LOL I promise I won't, I'm already placing an order for a 10 pack and more voltmeters, more exotic woods etc. I just know I'll have a bunch of jealous vaper friendsJust don't let Tommy's brother hook it up for you
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Well I got me buddies box with a 2596 installed and ready to cut and size the door. I'll post pics when it's done for the mod Porn to start, lol
Thanks Quigs. Received my chip. A bit larger than i envisioned so will have to rethink my planned enclosure. Looking forward to building it when time allows.
OK VV Guru's. I made my first attempt at a VV Mod, and it actually WORKED, lol. A freind wanted a VV Mod for work and wanted a Auburn box. So even tho I'm a BAMA man, I broke down and made it for him, lol. It's actually easier than I was thinking it would be seeings how I never attempted one. Thanx to help from Quigs, I'll be doing another for myself with hid 2596. Might even step out on a limb and include a LED for it, lol Now let the Mod PORN Begin, lol
Awesome first attempt!...I do have one concern, by covering the reg with what looks like silicon you aren't giving it a chance to shed heat...LM2596's are a switching reg and don't build a lot of heat like the old school linear regs do but it may become an issue if you really drive it...I'd think about taking the silicone off the top components (you can still put some silicon on the back of the board to "glue" it in the box...
IDK, looks like you have your fire switch on the OUTPUT. Wrong place. The switch needs to be on the INPUT.
And all that gunk in there. If you ever looked at any of the mods made by decent modders you'll never see the insides gooped up like that. Never. These assemblies are only about ~75 - 80% efficient at the volts we use, so that other 20 - 25% will have to end up as heat, which needs to be dissipated. Almost all the eBayers selling these assemblies talk about heat sinks if you want more than 2A outta them. You have gone in the opposite direction.
And all that gunk in there. If you ever looked at any of the mods made by decent modders you'll never see the insides gooped up like that. Never. These assemblies are only about ~75 - 80% efficient at the volts we use, so that other 20 - 25% will have to end up as heat, which needs to be dissipated. Almost all the eBayers selling these assemblies talk about heat sinks if you want more than 2A outta them. You have gone in the opposite direction.
I would also ditch those batteries and opt for a pair with a better performance record, especially when stacked. The ____Fire batteries have too much variation to run with confidence in multi-cell applications. Check Orbtronics for the 2900 or 3100mAh protected cells or the hybrid Panasonic GCH18650 cells. Those cells are, IMO, top of the line and a great price to boot.
A little reading to backup my suggestion:
Test of UltraFire BRC18650 3000mAh (Red-silver)
The tests for the cells I recommended are also on that site.
Test of UltraFire BRC18650 3000mAh (Red-silver)
The tests for the cells I recommended are also on that site.
Really?...You do remember the fact that this was his "first attempt" right? cut the guy some slack, give him some props for the attempt, he built, learned, gained confidence, and will tackle the bugs one at a time...his next one will only get better...I'm sure Foxman (or anyone else for that matter) level of enthusiasm to post his/her next mod has been heightened greatly by that kind of condescension.
Thanx Willy, I took out the stuff on the top and middle before taking it to him tommorrow.
To each his own. I like my trigger switch on the output, since all my mods have meters, you need current to the board to read the meter. PITA having to press trigger switch to adjust voltage and read meter. For those that consider meters overkill or useless putting the trigger on the input is the way to go. The 27 VV mods I have made with the LM2596 all trigger on the output and they all still work. Doubt the little drain really effects the battery life.
Well my buddy LOVED the Auburn mod I made for him, so a sattisfied customer is what I was looking for, lol
Willy Don't let Willy bother ya, that's just WillyBeing Willy
I, too, have the fire switch on the outputs, just easier and simpler (like me) that way.
I have been putting the fire switch on the input side but I don't think it really matters all that much either way, both ways work
Here's my reasoning for switching the output, feel free to debate it, I love a good "constructive" discussion
Aside from post update warm re-boots, I leave my computers (I have 6 in my house) either on or asleep...I can count on 3 fingers how many times I've "cold started" my high end gamer machine in the last 6 months (to clean and re-seat bus cards and cables)...thermal stress on PC components is a killer...any energy savings is quickly wiped out when you have to replace a $400 video card
By switching the input on these regs you are "constantly" subjecting the little guy to inrush current causing thermal stress every time you hit that fire button...you are shortening it's lifespan significantly...ok, sure, they cost $2 so meh but you still have to put your mod up on the hoist, pull the reg out, break/make connections, bla, bla, bla...just to save "maybe" a cumulative 5-10 mins. a week in batt life???...I just want to vape...
I'm going to go as far as to "suggest" you switch the output, switching the input to gain runtime just doesn't pass the cost/benefit analysis test IMO...our batts are rechargeable remember?
Aside from post update warm re-boots, I leave my computers (I have 6 in my house) either on or asleep...I can count on 3 fingers how many times I've "cold started" my high end gamer machine in the last 6 months (to clean and re-seat bus cards and cables)...thermal stress on PC components is a killer...any energy savings is quickly wiped out when you have to replace a $400 video card
By switching the input on these regs you are "constantly" subjecting the little guy to inrush current causing thermal stress every time you hit that fire button...you are shortening it's lifespan significantly...ok, sure, they cost $2 so meh but you still have to put your mod up on the hoist, pull the reg out, break/make connections, bla, bla, bla...just to save "maybe" a cumulative 5-10 mins. a week in batt life???...I just want to vape...
I'm going to go as far as to "suggest" you switch the output, switching the input to gain runtime just doesn't pass the cost/benefit analysis test IMO...our batts are rechargeable remember?
I like my reasoning better - it's simpler
Good point, though, Q.
That's some damn good reasoning TC
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