Just got my i-atty genesis from fasttech

[edyle]

how to dismantle my genesis?

been trying to open it up; can't seem to separate the metal pieces from the top and bottom of the glass tank....

maybe it has to unscrew?

the coil also only measures 1 ohm, and my vv-usb-minipassthru doesnt like that. there's 3 spare wires i can use so no problem.

i want to give it a wash and a soak before i use it.

 

[savagemann]

Yes, I believe it has to unscrew.
Take off the positive screw and upper parts and unscrew it.

 

[edyle]

ok, tried unscrewing and it ended up working out; not the way i thought it might but got it open


top piece actually unscrewed off of something; wouldn't have had a clue that was susspose to unscrew- its just smooth, no hex no knurling nothing.

soaking now

 

[bulldog63h]

Cool. I had one of those attys. They are decent . Just watch the top cap. It wasn't very tight and I lost it in two days. I had my mod in my pocket while doing some work on the farm and the cap popped off. I now have an unusable I-atty. Just watch out for that.

 

[edyle]

Cool. I had one of those attys. They are decent . Just watch the top cap. It wasn't very tight and I lost it in two days. I had my mod in my pocket while doing some work on the farm and the cap popped off. I now have an unusable I-atty. Just watch out for that.

Thanks; so that's the cap with the airhole in it that you are talking about, right?



I'm not particularly worried anyway;s its my first rebuildable, so I kinda think of it as the classic that im supposed to practice on.


the main thing about it i find is its actually smaller - like half the size that I kind of expected; by that I mean, I really thought it would have been a nice big clunky thing I could wrap my fist around,;

the screws for screwing down the wires dont look like the kind of screw i might easily replace if i lost one

 

[bulldog63h]

Yeah, it's a nice place to start. It is a bit easier than the AGA-T2 because the distance to the posative post is much shorter. That is indeed the cap I was talking about. I got mine in person. The only genesis atty I had to order was the RSST, so I knew their size before I bought them. I'm like you, I think those screws would be difficult to replace if one was lost. I wish you lots of luck with it.

 

[edyle]

Ok so I took out the short wire that was in it and wrapped one out of the 3 longer wires that were supplied and I'm up to 2 ohms now.

It looks like I have a hotspot? It's not as bad as it was earlier; I had about a 5 mm piece of straight wire running from the mesh to the post was red; I guess the mesh helps dissipate the heat; maybe I need to bend the top of the mesh closer to the post to get rid of that hotspot...

 

[edyle]

ok; first vape,.

not as foggy as my clearo so far; I primed the coil area with eliq so there should be enough; maybe it will get better if it soaks some more; the wick it came with looks like a silica wick wrapped on the outside with mesh;

oh;;; the airhole; there is only just the one airhole; so its going to make a difference WHERE I put that airhold compared to the coil!!!

 

[edyle]

Well it's been 3 days or at least this a day number 3 with my I-Atty from Fasttech:

The pic shows what I did receive; the tank was assembled with coil and wick, as shown and there are spare rubber rings, 3 spare resistance wires, and a spare steel mesh wick with white fabric (silica wick I expect) rope inside the steel mesh.

The wick that is preinstalled seems the same constuction as the spare.
The preinstalled coil was also as shown above! With rather too few wraps and too low ohms; I think it was reading about 1 ohm, maybe 1.5 when I checked; I took it out and used one of the spares because the spare was longer wire, and I'm pretty sure I got it over 2 ohms; gotta leave enough room for unintended shorts from all that metal to metal contact on that atomizer.

Dissambling was a bit picky; the lack of roughness on the main round metal piece left me uncertain as to whether I should attempt to unscrew - yes it unscrews but first you have to unscrew a couple things on top.

One of the preinstalled orings was kind of melted against the glass (and yes, it IS glass!); I was able to peel it off; it's still in use; I guess one has to choose between vaping plastic, or else some rubber; I'll take the rubber;

Put in to soak in hot water for an hour or two.

For quite a while there was a metally taste which I assumed was from the steel mesh; but by the next day either that taste was gone or maybe I'm used to it and can't taste it anymore.

One thing I do NOT like about this tank, is I can't fill it with my needlebottle!! I guess if my needle bottle had a longer needle it would work but because the needle is only about half inch long and the dimensions and shape of the atomizer and the bottle do not allow the needle to get down far enough inside - the needle gets into the hole but does not go far enough down that you can see it inside the tank; instead the needle is just maybe halfway down the hole in the metal and when I squeeze the bottle, the eliquid just fills the hole but the thick liquid won't go down that small 2 millimeter hole; instead it just accumulates on the top deck.

So instead I have to use the SYRINGE!!! ARRRRRGGGG. I hate having to use a syringe for my eliquids, and I definitely do Not want to be doing that at work with people watching. Don't want people thinking drugs and junkies stuff. The needle bottle was a tolerable compromise; I'd rather just pour from bottle to tank but then there might be a miss or liquid goes on center post, or mess over the place.

Also the screw itself that plugs the fillhole is small and therefore difficult to manage; on the plus side I suppose, it seems to be the same size as the screw holding down one side of the coil; thats another point; the screw holding down the other side of the coil is an entirely different size altogether! If i lose one of these screws its going to be a problem.

So far this tank seems to vape better on a full tank.

