Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt

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SLM

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The Ferengi Rules of Acqusition #16 applies.


You should probably stay away from audio gear... :lol:
Hahaha! More than likely! I once started out to put a radio in my car... Ended up with the new head unit, speakers, custom tweeter pods, sub, two amps and a mile of wire. All cuz I wanted a CD player! LOL!

Had to Google...

"A deal is a deal (is a deal)...until a better one comes along."

Now what's this about a "Slice"?

Must not buy mod... LOL!
 
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TrollDragon

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Hahaha! More than likely! I once started out to put a radio in my car... Ended up with the new head unit, speakers, custom tweeter pods, sub, two amps and a mile of wire. All cuz I wanted a CD player! LOL!

Had to Google...

"A deal is a deal (is a deal)...until a better one comes along."

Now what's this about a "Slice"?

Must not buy mod... LOL!
The money pit that is audio... ;) :D

The Slice is Hohm Tech's single 26650 mod, similar to the VT75. One of the sites that won't ship to Canada had them on for $30 a few weeks ago.
 
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SLM

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The money pit that is audio... ;) :D

The Slice is Hohm Tech's single 26650 mod, similar to the VT75. One of the sites that won't ship to Canada had them on for $30 a few weeks ago.
Uugh! That sucks! Funny enough, I'm using my VT75 right now. Maybe I'll searching for Slice at a good price!
 
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excalibur-x

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Hello, this is my first post on this forum so please be kind to a newbie.

I am currently living in a country where vaping is not prohibited but imports of vaping equipment is banned. This means price of mods, tanks an all other stuff is doubled, in some cases even tripled and offer is limited.

I am new with vaping (2 months) but I already realized EVIC mini with Tron-S is not enough to play with. Tron-S with its miniature CLR coil is not enough. I already made some twisted 0,3mm titanium coils 5 wraps in 2.4mm screw but the airflow is so limited. And especially since I tried couple of vapes from my friends tank I just had to upgrade. Also because I want a backup.

After long research I got a nice price on Cuboid and Griffin 25 RDA TAP. I hope they will be delivered today. I'm aware of the problem with Cuboid 510 pin connector and after checking DJLsv Vapes I realized pin on tank is just a little to long to be used on Cuboid.

In his charts depth of Cuboid pin ranges from 4,00mm to 4,80mm and Griffins threads are 4,60mm deep while pin protrudes 5,02mm. It means I'm 0,22mm short and over time pin on Cuboid will get destroyed.

Since I'm living in a country where buying replacement gear is PITA and expensive I want to start using Cuboid with great care since day one. From a plastic card I'm planing to make a round spacer to fit between tank and the mod. Is this enough to extend the life of 510 pin?

P.S. Griffin 25 has adjustable bottom pin. Can it be crewed more so pin is almost flush with the treads?
 
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cigatron

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Welcome to the forum.

A plastic spacer should work perfect. Screw the Griffin 25 pos pin in all the way, screw the tank onto the Cuboid all the way, measure the gap between the tank and mod with a feeler gauge, add .5mm to that gap and then find or make a spacer(s).
Fwiw, I ran a tank on my cuboid that showed a gap for months and never had a problem.
 

IDJoel

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@excalibur-x
Some have found the use of a heat sink useful; Like this one: Kepler 510 Heat Sink. Just be sure that it is adjustable. By that I mean the "inner" center post screws into the "outer" center post. This allows you to adjust the post portion that connects with the Cuboid so that it sits flush. Then you can adjust (separately) the heat sink's internal center pin to be compatible with the atty of your choosing.

Also, as far as the Griffin is concerned, be cautious about over tightening its center pin. I have a Griffin (22; not the 25) and while trying to snug up the center pin, to get it closer to flush, I dislodged something that makes the connection between the pin and positive post on the build deck. The vendor made good on it but otherwise it would have been a paper weight. I don't know if the Griffin 25 is susceptible to the same problem; but be aware.
 

excalibur-x

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Yesterday Cuboid and Griffin came to post office, but after driver already left. Of course, I just had to have new gear in my hands and I picked the package personally.

As anticipated, Griffin's pin is just little longer than pin on Tron-S. I can't find my caliper to measure, but I think it's about 0.2 mm difference. I carefully screwed Griffin on my Evic mini and I could feel that the 510 pin is getting squashed while the tank was still wobbly. So, before first vape from new tank there was some work to be done.

I checked my wallet for some old plastic cards I will never again use. Drilled 5 mm hole, drew a circle around my Trons-S, cut with scissors and fine-tuned the edge with a pile. Now with plastic washer contact between Evic and Griffin is achieved just before the Griffin is tightly screwed on to the mod. Probably I already little squashed the pin on Evic while I was using Subtank mini. A friend gave it to me because it was leaking and he was screwing the tank on to the mod so hard that he clipped the insulation on atomizer and made a short. He didn't bother fixing it and bought a box of cigarettes. Well, I also made a mistake because the tank was leaking from the pin also and i installed a tiny washer under the pin in hope the leaking will stop. Well, leaking stopped but after some time I also got atomizer short warning. While fixing the damn thing, I dropped the tank on kitchen floor and all problems with the tank and atomizer short went away in an instance. It was a fake product with bad threads, so no big harm was done, but when replacement glass comes, I will try to fix it. Strangely, when not leaking I like the tank much more than Tron. Taste and airflow were much better. And probably leaking was a problem because of bad wicking. We will see.

