Have you tried a Prometheus genesis?
If you like the Kraken, you should check it out.
You can find clones reasonably cheap now, and they are excellent gennys.
Just another mech thread
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Have you tried a Prometheus genesis?
If you like the Kraken, you should check it out.
You can find clones reasonably cheap now, and they are excellent gennys.
I disagree with this. In a non-hotspring spring-fired mech the current should path through the switch post and barrel. If the spring heats up your other switch parts are too dirty. If it fires consistently through the spring it isn't a good mech.
Well I'm only interested in tube mechs, don't care for the box format, but I'll look around at what they are making over there
MCV panzer. Bombproof, and hits hard even in stainless. Makes the switch components in a poldiac feel like miniaturized toys.
There are a few authentics that don't have any good clones available, such as the Philippine anti-chunk, the Tarsius Customs 4Nine
Here in brass and copper. I like to build low, so I only use Sony VTC4s. They stay cool even at 30 amps current draw ( 4.2 volts @ .14 ohm), though my typical builds are between a quarter and fifth of an ohm.
As long as you know your batteries limitations there is nothing to fear with mechs, an elegant solution for a more civilized age.
Agreed on the 4nine. Love the Bottom/Button Design. Can both easily fire the Mod AND then set it down without messing with a Locker and no worries.
I have a COV Kindred that employs the same Design with a Magnetic Switch & Silver-plated lower & upper Contacts.
Run an Origen V2 on it Singe-Coil @ 0.5 ohm so can more than safely use it in 18500 Config. A 7/6 wrap of 317L SS on a 2.38mm bit draws right at 8 Amps at full charge Voltage. On a proven 15 Amp rated Batt, quite safe. in 18500 Config with the Origen it is very stealthy yet easily handled and used, tasty, and produces a good Vapor mass. Nice mix of all Facets.
I have a COV Kindred that employs the same Design with a Magnetic Switch & Silver-plated lower & upper Contacts.
Run an Origen V2 on it Singe-Coil @ 0.5 ohm so can more than safely use it in 18500 Config. A 7/6 wrap of 317L SS on a 2.38mm bit draws right at 8 Amps at full charge Voltage. On a proven 15 Amp rated Batt, quite safe. in 18500 Config with the Origen it is very stealthy yet easily handled and used, tasty, and produces a good Vapor mass. Nice mix of all Facets.
On the subject of hot springs, would it be an idea to use them? Are they easy to install?
Only I'm looking at my Kindred and I'm kind of confused...
Only I'm looking at my Kindred and I'm kind of confused...
18490/500 bats are pretty much all I use, 14500 in the Mako is the only exception.
It seems to work out that I charge 1.5 batteries/day with my builds.
After posting last night, I just had to stick an A7 on top of that new N Zonic. I have to say that it probably has the best bite of any SS mechanical that I've tried.
Ya, a hot spring is a good idea. However, even if a bottom button has a hot spring, it will do nothing because the ground connection to the battery is direct. (the spring is compressed when you push the button) You need to have the switch at the positive end (like the REO) for the hot spring to be part of the circuit.
It seems to work out that I charge 1.5 batteries/day with my builds.
After posting last night, I just had to stick an A7 on top of that new N Zonic. I have to say that it probably has the best bite of any SS mechanical that I've tried.
Ya, a hot spring is a good idea. However, even if a bottom button has a hot spring, it will do nothing because the ground connection to the battery is direct. (the spring is compressed when you push the button) You need to have the switch at the positive end (like the REO) for the hot spring to be part of the circuit.
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18490/500 bats are pretty much all I use, 14500 in the Mako is the only exception.
It seems to work out that I charge 1.5 batteries/day with my builds.
After posting last night, I just had to stick an A7 on top of that new N Zonic. I have to say that it probably has the best bite of any SS mechanical that I've tried.
Ya, a hot spring is a good idea. However, even if a bottom button has a hot spring, it will do nothing because the ground connection to the battery is direct. You need to have the switch at the positive end (like the REO) for the hot spring to be part of the circuit.
