Just Stainless Steel Wick and Filler

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Alžběta Madragana

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Wyjoe what gage NiChrome or Kanthal are you planning to use for your coils? I've tried out both 32 & 34 Gage and like the 32 Gage best. It seems to last longer than the 34 Gage does, at least for me.
And Wing, I see you finally got a Line - good for you! Let us know how it's doing. (yeah, I know, haven't been here for awhile, so I'm trying to catch up on stuff!)
 

wyojoe

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Alžběta Madragana;5617800 said:
Wyjoe what gage NiChrome or Kanthal are you planning to use for your coils? I've tried out both 32 & 34 Gage and like the 32 Gage best. It seems to last longer than the 34 Gage does, at least for me.
And Wing, I see you finally got a Line - good for you! Let us know how it's doing. (yeah, I know, haven't been here for awhile, so I'm trying to catch up on stuff!)
I have only ordered the 400 mesh, and have not ordered any wire yet. When I do at your suggestion I will order the 32 Gage. THANKS
 

WIvapor

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I am here looking for some advice from the SS mesh experts. I have a G-tank US that I have set-up as a dripper. I have tried using 325 mesh more than once and always give up. Instead I use silica wick with 32g kanthal 6 wraps about 2.2 ohms. With this set-up I get tons of vapor and wonderful flavor. When I use the SS, vapor is poor and every few hits are the awful burnt taste. I've tried rolling the mesh around a small paper clip and also without. I've rolled it tight and loose. Its always the same, poor wicking of the juice. The coil is not shorting, I don't have a problem with oxidizing the SS. I've about had it with the SS can anybody help me figure this out?
 
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slimest

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WIvapor, I use Genesis, and for me there are some important points to prepare a heater.
1. Don't use a stainless wick longer than 30 mm, if your liquid is in lower tank.
2. Always boil SS mesh in water before wick prepare.
3. The wick outer diameter should be about 2 mm. It's optimal. I roll it tight enough and make something like tube.
4. The mesh width should be about 14 mm, not more.
5. Always bend upper part of the mesh (about 4-5 mm), it will be positioned above the heater spiral and hold two times more liquid.

P.S. A use a sewing needle instead of paper clips. Easier to find an optimal diameter and easier to remove after preparing.
 
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slimest

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What do you mean by that slimest? I don't understand, got a pic of it?
Sorry, it's my poor English, I guess. I mean that if you use Genesis, you always have to leave about 5 mm of wick above the heater. This piece will work as a liquid accumulator. I make my wicks with this part (above the heater) two-sided. 2 times more mesh, two times more liquid in this compartment. Just bend about 5 mm of the mesh in the upper side, then make a wick.
Of course you can also make this upper part just longer. I think, it will work too.
 
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Stonefather

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i dont know if this is possible..but I have read that the stainless steel is rendered non conductive due to oxidizing with tap water, but is it possible that my tap water is too clean...I have heated and put in water dozens of time and still end up with a short. I am using 36g nichrome 60.
 

egodzilla

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Sorry, it's my poor English, I guess. I mean that if you use Genesis, you always have to leave about 5 mm of wick above the heater. This piece will work as a liquid accumulator. I make my wicks with this part (above the heater) two-sided. 2 times more mesh, two times more liquid in this compartment. Just bend about 5 mm of the mesh in the upper side, then make a wick.
Of course you can also make this upper part just longer. I think, it will work too.

Haaa! I understand now! :D That is an idea actually worth trying. Thanx for the tip!

bbulich23 I think quenching in water has noting to do with oxidation only burning ir red hot does. So you just need to burn it red hot a few times, lets say 3 or 4. Then try priming it with juice and seeing it on fire. I guess that makes a bit of a carbon deposit, that acts as an insulator as well. You got many videos around showing it ...
 

Stonefather

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Haaa! I understand now! :D That is an idea actually worth trying. Thanx for the tip!

bbulich23 I think quenching in water has noting to do with oxidation only burning ir red hot does. So you just need to burn it red hot a few times, lets say 3 or 4. Then try priming it with juice and seeing it on fire. I guess that makes a bit of a carbon deposit, that acts as an insulator as well. You got many videos around showing it ...

i have done this at least 30 40 times..still getting a short
 

asdaq

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Bay Area tap water is too clean?? :laugh: I know SoCal isn't, no one drinks it. The quenching leaves mineral deposits on the mesh and oxidizes it. I burn drops of juice on the mesh and get the buildup from this. Just choose a bottle of something you don't like the flavor of and use this. Also, quenching with juice between burns helps speed up the process and holding it upright so the flame travels downward and gets the mesh to glow.
 

l3oertjie

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Bay Area tap water is too clean?? :laugh: I know SoCal isn't, no one drinks it. The quenching leaves mineral deposits on the mesh and oxidizes it. I burn drops of juice on the mesh and get the buildup from this. Just choose a bottle of something you don't like the flavor of and use this. Also, quenching with juice between burns helps speed up the process and holding it upright so the flame travels downward and gets the mesh to glow.

OK, :blush: so, if Bay area tap water is so clean why not contaminate it with a bit of soluble mineral oil? Just a thought....
 
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