Struggling to recoil.

[aznnp77]

Depends what cotton you use, Mujo or KGD japanese cotton is so easy to put in a 1.5mm micro coil.

Japanese cotton, organic cotton and cheeps "bleached" cotton, are all easy to mold and thread through a coil.

Yes, threading through a made coil is easy, but to actually wrap the coil around a non-solid piece of wicking material is not an easy thing to do, at least for me it's not.

Someone said earlier that silica cannot be threaded into a coil as easily as cotton/rayon. The OP is using silica. Unfortunately, I can't help him with the materials he has then, and I don't want to just tell him to go to CVS or Sallys and buy cotton/cellucotton and discard his silica, but that's probably the easiest solution.

 

[ThomasC]

Thanks everyone.

I don't want to waste this silica so in the mean time I'm going to keep using this.

A question, can the wire be coiled be really close together as long as it doesn't touch the sides of the metal thing? ...

I know with micro cooling it touches.

 

[Nightshard]

It can touch, almost touch or not touch.

 

[YEOJ]

+1 for the needle. Im trying this same thing soon

 

[EBates]

Here's a good video on rebuilding PT coils with silica.
IMO, rebuilding PT heads is far too much of a PITA. If you are gonna rebuild coils buy a RTA (Kayfun) and go at it. Much more rewarding.

Kanger Protank Bottom Coil Rebuild HD Close Up - YouTube

 

[ThomasC]

It can touch, almost touch or not touch.

but just avoid wire touching outa metal thing to avoid shorting, but the coil itself (the loops) can touch?

I think I was obsessing trying to leave a little gap between each loop that it was too long and would touch the metal and short it, not turn on or only light up 4 of 5 wraps.

 

[ThomasC]

+1 for the needle. Im trying this same thing soon

The silica is so thin anyway that I'm not quite understanding how you can put a pin through it. :s

 

[Nightshard]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s

 

[Ballistix]

I find that I get better results when all the loops are touching, as it makes one big contact area instead of a bunch of little ones. Also it's easiest for me to leave the needle/drill bit in the coil until the bottom of the head is assembled (rubber insulator and center pin) so that the legs don't cross and the bottom of the coil is flush with the bottom of the groove. After assembly moisten the wick pull out the needle and give it a quick fire to make sure it's working. Then put on the chimney and rubber piece. Of course you want to make sure the legs of the coil and coil itself are not contacting the metal on the side.

 

[Lessifer]

If you can't get the pin through the silica, just hold it alongside the silica and use it as a sturdy guide to wrap the coil around. So hold the silica and needle together, then wrap them together with the wire. The needle will also help you leave a tiny bit of space inside the coil so the wick isn't choked. Keep the needle in the coil while you're mounting it inside the protank head, don't remove it until you've got the coil legs secured into the base, it will help keep the coil from moving/losing its shape.

 

[ThomasC]

Thanks everyone. This thread has been of great help. I look forward to trying out a coil with silica tomorrow, and also a cotton one (will be using 100% cotton, not organic). I think the whole 'you got to buy organic' a bit silly.

I will update this thread with pics of my success - hopefully!

 

[joesquid]

Thanks everyone. This thread has been of great help. I look forward to trying out a coil with silica tomorrow, and also a cotton one (will be using 100% cotton, not organic). I think the whole 'you got to buy organic' a bit silly.

I will update this thread with pics of my success - hopefully!

I think the "organic" fad is silly too but with vaping it has to do with what they treat the cotton with. If you don't use organic you are going to want to boil it a few times or else it will taste like the south end of a north bound billy goat.

 

[aznnp77]

Here's a good video on rebuilding PT coils with silica.
IMO, rebuilding PT heads is far too much of a PITA. If you are gonna rebuild coils buy a RTA (Kayfun) and go at it. Much more rewarding.

Kanger Protank Bottom Coil Rebuild HD Close Up - YouTube

I find the opposite to be true, unless you have large hands or something. With a PT, all you have to do is wrap it, put it between the 2 cutouts in the coil, push 1 lead up, and push the rubber insulator in and you're done.

