Juice Controller causing leaking

[aruga]

Hello again all.

I have a odd problem so I wanted to ask the experts.

When I am constantly opening or closing the juice control, alot of the time the atty or carto will twist with the controller. The problem is when closing the controller it will sometimes loosen the atty/carto causing a huge area of leakage.
Has anyone else had this happen?

I have tried different size and brand attys/cartos. I have also treid loosening the very top cap, keeping it tight, barelt loosening,ect.. and now I am at my witz end.

IT gets really bad if I use a 510 thread adapter, then the atty will loosen more frequently from the adapter.

Any advice?

On a side note I purchased one of those UFS to 510 adpter and can now use it on my Darwin and Provari and it's a whole new world of vaping. The problem above is my last isssue to work out then I will be very happy everytime I use my UFS

Thanks so much fro your time and help
Aruga

 

[Major]

If you lubricate the top O-ring under the mouthpiece that seals the atty or carto with Vaseline, it will allow the atty/carto to remain in place. Of course remove the O-ring mentioned and lube it outside the UFS with just enough to provide the needed slipping motion.

An unlubricated O-ring will grab the atty/carto and in combination with a too tight ring that holds the atty/carto O-ring in place, allow the atty to unscrew when you "close" the juice control. The lubricant allows the atty to rotate while maintaining a seal.

That should cure your problem but if not, please advise. If you get time, let us know how it went for you as this corrects the issue for almost all who have had this situation.

 

[utal]

Hi all!

I'm having the same experience, I used vaseline and it's all apparently well sealed.

Do I need to screw hard the ceramic housing against the base so the o-ring get's pressed? I didn't screw to the end because I wanted to get Ody adapted and no space between ody base and stealth. Might this be causing the leaking in the bottom?

Thanks!

 

[Major]

Hi all!

I'm having the same experience, I used vaseline and it's all apparently well sealed.

Do I need to screw hard the ceramic housing against the base so the o-ring get's pressed? I didn't screw to the end because I wanted to get Ody adapted and no space between ody base and stealth. Might this be causing the leaking in the bottom?

Thanks!

Aruga's problem is with his UFS. But as to your Ody leaking from what you wrote, it sounds like you are not tightening the ceramic housing into the base tightly enough to make a seal with the bottom O-ring. The connector pin needs to be tightened against the bottom of the ceramic housing so the other small O-ring seals properly against the bottom of the ceramic housing.

One or both of those O-rings are the most likely source of any leak from the bottom of the Ody. If some of the GG tank gurus can add to this or correct any error with my reply, please do so.

 

[utal]

Thanks Major and sorry about mixing in this thread.

I'll be making my 3rd coil by the evening and will tight very well the ceramic housing with the base

 

[utal]

aruga I'm far away from being an expert but I have that issue often, depending on the atty vendor. The wrong atty led me to a terrible experience with UFS, specially with Joye 510LR and ecigz attys (left the stock of these attys just for driping tests with liquids).

Found that with Cisco LR 1.5/1.7 the vape is simply perfect and they can handle +1month of hard vapping @ 3.7V.

 

[Vaporologist]

If you lubricate the top O-ring under the mouthpiece that seals the atty or carto with Vaseline, it will allow the atty/carto to remain in place. Of course remove the O-ring mentioned and lube it outside the UFS with just enough to provide the needed slipping motion.

An unlubricated O-ring will grab the atty/carto and in combination with a too tight ring that holds the atty/carto O-ring in place, allow the atty to unscrew when you "close" the juice control. The lubricant allows the atty to rotate while maintaining a seal.

That should cure your problem but if not, please advise. If you get time, let us know how it went for you as this corrects the issue for almost all who have had this situation.

Hey Major, I would just like to add that unlike on the ODY, it's important to not over-tighten the little top cap on the UFS. Its main purpose is to just hold the top o-ring in place.

 

[aruga]

Just wanted to say thank you. Lubing the o ring more worked perfectly along with finding the sweet spot for the top cap.
Once again thanks for the advice

 

[rwechsler]

Glad your problem got solved! I think most UFS users experience the same issue when they first get theres, I know I did xD
On a side note, I also just got a UFS->510 adapter and would love to see a pic of it on the Darwin! Here's one of my UFSv2 on my black ProVari:

IMG_1915

 

[aruga]

Here you go.
Let me warn you about one thing. Having the UFS attached to the Provari caused to much strain on the adapter and broke it. I had to order 2 more. It is so heavy that the adapter cant support the weight, so the only time i USe it on the Darwin is if I am in a situation where I ca be very careful. It does perform better on the Darwin IMO. Darwin is hard to beat but having a Provari has its advantages as-well as I am sure you know

 

[rwechsler]

Hmm, I'll keep that in mind. I removed the oring between the connector pin and the threaded part that's the next tier up from the base of the pin, as well as sanding down my adapter's threads with some 150 and then 400 grit sand paper, so it sits pretty tightly in my UFS.

Darwin is definitely a unique device! There isn't really anything else out on the market that you can fairly compare it to (the Kick is the only thing that comes to mind). I get so fed up with the E1, E2, and E4 error messages on my provari, so the Darwin seems like an attractive VV (well VW) option. The folding connector seems a bit wonky to me though. How high does the wattage go up to? And is there an automatic amperage cutoff like with the provari?

 

[Killjoy1]

How high does the wattage go up to? And is there an automatic amperage cutoff like with the provari?

12.7 watts max, amp cutoff is I think 3 amps (definitely at least that) so you can still get that max setting even with a 1.5 ohm atty. The connector arm is actually a nice feature for me, though individual tastes vary. I don't care for my Ody on it, though (and would probably never even try a UFS there). It's kind of an ungainly weight distribution since the short mode Ody is about the same weight as the Darwin, itself. I haven't bothered to put a big mode Ody on there after that experience

 

[Giulio]

Some problems of leakage from the CR I got solved them so