Just For LM2596 Users

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TommyO

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Yeah I am thinking of adding another o-ring where the bottle screws on in case of any seepage but so far it's juice tight.

Nice use of space Tommy, the loop in the feed tube to slide the con over is a good idea...well done!...remember to keep a tight juice bottle though :)
 

TommyO

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BottomPassthrough01.jpg

I built another bottom feeder, this one is a passthrough. Of course used a LM2696. It's basically the same as the previous build but without batteries. I found a 12v cigarette lighter cord extender at Wallymart for only $5 that works perfectly.

I also added the middle section of an 18650 battery holder to keep the 6ml bottle snug in place. I still need to get some o-rings to put at the bottom of the threads in case of any seepage but so far it holds juice and feeds very well through the small loop of hose.

The blue LED's are from China, they only have two wires that are already connected and it will read 3.3-30v for only $2.78 each, not a bad price compared to the LiPo1s-6s ones everyone else has been using all along. The LED's come in a few colors as well, I just liked the blue.
 

Quigsworth

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I built another bottom feeder, this one is a passthrough. Of course used a LM2696. It's basically the same as the previous build but without batteries. I found a 12v cigarette lighter cord extender at Wallymart for only $5 that works perfectly.

I also added the middle section of an 18650 battery holder to keep the 6ml bottle snug in place. I still need to get some o-rings to put at the bottom of the threads in case of any seepage but so far it holds juice and feeds very well through the small loop of hose.

The blue LED's are from China, they only have two wires that are already connected and it will read 3.3-30v for only $2.78 each, not a bad price compared to the LiPo1s-6s ones everyone else has been using all along. The LED's come in a few colors as well, I just liked the blue.

I wish I would of snagged one of those blue meters...they look cool:p...I got tired of the cig lighter thing (too much stuff flying around) I decided to simply hard wire a 2596 right into my cars console complete with 5A fuse, off/on, meter and fem. DC jack...fits into the now vented ashtray with a plexy cover...I then made a fake batt/wire/male DC jack that just plugs in and powers any of my mods that take an 18650 batt...though it looks that I may be selling the car...hope whoever buys it vapes:)
 

BJ43

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Dieseler

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6 amp with on off switch

6A.jpg


30W DC/DC Converter Regulator Step down 6A , Input 10V-15V , Output 0.9V - 12V | eBay

With meter installed and meter switch for imput/output voltage.

DY.jpg


20W DC/DC Step down Converter Regulator combine the Red LED volt meter | eBay

It is getting very easy to make a VV mod.

Hi Bj and others, i have the bottom picture one with meter exact same thing.
Question is this all set up to read volts to atty and battery volts as well - is that what that little white switch does on that board toggle between the two ? Does anyone know if that meter stays lit all the time and or flashes all the time or can it be shut off.
The box it will be going in has a master on/off switch only reason why i ask.
Thanks
 

Quigsworth

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I've yet to become fluent in ebaynese...but I've read a few of these...I would say that the meter will always be on one way or another, either reading the "in" or the "out"...if the little LED beside the push button is lit, it's reading the "in", if it's off, it's reading the "out"...but I've been wrong a billion times before, so close your eyes and flip a coin :laugh:
 

BJ43

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Dieseler

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Put the LM2596 in 4 AA box today very easy to attach wires and it work well when tested.
The meter lights only when atty switch is pushed and toggles between input or output voltage when little white button is pressed on the board.

I had to sand carefully the side of board and a little off the plastic battery separator as it would not fit, now fits snug, also took off the legs on the board. VV box mod 1.jpgVV Box Mod 2.jpg
 

TomCatt

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First off, you don't want to hook a PT into a computer. Most USB ports on a computer are only rated for 0.5A. You want a powered USB hub to run a PT.
Next, you need ~2V more input over output; so with the 5V from a USB source, you'll only have a max of 3 - ~3.5V.

For LM2596 PT, just use a DC jack and AC adapter. My ACDC mod uses a DC jack and a 12V/2A AC adapter.
 

Foxman

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First off, you don't want to hook a PT into a computer. Most USB ports on a computer are only rated for 0.5A. You want a powered USB hub to run a PT.
Next, you need ~2V more input over output; so with the 5V from a USB source, you'll only have a max of 3 - ~3.5V.

For LM2596 PT, just use a DC jack and AC adapter. My ACDC mod uses a DC jack and a 12V/2A AC adapter.

How bout a wall plug adapter for the pass thru?
 
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