K-go battery dead in 31 days

[FRANKSTER]

Vgo is like Kgo, Riva, Ego - not a mod

I think BB is looks cute and simple oh you have Silver Bullet. BB is its baby

But if you are going to use 1.5 ohm you probably want something bigger. BB only has a 14500 battery (or 14650 if they get the extender in stock).

14500 protected is 900mah and SW IMR which holds the voltage up better is 600mah. So with an AW IMR and 1.5 ohms you might only get 2-3 hours of vaping if you are a heavy vaper

Do you own a PT yet? A PT will let you vape off AC (w/ a 2amp USB to AC adapter). And the kind with an inline battery is the battery's voltage (3.4 or 3.7) and it charges the battery while you vape it.

Thanks for all your advice, you are very helpful...my question is...if the 1.5 ohm is too low for the ego style, what can the 1.5 be used for?

 

[FRANKSTER]

Thanks for all your advice, you are very helpful...my question is...if the 1.5 ohm is too low for the ego style, what can the 1.5 be used for?

By the way...what is a pt?

 

[FRANKSTER]

I meant the last message for dormouse...sorry

 

[mynameisrob]

The kGo battery should def not die that quickly.
If you want a tube mod that's a 3.7V like the kGo if get the Epower. I have one and love it. Replacement batteries cost $4 compared to kGo/riva/ego batteries that are $14-20.
If you are gona get the Epower I would get it at crystal clear vaping.
You'll get a FREE 5 pack of Ressurector cartos, a FREE 30ml juice of your choice and FREE shipping. It's about $25 of free stuff.
Put in "ecf5off" and youllget 5% off the order.

 

[FRANKSTER]

The kGo battery should def not die that quickly.
If you want a tube mod that's a 3.7V like the kGo if get the Epower. I have one and love it. Replacement batteries cost $4 compared to kGo/riva/ego batteries that are $14-20.
If you are gona get the Epower I would get it at crystal clear vaping.
You'll get a FREE 5 pack of Ressurector cartos, a FREE 30ml juice of your choice and FREE shipping. It's about $25 of free stuff.
Put in "ecf5off" and youllget 5% off the order.

Thank you...I will look over at their site.

 

[mynameisrob]

The 1.5ohm will work well on a 3.7v. Smoktek makes a dual coil carto specifically designed for the Epower and it's 1.5ohm and holds over 5ml of juice and it works really well

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

By the way...what is a pt?

In answer to your question, a pt is a passthrough battery....some pt, you are tethered to your pc or usb port....others like the ego pt you can vape while charging, then unplug and it vapes just like a reg ego.....pretty handy to have... especially if you spend a lot of time in your vehicle, get a usb that plugs into your cig charger and never run out of power....charge while driving, unplug and go.

 

[ShEiTaN]

I actually just switched from kgo to e-power because I wasn't quite ready to invest in a mod. All I can say is it's worth every penny!

 

[mynameisrob]

In glad to hear you Like your Epower sheitan!
Did you end up ordering the hi drain batteries I recommend?

 

[FRANKSTER]

The 1.5ohm will work well on a 3.7v. Smoktek makes a dual coil carto specifically designed for the Epower and it's 1.5ohm and holds over 5ml of juice and it works really well

Hi there...I thought it was mentioned in this thread that a reason for the malfunction of my e-ko could be due to the fact I was running a 1.5 ohms. But you are saying that the 1.5 will run ok on a 3.7 volt...are you just talking about a dual coil...little confused.

 

[JD1]

By the way...what is a pt?

A pt is short for pass through. For the best price I've seen on one, take a look at the link provided by tj99959 in this thread. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-cheap-passthrough-my-answer.html#post4552185

If you decide to try a straight through pt like that one, be sure and pick up a 2 amp (2000 ma) usb converter for it--do NOT plug it unto your computer. They put out close to 5 volts. I have a 2 amp usb converter for the auto as well.

I have an e-power and love it, but if you're planning on using the 1.5 ohm atty, I don't recommend it because it's regulated with the same type circuit as the ego/kgo type batteries. Even the 1.6 ohm duel coil puts a lot of stress on them, and a few folks have had failures. You should be ok at 1.7 ohms.

Since you like high powered vaping, you might want to check out 5 volt vaping or vv.

Edit: I should add that lot's of folks have used 1.5 ohms on their e-power (including me) and haven't had any problems. But I still recommend a straight mechanical device like a roughstack or an sb if you're going to use 1.5 on a regular basis. I've seen several threads where folks recommend high drain batteries for those devices as well.

