them to suite your preferences.
If you're getting too much vapor use a higher PG ratio.

It is impossible to help someone that really doesn't want any.

 

[eddykoodoo]

For the record,
At 4v a 2.2 ohm coil is 7.27 watts.
At 4v a 1.8 ohm coil is 8.8 watts.
For many, many years we went by the math of take your resistance and add two to it to set your voltage and obtain an average of 11 watts. Even back then, 11 watts was the starting point, the you'd adjust up and down to get to your happy place.
Can you imagine? A whole 11 watts four years ago? The horror of it all!

Let me tell you my ideal vaping style would

be 3.7 constant voltage with 2.2 ohm and you can't find anything new on the market with this specs...
Ok for the battery wouldn't be a problem is easy to find but for heads and atomizer really hard.I like to do very long mouth draw and with new divece if i do i get a nicotine overdose or i have to reduce nicotine but then would consume double of e liquid

 

[sawlight]

I don't use 15ml per day using any delivery device and vape anything between .58 @ 30w to 1.8 @ 12-14w.

Everything I suggested will produce a tight draw, cold / cool vapor, very efficient liquid consumption, good flavor and whatever amount of vapor you chose if you take the time to learn how to use them to suite your preferences.
If you're getting too much vapor use a higher PG ratio.

It is impossible to help someone that really doesn't want any.

WORD!!!!

 

[Eskie]

If you really feel a 2.2 ohm build is the one resistance that will work best for you and can't find it in what's on the market, and given your concern on what metals your wires are built from, how about getting a Kayfun clone for <$20,put in your own 2.2 ohm built coil from whatever metal you feel is the safest, wick it, and have a great mtl experience. Just because it's not sold doesn't mean it can't be achieved.

 

[nebulis]

I have been using the C1 atomizer for three years now, not exclusively but daily. I have never seen any specification as to what material the wire is made of. All you can do is avoid dry burn (as for me, I never do it) and too much gunk on your coil before you swap the atomizer for a new one. In an Elips ecig or in my ecabs I think we simply cannot have temperatures that could be, in one way or other, very risky - but this is simply my opinion.

PS
Ni-Chr wire has Nickel, both Ni-Chr and Kanthal have Chromium ... I am not sure the difference is that big. No risk at all means no vape, for the time being.

 

[sawlight]

Let me tell you my ideal vaping style would

be 3.7 constant voltage with 2.2 ohm and you can't find anything new on the market with this specs...
Ok for the battery wouldn't be a problem is easy to find but for heads and atomizer really hard.I like to do very long mouth draw and with new divece if i do i get a nicotine overdose or i have to reduce nicotine but then would consume double of e liquid

And that calculates out to 6.22 watts. Buy a variable wattage (VW) mod and set it to 6.2 watts! Then it doesn't make a rip what the resistance is! 1 ohm, 1.2, 1.8, doesn't matter!
How hard was that to sort out?
Oh yeah, you'll tell me all the reasons it WONT WORK, without trying any of it because it's dangerous, stupid, unhealthy, won't be the same because of this or that, never mind that's the whole reason they created variable devices to start with.