Thanks, not only that but wouldn't a hot spring be counter productive on a bottom button mod, surely if it collapsed it would complete the circuit wouldn't it??
You mean, you still haven't decided Matty?
Happy Easter and good luck.
Happy Easter and good luck.
A hot spring is an artifact from the days of batteries that weren't suitable for high current draw. It is essentially a fuse that will heat up, sag and stay that way once it has effectively cut the power. They work if your mod was designed to use one, though as I stated before, in a majority of mods the spring shouldn't be a major current path... Keep your switch post and barrel clean!
You asked what to use to clean contacts. For non-plated contacts a fiberglass scratch stick, sand eraser, or ink eraser (the blue or grey gritty kind that also erases the paper) will work to remove the carburization switch contacts build up. Cape Cod polishing cloths will buff up a copper or brass mod pretty quickly, and last longer than you would think. Be careful what you use on mods that have electroplating, some more aggressive metal polishes will take it off.
You asked what to use to clean contacts. For non-plated contacts a fiberglass scratch stick, sand eraser, or ink eraser (the blue or grey gritty kind that also erases the paper) will work to remove the carburization switch contacts build up. Cape Cod polishing cloths will buff up a copper or brass mod pretty quickly, and last longer than you would think. Be careful what you use on mods that have electroplating, some more aggressive metal polishes will take it off.
No.
It's a terrible idea.
Unless your mod was designed to use one, do not add a hot spring.
Incorrect.
In almost every bottom switch mod the spring is sandwiched between the button and the housing with every press.
The compressed spring carries a load.
Unless you push slightly off center, so the shaft touches the wall of the channel it slides through, a straight push sandwiches the spring and becomes the main point of contact.
a hot spring means you have too much current flowing thru the spring. it is something to be avoided.
Unless you don't use a resistance so low that it collapses the spring.
Unless the switch has a rice pin that makes contact.
Seems like every rule has exceptions.
Remember, a lot of bottom buttons don't even have a spring. (the magnets have to make contact)
dirty magnets = lousy connection, but then again, in some switches the magnets don't touch.
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LOL, Maurice.
A "hot spring" is a collapsible spring used in line as a fuse.
A spring that is hot is one with too much current through it.
Tapatyped
I have found it useful to bootstrap the spring by soldering 2 pieces of 3mm soldering wick to connect the outer ring to the bottom of the spring where it makes contact with the bottom button and the center post. if the bushing is tight enough to make good electrical contact then it is likely to stick when fired
actually the term hot spring is used to describe both a fuse and a hot button situation. on a google search for hot spring the hot button issue will come up withe the fuse being somewhere way down the list.it is rare to see any kind of fuse or protection being used with sub-ohm atty on mechanical mods
So how big is the difference in voltage drop between a ss-mod and one made in copper, including contacts.
Beign a lazy sod I prefer the ss for easier maintance, but if difference is big around 1 ohm loads might reconsider.
Also what good, non-cloned mechs are there nowdays?
Beign a lazy sod I prefer the ss for easier maintance, but if difference is big around 1 ohm loads might reconsider.
Also what good, non-cloned mechs are there nowdays?
A kick or 2cent fuse would be better in mods that are not meant to use hot springs.
Melting metal inside your mod isn't smart.
Hot springs are a cheapo safety measure used as afterthought on poorly designed switches.
Not this one.
The spring still carries a load when the switch is pressed dead center. The rice pin moves.
In the two mods that use a rice pin, (nemesis and stingray) the housing is brass and eventually wears. Eventually the spring (s) will carry a load.
A Hotspring would cause more problems than it would solve.
It's a bad idea.
Yes they do, unless you push the switch so the shaft touches the walls of the channel.
It's not magic.
And a Hotspring would be an even worse idea in a mod uses magnets.
Unless the mod was originally designed to use hotsprings, they are a bad idea.
Yes I know, but in say King 2 you can get either in ss or copper/brass.
Granted they both come with copper contacts.
On that mod honestly even with a .2 build it's almost impossible to tell a difference in copper and brass. There's a little difference in the SS with low resistance builds, but at say 1.0ohms you would need a meter to tell the difference.
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