Just cannot rewick my EVOD

[issact]

Hi guys n' gals,

First off, terribly sorry as this post must be off-topic for this forum. I'm pretty desperate in my difficulties here and would genuinely appreciate a bit of advice or direction.

A bit about myself, name's Steve and I have been vaping on and off for nearly 4 years. I have been browsing ECF the entire time as I like to research other's opinions but I generally don't join in, I lurk. Sorry! My most recent foray has been specifically because of EVOD, nothing else in that price range, in my opinion, even comes close to the clean flavors it produces.

The issue I'm having is rewicking. I just can't get my ego-T battery to take any coils I wind, I assume it's shorting but after my 20th attempt and 2ft of the 3ft of wick I purchased gone, well, I'm getting a bit frustrated.

I'm using a paper clip to steady the wick, most of my attempts have been 6 wraps. I tried 5 just now, and it didn't work. I have to say it was absolutely perfect and I just don't understand why it's shorting! I have kept it preserved in case a picture is needed, I'll oblige.

Whenever I attempt it, the light on my battery blinks once then goes off until I unscrew the head and it blinks a few more times. Again, I assume that means there's a short.

All my attempts to succeed have been based on this video:
Kanger EVOD T3 MT3 Bottom Coil Atomizer Rebuild HD Close Up - YouTube

I'm using needle nose pliers, nail clippers, and my paper clip. At my wits end, is there something else I'm missing?
Thanks in advance!

 

[bhswmc01]

Do you have a power source where you can check ohms? I'm using my itaste 3.0, as well as a standalone ohms meter. It's generally not a good idea to try new coils without testing them - safety first!

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

PT/EVOD heads aren't bad to rebuild once you get used to um.

To start off, what size silica are you using and what gauge of wire?

 

[issact]

Do you have a power source where you can check ohms? I'm using my itaste 3.0, as well as a standalone ohms meter. It's generally not a good idea to try new coils without testing them - safety first!

Last night I had borrowed my friend's multimeter and was getting a pretty consistent 2.2ohm with 6 wraps, one lead on the pin at the bottom and the other lead above the rubber grommit. I'm not sure what 5 wraps is, maybe that's 1.8?

I purchased all the materials suggested in that video. But the thing is, if the mulimeter gave me a reading that makes sense, then how the heck is it shorting on the ego?

PT/EVOD heads aren't bad to rebuild once you get used to um.

To start off, what size silica are you using and what gauge of wire?

2mm silica wick, 32 gauge Kanthal

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

2mm silica wick, 32 gauge Kanthal

Lol gonna sound really weird, but have any regular spaghetti?

 

[Susan W.]

So, after checking it with a multimeter, it's still shorting? Do you have any wire sticking out at all? That could cause a short. I'm using 32 gauge Kanthal and 3mm silica wick and use 5 wraps. I get around 1.7 to 1.8. I've only had one short out and that's because of a tiny, tiny piece of wire sticking out.

 

[jocat54]

Sounds like you may have the tails of coil sticking out to far----don't know if that makes any sense. When you screw the atomizer into the base they may be shorting out.

 

[Blu916]

Using an EVOD, (my favorite for Ego's btw) pull your chimney and flavor wick, try dry burning to see if the coil lights up, if not, did you twist the legs off or cut them? If the multimeter is reading 2.2 ohms then as long as you don't have a dog leg sticking out somewhere, you probably don't have a short but maybe the post on the Evod isn't making a connection to the top of the Ego? If you can provide pics it might help drill down a bit.

 

[issact]

Thanks for all the helpful replies! Seems many are suggesting the wires at the bottom, and I have been trying to use nail clippers to trim those close. Maybe it's not close enough? I did see a video of someone using a "twist-off" method to clear them out, should I try that next and test?

Lol gonna sound really weird, but have any regular spaghetti?

Haha, doesn't sound weird at all! I should, I'll take a look.

 

[Susan W.]

It has to be the kind that is made out of duram wheat and round, not the linguine kind. (Just joking)

I've never use the twist-off method but it's worth a try. I use a regular wire cutter and I make sure the wire coming out of the side gets pushed over the rubber grommet so the end isn't poking out.

Thanks for all the helpful replies! Seems many are suggesting the wires at the bottom, and I have been trying to use nail clippers to trim those close. Maybe it's not close enough? I did see a video of someone using a "twist-off" method to clear them out, should I try that next and test?


Haha, doesn't sound weird at all! I should, I'll take a look.

 

[issact]

Well, failure. With the twist-off method, there's nothing poking out at all. I honestly don't understand what's causing the problem.

I noticed the stock wire is about half the thickness of the 32ga kanthal, though.

 

[Jonathan Tittle]

I use the Protank / EVOD heads exclusively and I've been rebuilding them since, well, a long long time and the absolute best way that I've found to rebuild them is with a 1/16" drill bit or hex key (allen wrench). This get's coils the perfect size and you can normally slide the silica through. Of course, building the coil and then wicking does add an extra step, but at least your not wasting silica by chopping it up during your rebuilds.

The reason for using a tool such as a drill bit or allen wrench is consistency. You're able to make sure your coils are perfectly even, nice and tight and most of all, the same size. Odd sized coils create hot spots, which cause burning.

That said, you also need to take care to make sure the coils are not too high or too low in the head. To low and they will short, too high and when you put the post back on, they will short.

Using a drill bit or allen wrench (again, 1/16") will put them in perfect position because you can build the head with the drill bit down in the slits on the side of the head. Once you have it all together, you can remove the drill bit or allen wrench, wick the coil and make any final adjustments if the coils moved while you put the silica in.


Using this method, I've never had a short, never had a coil not fire and never had any burning.

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

I've made hundreds of coils for the evod and protank using 32 Kanthal, 2mm wick, and a 6/7 wrap for a 2.0-2.2 Ohm coil. I think I learned on a Phil Busardo video. Magnification was the key for me, and, of course a multimeter. I usually use an cartomizer/atomizer Ohm Meter. These are nice because you can use the base to rebuild the coils on:

Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter

Been a while and I don't use clearos any more, preferring carto tanks now. Good luck to you.

 

[issact]

I did a little test, and now I am just confused.

Just now I didn't bother coiling it. Just a direct lead (long enough to be like 3ohm resistance) in a loop as you would normally mount the coil. I wanted to see if it was how I was mounting them, if the coils were touching or something.

But no, still didn't light up in the simplest configuration thinkable. Battery still blinked oddly and cut power. What is going on here? x.X

 

[NorthwestV4l]

Try just taking out the wick and leaving the coil, then thread a cotton wick through the coil. Very easy and inexpensive. I do this daily.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

I think you're crossing your coil wires.
Pick a side, the wire on the left side goes through the grommet | the coil on the right side, goes against the base. Bend them out in the same directions your wicks are going.