 

[FRANKSTER]

A pt is short for pass through. For the best price I've seen on one, take a look at the link provided by tj99959 in this thread. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-cheap-passthrough-my-answer.html#post4552185

If you decide to try a straight through pt like that one, be sure and pick up a 2 amp (2000 ma) usb converter for it--do NOT plug it unto your computer. They put out close to 5 volts. I have a 2 amp usb converter for the auto as well.

I have an e-power and love it, but if you're planning on using the 1.5 ohm atty, I don't recommend it because it's regulated with the same type circuit as the ego/kgo type batteries. Even the 1.6 ohm duel coil puts a lot of stress on them, and a few folks have had failures. You should be ok at 1.7 ohms.

Since you like high powered vaping, you might want to check out 5 volt vaping or vv.

Edit: I should add that lot's of folks have used 1.5 ohms on their e-power (including me) and haven't had any problems. But I still recommend a straight mechanical device like a roughstack or an sb if you're going to use 1.5 on a regular basis. I've seen several threads where folks recommend high drain batteries for those devices as well.

thank you so much

 

[swedishfish]

Hi there...I thought it was mentioned in this thread that a reason for the malfunction of my e-ko could be due to the fact I was running a 1.5 ohms. But you are saying that the 1.5 will run ok on a 3.7 volt...are you just talking about a dual coil...little confused.

I don't think so. People like to say that here, especially new people for some reason. Did it state anything on their site? That's all I've used since I've started vaping and so do all the people I know that vape. No one I know has had an issue and batteries have all lasted 6 months + using LR cartos.

You'll drain batteries faster, maybe they don't last quite as long. But my $15 batteries have all lasted 6 months so I've gotten my money's worth. Contact the supplier you purchased the kit from.

 

[Strigoi]

If you want a cheap mod, check out the 2xAA box mod from Mad Vapes, they have them for $24 assembled. They run a 14500 battery at 3.7v. I've got one and use it way more than my Silver Bullet.

 

[FRANKSTER]

I don't think so. People like to say that here, especially new people for some reason. Did it state anything on their site? That's all I've used since I've started vaping and so do all the people I know that vape. No one I know has had an issue and batteries have all lasted 6 months + using LR cartos.

You'll drain batteries faster, maybe they don't last quite as long. But my $15 batteries have all lasted 6 months so I've gotten my money's worth. Contact the supplier you purchased the kit from.

Thank you for input...I am not that concerned about the batteries...I have had so many problems with vendors thus far, I am just going to let it go. I am more concerned on what I do with 1.5 ohms though. You say you have had no problems...are you running 1.5 or 1.7?

 

[FRANKSTER]

If you want a cheap mod, check out the 2xAA box mod from Mad Vapes, they have them for $24 assembled. They run a 14500 battery at 3.7v. I've got one and use it way more than my Silver Bullet.

Thanks for the info

 

[swedishfish]

Thank you for input...I am not that concerned about the batteries...I have had so many problems with vendors thus far, I am just going to let it go. I am more concerned on what I do with 1.5 ohms though. You say you have had no problems...are you running 1.5 or 1.7?

I personally didn't, although I usually use either the 2.0 boge or the 1.7 from CCV. I have used 1.5 dcc. I have found for me that the battery needs to be charged more frequently. That's not to say that no one will have a problem. I vape a lot, but not a huge amount. I also usually have around 3 pvs going, so I don't keep hitting the same pv every time or hitting it non-stop.

 

[FRANKSTER]

I personally didn't, although I usually use either the 2.0 boge or the 1.7 from CCV. I have used 1.5 dcc. I have found for me that the battery needs to be charged more frequently. That's not to say that no one will have a problem. I vape a lot, but not a huge amount. I also usually have around 3 pvs going, so I don't keep hitting the same pv every time or hitting it non-stop.

Thanks...I like those 1.7...thus far, those have worked the best for me.

 

[BCman]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/madvapes/127262-about-low-resistance-specific-batteries.html
great info if ya dont mind a long read.

but to some it up...

3 batteries and 3 batteries only that are going to push LR atties (to their capability)without damaging the battery...
about any 18650
AW IMR 16340
AW IMR 14500
and that's the cold truth of it...

1) - Placing a load greater than the maximum drain rate (mah x C) shortens the life of a Lithium cell regardless of its specific chemistry. The symptom of this type of damage is a reduced capacity over time... it gradually will no longer hold as big of a charge.

