Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt
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That is a Varitube V2.
I don't know how well the Varitube will fit as opposed to a FDV version. I have used FDV 510's in the past and I like the design on the new Varitube better.
You do realize that replacing the 510 is not just a drop in and go type of thing. The Cuboid will require quite a bit of modification to install a replacement 510.
around page 51 I started to post my 510 replacement with pictures. spread over a few of the pages with pics
Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt
atleast to get a better angle on whats involved with cuboid
Quick question... I just got one of these and wondered what the proper TCR is for 430 stainless? Looking at SteamEngine I think it should be set to 138?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thanks.I use 138 on mine for SS430.
I wanted to verify I was looking at it right.
Nice custom firmware for the Cuboid and others in the JT family.
Adds the Clock, a bunch of TC features, multi profiles and more.
GitHub - ClockSelect/myevic: This is myevic Custom Firmware.
Adds the Clock, a bunch of TC features, multi profiles and more.
GitHub - ClockSelect/myevic: This is myevic Custom Firmware.
I like it!
It breathes new life back into the ole Cuboid.
I set 2 clicks to switch to the Clock screen and left 3 clicks as Edit, never bothered with the 4 click setting. The Default SS316 setting works with my current build so I never bother changing anything in the Coil menu. Swapped out the Puff Counter for Amps and added the % to the battery meter. Many options to tinker with!
The FWUpdater from the VTCFont package has a nice option to set the clock.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/83zd19gu05pl3r6/EvicVTCFont.rar?dl=1
With the Cuboid plugged in (shows info instead of No connection), check the Expert Mode option and then hit the Set current Time button.
It breathes new life back into the ole Cuboid.
I set 2 clicks to switch to the Clock screen and left 3 clicks as Edit, never bothered with the 4 click setting. The Default SS316 setting works with my current build so I never bother changing anything in the Coil menu. Swapped out the Puff Counter for Amps and added the % to the battery meter. Many options to tinker with!
The FWUpdater from the VTCFont package has a nice option to set the clock.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/83zd19gu05pl3r6/EvicVTCFont.rar?dl=1
With the Cuboid plugged in (shows info instead of No connection), check the Expert Mode option and then hit the Set current Time button.
Thanks so much for sharing! I haven't had a chance to try out all of the features, but the preheat setting is incredibly useful. I rarely if ever use simple single-strand builds anymore, having settled on Clapton and twisted-core Clapton coils as my usual builds, or twisted builds if I'm in a hurry. The ramp-up time of bigger builds was an annoyance, but the extra flavor and vapor once they get going was worth it. But the preheat setting helps out a lot here -- by firing at 140% of the set power for 0.5 - 1 second, ramp up time is greatly diminished. With more aggressive settings (higher power percentage and a longer preheat time), it can even be used as a very crude but useful form of "temperature control" for Kanthal or nichrome builds. It of course won't prevent dry hits and burnt wicking when juice is depleted, but it can allow you to comfortably take much longer draws without the coil getting too hot.
I'm definitely excited to check out the other added features of this custom firmware.
It was posted in the Cuboid FB group, otherwise I wouldn't have heard about it.
If you are looking for an excellent mod that will TC Kanthal and Nichrome as well as all the others, get a HOhm Wrecker G2.
I picked up a second one (Red) during VaporCube's flash sale.
If you are looking for an excellent mod that will TC Kanthal and Nichrome as well as all the others, get a HOhm Wrecker G2.
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll look into that one.
Well, after a bit more time with the custom firmware, I am seriously impressed. The power curve feature is amazing; it's like preheat on steroids! You can set different power percentages (0 - 200%) throughout the entire 10 second fire time. You can do silly things like jump from 200% to 0% every half second (try it out just once, it's damn weird for it to pulse like that). But it can also do extremely useful things such as a gradually diminishing preheat. Right now I have it set to:
- 0.0 - 1.0 s: 132%
- 1.0 - 2.0 s: 116%
- 2.0 - 2.5 s: 108%
- 2.5 - 3.0 s: 104%
- 3.0 - 3.5 s: 102%
- 3.5 - 4.0 s: 101%
- 4.0+ s: 100%
This gives a fairly strong preheat for one second, a moderate preheat for the next second, followed by a smooth drop down to the set power level. You can spend a lot of time here tweaking the curve to do exactly what you want, but my settings should be a good starting point for anyone wanting a "smooth" preheat curve. And because it's set as percentages rather than actual wattages, it will work the exact same way regardless of the wattage you have the mod set for.
I've only just started to dive down into the temperature control settings, but I can already tell that it is significantly more powerful and flexible than the stock firmware.
Other settings that I've found to be quite useful:
- Screen contrast: The Cuboid is set from the factory at 17% contrast. It's a gorgeous screen, but is not very bright. Bumping up the contrast to 100% looks just as good, and is significantly brighter.
- Coil memory: It automatically remembers the power or temperature settings for different coils (based on their resistance). For example, I have a 0.62 ohm dual Clapton coil on my 24 mm Moonshot RTA that I run at 60 watts. On my Goon RDA right now is a 1.46 ohm single Clapton coil that I run at 35 watts. When I switch between the two, the wattage is automatically adjusted to the proper setting.
- Enable/disable individual modes: I don't use the "smart" mode, and I only use stainless steel for TC builds, and the stock SS316 mode works just fine (no need to set my own TCR) so I disabled the nickel, titanium, TCR, and smart modes, so now it just scrolls between power, bypass (a new mode which outputs whatever voltage the batteries are at), and TC-SS316 modes.
- ±1.0 Watt: Increases or decreases the wattage by 1 watt instead of 0.1 watt.
- Extra data: You can display the battery voltage or battery percentage next to the battery level icon at the bottom. Also, on the third line of data, instead of just being able to choose from amps, puff counter, and puff time, you can also choose (actual) output voltage, battery voltage, board temperature, currently measured resistance, estimated mL or mL/day juice consumption, and clock.
- Scrolling speed: When adjusting wattage, it takes more time for the scrolling speed to increase to its maximum. It's also a gradual increase in speed, rather than just a couple of instantaneous increases in speed (so you won't overshoot your intended setting like almost always happens with the stock firmware).
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Just happend to remember there was Wismec Presa TC75 in the closet when I was reading through what the firmware works on so... It's now on the Presa TC75.
And a little OT but I now have one of these coming. Not real keen on the blue but for the price I couldn't not try one. I have way too many DNA boxes already. :-\If you are looking for an excellent mod that will TC Kanthal and Nichrome as well as all the others, get a HOhm Wrecker G2.
I picked up a second one (Red) during VaporCube's flash sale.
Most Excellent!!
I have a pair of G2's and am patiently waiting on a Slice sale. There is a big G2 thread over at the other place full of great info and great people. Just remember it's not a DNA.
It will probably come a firmware behind, download the latest and flash it when you get it. The new firmware made the preset modes much better and has settings for SS 304/316/317/430.
Right click on the firmware and "Save Target As" if it shows up as text in your browser instead of asking where you want to save the file.
There is a good video on how to flash it too.
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@TrollDragon
Awesome! Thanks! It was your post above that made me go looking!
I said I wasn't buying any more mods or tanks but that doesn't seem to be working out so well!
Awesome! Thanks! It was your post above that made me go looking!
I said I wasn't buying any more mods or tanks but that doesn't seem to be working out so well!
The Ferengi Rules of Acqusition #16 applies.
You should probably stay away from audio gear...
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