Cuboid came with hardware V. 1.01 and firmware V. 3.00. I have 2 different batteries and I just checked the mod to check it is not DOA. I upgraded firmware to 5.14 and fired just couple of test vapes while plugged to USB. Seems everything is OK and combo looks great. But for now, I have to wait for new batteries and Cuboid went back in the box and on to the shelf. Aaaaa, China is too faaaaar. :D

Tomorrow I will buy a caliper so I can be 100% sure about this solution and I will try to find some sort of stainless steel I can use as a spacer. I know there should be some nice thin shining washers I can use instead of plastic but finding them will take some effort.

I must say Griffin is a beast. I had a spare twisted coil 0,34 ohm I just tried using it with CLR. I cleaned it and installed it to my new tank. Wicked, soaked the wick, filled the tank and made a giant cloud. :thumbs: Shame I used juice I didn't like so much because after few vapes it tasted even worst. Quickly changed to my favorite juice and yeaaaah, cookies my mouth. And cookies in my bureau, on the hallway, in the saloon, kitchen... Everywhere. :thumbs: Only problem is I will have to resupply the juice very quickly. Tank is just eating the liquid. Especially after level goes under the chimney. Nevertheless, it's so rewarding. :thumbs:


For now that's it.

Thanks for help and a warm welcome.
 

excalibur-x

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I bought a caliper and did some measurements on Evic mini, Cuboid and Griffin 25. They are little different from what djlsbvapes posted.

measurements.png


With 0.8mm spacer I'm on a safe side. Especially with Evic mini where pins touch when I apply little more squeeze. Tron's pin length is 4.3mm

I looked for metal spacer with diameter of 22-24mm but they only had standard DIN washers that are too thick.

According to DIN 988 there are some shim washers from stainless steel that could be used as a spacer. Just have to find them.
 
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cigatron

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I bought a caliper and did some measurements on Evic mini, Cuboid and Griffin 25. They are little different from what djlsbvapes posted.

View attachment 617367

With 0.8mm spacer I'm on a safe side. Especially with Evic mini where pins touch when I apply little more squeeze. Tron's pin length is 4.3mm

I looked for metal spacer with diameter of 22-24mm but they only had standard DIN washers that are too thick.

According to DIN 988 there are some shim washers from stainless steel that could be used as a spacer. Just have to find them.

Great work. Let us know where you find a ss spacer.
 
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TrollDragon

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I have used a circle cut from a margarine tub top or any decent quality playing card will make an excellent spacer as well. Paper hole punch for the center and trim to fit.

SS shims would be really nice in 22mm & 25mm though.

A KP Mod Guard would be an easy fix.
KP Mod Guard - 5 Pack

I'd pick some up, but they want too much to send a $2 item to Canada... :(
 
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cobalt327

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Thanks for the suggestion! I'll look into that one.

Well, after a bit more time with the custom firmware, I am seriously impressed. The power curve feature is amazing; it's like preheat on steroids! You can set different power percentages (0 - 200%) throughout the entire 10 second fire time. You can do silly things like jump from 200% to 0% every half second (try it out just once, it's damn weird for it to pulse like that). But it can also do extremely useful things such as a gradually diminishing preheat. Right now I have it set to:

  • 0.0 - 1.0 s: 132%
  • 1.0 - 2.0 s: 116%
  • 2.0 - 2.5 s: 108%
  • 2.5 - 3.0 s: 104%
  • 3.0 - 3.5 s: 102%
  • 3.5 - 4.0 s: 101%
  • 4.0+ s: 100%

This gives a fairly strong preheat for one second, a moderate preheat for the next second, followed by a smooth drop down to the set power level. You can spend a lot of time here tweaking the curve to do exactly what you want, but my settings should be a good starting point for anyone wanting a "smooth" preheat curve. And because it's set as percentages rather than actual wattages, it will work the exact same way regardless of the wattage you have the mod set for.

I've only just started to dive down into the temperature control settings, but I can already tell that it is significantly more powerful and flexible than the stock firmware.

Other settings that I've found to be quite useful:

  • Screen contrast: The Cuboid is set from the factory at 17% contrast. It's a gorgeous screen, but is not very bright. Bumping up the contrast to 100% looks just as good, and is significantly brighter.
  • Coil memory: It automatically remembers the power or temperature settings for different coils (based on their resistance). For example, I have a 0.62 ohm dual Clapton coil on my 24 mm Moonshot RTA that I run at 60 watts. On my Goon RDA right now is a 1.46 ohm single Clapton coil that I run at 35 watts. When I switch between the two, the wattage is automatically adjusted to the proper setting.
  • Enable/disable individual modes: I don't use the "smart" mode, and I only use stainless steel for TC builds, and the stock SS316 mode works just fine (no need to set my own TCR) so I disabled the nickel, titanium, TCR, and smart modes, so now it just scrolls between power, bypass (a new mode which outputs whatever voltage the batteries are at), and TC-SS316 modes.
  • ±1.0 Watt: Increases or decreases the wattage by 1 watt instead of 0.1 watt.
  • Extra data: You can display the battery voltage or battery percentage next to the battery level icon at the bottom. Also, on the third line of data, instead of just being able to choose from amps, puff counter, and puff time, you can also choose (actual) output voltage, battery voltage, board temperature, currently measured resistance, estimated mL or mL/day juice consumption, and clock.
  • Scrolling speed: When adjusting wattage, it takes more time for the scrolling speed to increase to its maximum. It's also a gradual increase in speed, rather than just a couple of instantaneous increases in speed (so you won't overshoot your intended setting like almost always happens with the stock firmware).
Get this firmware!
Has anyone used this firmware on the Wismec Vapor Flask Stout?
 
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