2) - Placing a dead short will cause an unprotected cell to overheat. This could be very bad... You might compare it to sucking on a stick of tnt. There are many horror stories on the net about lithium cells exploding. The overheating causes them to build up very high pressure hydrogen gas. If the cell does not explode, it will be damaged to the point where it no longer produces enough current to operate the atty. Unprotected cell + dead short = bad situation!

3) - Factory made ecig batteries do not ever actually turn off. They use a type of power transistor called a MOSFET as an electronic switch. In trying to keep costs as low as possible to be competitive, factories use a MOSFET that is JUST BIG ENOUGH. You can kill the MOSFET slowly over a period of time by stressing it beyond its designed capacity using LR atty/cartos, or kill it instantly by stressing it WAY BEYOND its capacity.

4) - When a MOSFET dies, it either is permanently off or it is permanently on. If it decides to die in the on state, and you do not notice the atty/carto frying like bacon... it will overheat the lithium cell with possible bad outcome... see above.

I would NEVER use an atty/carto under 2 ohms on a factory battery of any brand or size. The risk is not worth the reward to me.

Use LR atty/cartos only on mods with standard lithium cells... only use protected cells... ALWAYS turn the mod off when not puffing on it! If you use a smaller cell beyond it maximum drain rating... all you will do is not reap the full benefit, and you will get a shorter cell life.

Some clarification for the e-cig users that are not engineers...

THIS is a battery; (Below)

This is an electronic cigarette power supply: (Below)

A lot of people call the power supply unit for their 510, 901, 808, eGo, etc. e-cig a "battery" and it's not a battery at all... it CONTAINS a battery... and a switch, and an LED.

In an e-cig power supply unit, the switch is a micro switch which is triggering a mosfet, which then delivers the voltage and current to the connector, firing the Atty/Carto. You don't need to know what a mosfet is, or how it works... you just need to be aware that it's in there.

In these "factory made" devices the mosfet cannot handle the load which is placed on it when used with a LR Atty/Carto, and the mosfet will fail, and has been stated, it's going to fail either in the OPEN or CLOSED position... If it fails in the OPEN position, it simply will never work again... if it fails in the closed position, it will fire the atty/carto until either the Atty/Carto burns up, or the battery explodes. Most, but not all, failures happen in the open state which is harmless.

When it fails to work, people tend to say the "battery is dead", when in fact the battery which is inside the device is probably perfectly fine...but the e-cig power supply unit has been rendered useless by the bad mosfet.

On the other hand, MODs use discreet batteries and higher current switches. An LR atty/carto doesn't present the same threat to the switch. Yes there are limitations as to the size of the battery you can use before damaging the actual battery itself, but for the purpose of Hoogies warning, this thread isn't so much about that issue...

SO... which units have mosfets, and which units are most likely going to fail when used with LR Atty/Cartos?

Pretty much everything that people start out with that looks like a cigarette in form has a mosfet, as do eGo's and all variants, Hello 16's, Screwdrivers, Sticks, 905's etc.

Here is a partial list (not exhaustive by any means)of devices that should not be used with LR Attys/cartos

510/5xx (all varieties and manufacturers)
302/3xx (all varieties and manufacturers)
901/9xx (all varieties and manufacturers)
808/8xx (all varieties and manufacturers)
eGo (all varieties and manufacturers)
vGo (all varieties and manufacturers)
Riva (all varieties and manufacturers)
Tornado (all varieties and manufacturers)
Titan (all varieties and manufacturers)
Hello 016 (all varieties and manufacturers)
Sticks (all varieties and manufacturers)
Pretty much everything else made by or branded by Joye, nJoy, Janty, Totally Wicked, East Mall, (except the indulgence, which has a replaceable switch) Boge, Bauman... heck... all of them actually.

If it started life as an e-cig, and not a "mod", you shouldn't use anything LR with it.

I hope this helps.

I'm coming in way late on this thread and I really, really wish I had seen it earlier. I have a position and opinion that differs from many of the sentiments stated here.

First off, please keep in mind that I'm probably one of the few people on this forum who actually replaces the MOSFET in his eGo/Riva class batteries. I do it on a somewhat regular basis and I know the characteristics of the MOSFET and the controller (PCB) pretty well. I have bench tested the snot out of these components.

The eGo/Riva MOSFET can and will happily deliver current to a "standard" LR (1.5Ω) in perpetuity without nary a whimper. I have never seen or had a MOSFET fail when delivering current into a standard and healthy LR atomizer/cartomizer. This represents about 2A of current, and on the bench the MOSFET can easily handle it.

The eGo/Riva MOSFET will absolutely and certainly fail when you try to run about 3A through it. This represents about a 1Ω load resistance for the eGo/Riva systems.

