Just got a tugboat v1 mech cylinder clone curious about build
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I'll add this you are not taking into account, I am assuming your 2.5ohm you are meaning 0.25ohms which is more in line with Kanthal A1 24awg 5 to 6 wrap dual coils. There are a lot of limiting factors regarding the current ability (amps) of a battery, yes, by the math a brand new LG or Sony 20amp CDR battery can handle 0.25ohms as it rates out to lower than 20amps.
1) Never push batteries to their limits or over and above their limits, especially when starting out with a mechanical, and especially 10x more times dealing with a direct atomizer to battery connection mod like your tuglyfe you have there, reasons follow the list below
2) The biggest killer of of Lithium based batteries is heat, wether that be through ambient temperature (thus why you never throw a battery into an open flame), charging or discharging a battery, to rapid a charge the battery internal resistance to being charged causes it to heat up internally, thus it is suggested with an 18650 never regularly charge them above 1 amp input. Discharging a battery as you reach a battery's max CDR internal temperature rises, damage begins to happen internally at the 80C Degrees mark, about 120C some batteries can begin to start venting due to internal pressure (especially if an old battery) around 200 to 250C can lead to full on thermal runaway, especially when over and above the rated CDR of a battery. Each charge and discharge adds another nail into a battery's coffin, no getting around it, excessive heat adds multiple nails into that coffin and accelerates the aging (think of the analogy of simmering a stew, the heat chemically blends all chemical components together into a new chemical makeup).
3) As batteries age, they lose their Mah (measurement of how long they can hold a charge), Mah coupled with the manufacturer's testing and rating the current of a battery (called their true "C" rating) determines maximum CDR, if either the Mah or C rating decrease, max CDR also decreases, so as the Mah decreases with age, so does the CDR. Gentle (1/4 or lower max CDR) to normal (1/4 to 1/2 the max CDR) use, a battery has an expected life span of about 12 to 18months, at this stage of aging Mah can be almost 1/2 what it left the factory with, thus potential CDR is 1/2, example those VTC5's at that age, that means 10amps CDR. High stress (50 to 75% plus max CDR) that aging accelerates (See #2 above as to why) decreasing life expectancy to about 6 months, super high stress (full CDR all the time requested) that life expectancy is decreased to 30 to 60 days (speaking from experience in my super-super-sub-ohm vaping days).
Thus with a single battery mech never build beyond:
20amp batteries 10 to 15amps max
25 amps batteries 12.5 to about 15amps
30amp batteries 15 to 20amps
This gives safety head room in case of any "UH OH" moments, unintentional auto-firing, unaccounted for shorts, and the eventual aging of the batteries.
Stay safe out there.
Jeez I'm sorry yes I meant .25!!!! 2.5 would be crazy!!!!! Thanks for catching that it's been a looooong couple weeks man we had some huge fires out here in Cali my brain ain't in straight right now!
Also
Also! The range your talking about is exactly were I was saying I felt comfortable. I want to know I have the 20 amp cap so when i have that extra room when I pull 10-15. Always good to know you have a high cap and only pull a little... for anything in life!!!!
Use your regulated mod to check resistance and for shorts. It's not appropriate for calculating amp draw on your mech. At full charge that coil is drawing just under 17A.
You are totally correct! I didn't think about that I should have seen the really big 2.6v on my screen lol. I always start on my vape tool app and go back if I have any doubts and always build on my regulated mod and try the coil for a little on It to make sure it's fine. The pic below is what I was actually aiming for and my builds have been getting more accurate but not 100% yet
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You'll rarely get a result that's bang on what your calculations show, and that's ok. So long as the result is fairly close to what was expected, no problem.
I'm usually within .02 which I have read is ok and I recalculate or rebuild the coils if they're not right. Sometimes I don't mind wasting the wire sometimes I say I'll try it and see. And it's always logical of I have a different resistance I can plainly see the mistake I made as aposed to having no idea why it's a different resistance and saying .... it.
Sony VTC5's are 30A if memory serves, got 4 of them myself. Out of curiosity, why go mech? With modern regulated devices, I don't really see the need. Unnecessary risk IMO.
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That is a good question! Like I said this is my first mech. I love my regulated mods but hey don't bash it til you try it right? I feel safe with the mech I got keeping my builds in a safe range and doing my research and i find it nice to vape. However If I had to choose a mod for on the go work or any time I could be distracted, regulated all the way!!!!
Lol yeah, curiosity I guess. Was tempted myself at one stage to get a mech, but decided against it cause I'm a bit scatterbrained at times, and too much hassle 4 me.
Enjoy the MOD!
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I am as well!!! I also don't like things that go boom. I also realized and I'll keep it out of the forum other than this.. but I ran bho for a long time and safety pays off 100% also!!! If you are scatterbrained I just got a vgod rdta half off haha would pay full price but a steal for 30 marked down from 70..the tank on the bottom is simply amazing
Using a Voopoo (whomever named the company should be shot) Drag with a smok TV8 Tank at the moment, had a Smok Gpriv tc220W b4 but touchscreen crapped out on me, hence my return to a more old school box MOD [emoji13]. Love my current setup 2 much 2 change! Lol.
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Highlighted in red, not true. The VTC5 is a 20amp CDR battery not 30amp CDR, where the VTC5A is 25amp CDR, the VTC4 again is 20amp, the VTC3 was the only real battery in Sony's line ever rated around 30amp CDR.
Please update your info/rolodex accordingly please
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