Now, the wick goes down one side inside the tank, and the top piece that covers the deck has ONE hole, so I orient the hole (air intake hole) to line up with the top of the mesh, so the airflow will run over the coil and up the mouthpiece; I'm supposed to experiment with moving it but haven't yet... because common sense says no point, but I really should try it the opposite way- maybe I'll get a surprise.
.....
Ok well, 1 minute later, surprise surprise; so far it looks like moveing that hole doesn't make things dramatically different; in which case I should just put the hole where I happen to like it which is pointing upwards so that when I 'puff' into the mouthpiece I see a shoot of 'smoke' going upwards vertically right in front of my eyes so I can tell semisubconciously that my thingy is working;


What I like about this, is the possibilities;
- I wonder how long I can use this thing without having to wash or change the wick; feels like I definitely could get a good week and probably a month on 1 wick.
- I could drill a second hole in the deck and add a second wick , and a second coil!
- the mouthpiece/driptip it turns out it is painted metal; I ended up wrapping plummer mate on it because if the metal gets to hot as it did sometimes, it bothered my lips.

 

[Kemosabe]

be careful tightening the pos screw (the one on the center post). it strips easily.

with the fat screw heads, i decided this genny would be good for flat ribbon kanthal. and i was right

my top cap started out incredibly tight. but after a bit of use, the o-rings became lubed from ejuice. in order to keep you top cap snug, remember to occasionally wipe out the moisture from the top cap and o-rings. youll get a much more solid grip that way.

for filling, heres what i do: take your eliquid bottle and squeeze the air out of it. with the bottle squeezed in your hand, put the drip top to the fill hole of the atty. then allow the bottle to reclaim air while its up against the fill hole. this sucks air out of the tank and allows room for juice. remove the bottle and squeeze the air out of it again. now VERY slowly, start squeezing juice into the atty. start incredibly slowly and you should not see too much juice pooling on your deck. this technique works for me when im too lazy to get off the couch and grab a syringe and it oughta work for you until you purchase a syringe. hint: go to CVS and ask the pharmacy for a free syringe. i told them exactly what i was using it for and they handed two over like it was their job.
alternatively, they do make needle top dropper bottles. looks less like a :junkie:
another tactic could be to loosen your neg lead when filling to allow air to escape. but you dont want to mess up your build when youre first learning so maybe table that idea.

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

View attachment 294904

Ok so I took out the short wire that was in it and wrapped one out of the 3 longer wires that were supplied and I'm up to 2 ohms now.

It looks like I have a hotspot? It's not as bad as it was earlier; I had about a 5 mm piece of straight wire running from the mesh to the post was red; I guess the mesh helps dissipate the heat; maybe I need to bend the top of the mesh closer to the post to get rid of that hotspot...

Is that 30 gauge wire?
I take 32 gauge, fold it in half, twist with a paperclip in a drill chuck, wrap it that way, for some reason the twisted kanthal doesn't hotspot, 7 wraps and I am sitting right on 2 ohms, when I wrap 30ga wire, I had to do like 12 wraps.

I also use the drillbit method and it works perfectly every time



P.S. be very careful with the positive screw, don't tighten it too tight, the very thin screw threading will snap off

 

[edyle]

be careful tightening the pos screw (the one on the center post). it strips easily.

with the fat screw heads, i decided this genny would be good for flat ribbon kanthal. and i was right

my top cap started out incredibly tight. but after a bit of use, the o-rings became lubed from ejuice. in order to keep you top cap snug, remember to occasionally wipe out the moisture from the top cap and o-rings. youll get a much more solid grip that way.

for filling, heres what i do: take your eliquid bottle and squeeze the air out of it. with the bottle squeezed in your hand, put the drip top to the fill hole of the atty. then allow the bottle to reclaim air while its up against the fill hole. this sucks air out of the tank and allows room for juice. remove the bottle and squeeze the air out of it again. now VERY slowly, start squeezing juice into the atty. start incredibly slowly and you should not see too much juice pooling on your deck. this technique works for me when im too lazy to get off the couch and grab a syringe and it oughta work for you until you purchase a syringe. hint: go to CVS and ask the pharmacy for a free syringe. i told them exactly what i was using it for and they handed two over like it was their job.
alternatively, they do make needle top dropper bottles. looks less like a :junkie:
another tactic could be to loosen your neg lead when filling to allow air to escape. but you dont want to mess up your build when youre first learning so maybe table that idea.

I've discovered now that I can overtighten the cylinder under the top pos bighead screw; wierd.

btw there ain't no CVS in my country.
And I have a syringe; and I use it for the genny; I have a needle bottle too; but the length of the needle is only half inch; if it were an inch it should work;

 

[edyle]

Is that 30 gauge wire?
I take 32 gauge, fold it in half, twist with a paperclip in a drill chuck, wrap it that way, for some reason the twisted kanthal doesn't hotspot, 7 wraps and I am sitting right on 2 ohms, when I wrap 30ga wire, I had to do like 12 wraps.

I also use the drillbit method and it works perfectly every time



P.S. be very careful with the positive screw, don't tighten it too tight, the very thin screw threading will snap off

That's a neat little thing I'll keep in mind.

 

[edyle]

I seem to be having some kind of leak problem amazingly enough!

I guess something in the middle is not screwed down properly / too loose and eliq must be seeping down the center pin.

- oh; and the problem with the leak is not the loss of eliquid; the problem is the interference with the voltage; I see the effect on the indicator light on the battery/powersource.

hopefully its just my inexperience and when I finish the tank and take it down and put it back together it will be tight next time and never leak again; I'd rather bottom coil, but at least with a top coil I imagine I should not get a leak to battery problem.