The eGo/Riva controller has a form of "short-circuit" protection. If you put a "dead short" (below about .5Ω actually) across the system, the controller will sense it and shut down, protecting the MOSFET. This works fine.

There is a known flaw in the protection circuit though. If you put a 3A (~1Ω) load on the system the short-circuit protection will not detect this as being a "short" and it will not protect the MOSFET or cell. Invariably the MOSFET will fail.

EVERY TIME that I have replaced a MOSFET in one of these systems I have been able to trace it back to an atomizer or cartomizer (either LR or SR) that for one reason or another had dropped to between .5Ω and 1Ω in resistance. Every time.

As an interesting additional data point. I almost exclusively use Bauway 1.8Ω LR atties that I buy from Madvapes. Invariably, after using them for a few days (heavy use, VG dark liquid) I can sense a change in vaping characteristics (warmer, heavier vape). If I pull the atty and test it I will often find that it is now running 1.5Ω or so. I could go into a lengthy explanation as to why this is happening (most people would expect it to "go open"), but I'll save that for another post.

If I don't do anything about this and continue to use the atty, it is not unusual for it to drop to 1.3Ω within the next day or so. If I'm unlucky, it will just quickly drop to 1Ω... and I will lose a MOSFET.

And before one says that this is a "LR atty only problem", I have seen similar things happen with "standard" Joye atties and the "standard" Boge cartomizers that my wife uses.

So my essential point is... this isn't a "LR atty only" issue (but it does seem to occur more often with the LR units) and it is NOT due to a 1.5Ω-1.8Ω load drawing more current than the MOSFET can deliver. This is largely due to the resistance of the atty/cartomizer changing with time and use.. and a FLAW in the load-sensing protection circuit in the eGo/Riva class systems.

this about sums it up.

The reason this is here is because Hoogie started it to explain why some people may have experienced bad power supply units.

Ok, so before everybody gets all alarmist and stuff... I want to state some stuff:

1) There is NO battery or power supply unit that is going to last forever.

2) Just because a battery will have a shorter life, OR it may die entirely, does not mean you should flat-out avoid LR Atty/cartos.

It ONLY means they will be possibly more expensive to use.

I REALLY enjoy using LR Cartos on my 510s and eGos, and I will continue to use them... I LOVE the way they perform. Yep, I've popped some 510 batteries... oh well. I haven't popped an eGo yet, but I know it will happen sooner than later.

I don't care.

SMOKING COSTS OVER 10 bucks a day here in NY... Vaping saves me so much money I can afford to whomp all over SEVERAL eGo power supplies a WEEK and still be ahead! (plus I'm saving enough to buy a new truck... amazing)


So... everybody... get back to whatever you were doing. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain... nothing to see here.

FEEL FREE TO VAPE LR with ANYTHING you wish... an early demise of a battery is SURELY better than smoking, and if you enjoy using LR, then USE IT! Just don't complain when you have hardware failures... Higher performance almost ALWAYS means lower reliability... ask anybody that owns a race car!

ENJOY VAPING LR... and STOP WORRYING!

At the end of the day we're talking about a cheap battery that costs less than two packs of smokes!

Did you complain when you were BURNING MONEY? LOL... probably... but hey, ENJOY LR... It's WAY cheaper than smoking!

</end of public service announcement>

I use the epower cause its supposed to be a 3-4? amp switch.
There is also this out now, capable of "safely" running LR attys and such(designed for 1.25 DC cartos)
Black LR eGo Battery

 

[Boodle]

Originally Posted by FRANKSTER

Hi there...I thought it was mentioned in this thread that a reason for the malfunction of my e-ko could be due to the fact I was running a 1.5 ohms. But you are saying that the 1.5 will run ok on a 3.7 volt...are you just talking about a dual coil...little confused.

I don't think so. People like to say that here, especially new people for some reason. Did it state anything on their site? That's all I've used since I've started vaping and so do all the people I know that vape. No one I know has had an issue and batteries have all lasted 6 months + using LR cartos.

You'll drain batteries faster, maybe they don't last quite as long. But my $15 batteries have all lasted 6 months so I've gotten my money's worth. Contact the supplier you purchased the kit from.

I only use low resitance supplies on the KGO. From 1.25 ohm to 2.0. They can handle dual coil, triple coil you name it. They're the only Fat Batt in their class that can take the stress of LR supplies day in and out without warnings. It's a better battery (yours isn't of course, it's defective). Search KGO 1100 here on ECF for details on that particular batt. One lasts me all day. Every make and model gets a few bad batteries in an order. Sorry it happened to you.