With my KFL, I have to align it in the middle, get the leads around each of the 2 screw posts (that actually takes me a long time, then screw each post down without messing the alignment.

Then you have to ..... up the coil to make sure it's not touching the middle, and make sure it doesn't go down and touch after you've made a much bigger wick and had to shove it back down into that area.

It takes me probably 20-30 minutes to clean and recoil my KFL. It takes me less than 5 to clean and rebuild a PT coil.

Thanks everyone.

I don't want to waste this silica so in the mean time I'm going to keep using this.

A question, can the wire be coiled be really close together as long as it doesn't touch the sides of the metal thing? ...

I know with micro cooling it touches.

Yeah, I know you don't want to waste the silica, but cotton/rayon is much easier to work with and from the looks of it, will save you some time, not to mention it tastes much better and works better as well.

With organic cotton you know it doesn't have any bleaching or chemicals in it, so you don't have to boil it or anything. I found that part to be extremely tedious and eventually threw the whole batch out because I couldn't get all the water out of the cotton and was scared it would develop mold.

 

[Nightshard]

I find the opposite to be true, unless you have large hands or something. With a PT, all you have to do is wrap it, put it between the 2 cutouts in the coil, push 1 lead up, and push the rubber insulator in and you're done.

With my KFL, I have to align it in the middle, get the leads around each of the 2 screw posts (that actually takes me a long time, then screw each post down without messing the alignment.

Then you have to ..... up the coil to make sure it's not touching the middle, and make sure it doesn't go down and touch after you've made a much bigger wick and had to shove it back down into that area.

It takes me probably 20-30 minutes to clean and recoil my KFL. It takes me less than 5 to clean and rebuild a PT coil.

I second that.
And don't forget that if you build a kayfun and refill it with e-liquid and then figure out you did something wrong your screwed, you need to empty it and then it's all sticky and dripping all over the place.

 

[FallenRawToast]

Thanks everyone. This thread has been of great help. I look forward to trying out a coil with silica tomorrow, and also a cotton one (will be using 100% cotton, not organic). I think the whole 'you got to buy organic' a bit silly.

I will update this thread with pics of my success - hopefully!

I agree normally, but the reason you want to go with organic cotton, is because it is bleached with hydrogen peroxide, which breaks down into water, soon enough. Where as with "normal" cotton, they bleach it with BLEACH, or other such chlorine based bleaching agents. Yes they rinse it, but considering how cheap organic cotton balls are these days, well worth it, so you dont have to muck about with boiling the cotton in distilled water, etc etc.

Mostly, it is just to give you as neutral taste wick, and a little bit, to just make sure you dont vape bleach (which the company.."should" of rinsed off, before packaging)

 

[Inception]

Use cotton I love cotton it works so well and imo wicks better too

 

[TFL!]

This is what I do

1. 3mm silica wick, wrap the 32 gage wire on 4-40 screw in the threads.
2. On thread coil from screw and mount in head
3. Fire the head and check ohm.
4. Cut about a 10: piece of silica Then dip your silica end in hot bees wax and roll it to a tapering point.
5. Thread it threw the coil pull or twist it. Leve about 2"
6. Be sure to torch the silica end that is not dipped in wax
7. Thread it threw the rest of the way and cut off.
8. 2mm Silica I use a 2mm screw. I use a 1/16: drill bit to hold it in alignment when I mount it.
This is what I found works for me.

 

[ThomasC]

So I am getting somewhere, but it's too airy. I have tightened up my kanger air flow thingy bob, but there's still this really airy noise.











After holding down the button for say over 5 seconds the airy noise disappears. Good vapor and taste, but just the airy sound. ????

 

[ThomasC]

So this time I did another one, but wrapped it much closer together. I thought my problem might have been how spaced out the coils were.

No problems now. Just the normal popping sound you get.

This one registered 2.5 ohms.



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