Keep hearing that Kamry batteries are junk as is their chargers so far i have had no issues anyone have any specific problems they can share?
Kamry Batteries
- Thread starter Bylbo Baggins
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Most people throw them out when they get them for free in a starter kit from China. Chinese vendors throw the cheapest battery and charger they can in a starter kit to make you think you are getting something of value for nothing; but that's what you are essentially getting - nothing. If you fall for that trick, I know of some cheap property to sell you.
My personal feeling is any generic no-name-brand battery isn't worth using in any mod for any reason. It's not worth the risk.
Generic batteries are re-wrapped rejects that didn't make the cut, or are harvested batteries from old laptop computers. I just don't see how anyone can put a positive spin on an unknown battery of unknown quality by an unknown manufacturer. It's easy to put a new wrap on an old or rejected battery and sell it as new. You probably can't even tell if they are an IMR, protected ICR or a non-protected ICR, which has absolutely no application in vaping.
My personal feeling is any generic no-name-brand battery isn't worth using in any mod for any reason. It's not worth the risk.
Generic batteries are re-wrapped rejects that didn't make the cut, or are harvested batteries from old laptop computers. I just don't see how anyone can put a positive spin on an unknown battery of unknown quality by an unknown manufacturer. It's easy to put a new wrap on an old or rejected battery and sell it as new. You probably can't even tell if they are an IMR, protected ICR or a non-protected ICR, which has absolutely no application in vaping.
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Which Kamry kit?
They really are rock bottom batteries and chargers and for most people it would be better to just lose them if they came in a kit. I got them with a Kamry E-Pipe and I was far from impressed.
The charger itself wasn't completing the circuit for unknown reasons until after the spring loaded contact had been slid around at least a dozen times, trying to figure out why it wasn't starting. Once it did start working it actually did a correct job, terminating the charge cycle with the battery at 4.20 volts. (About half of them don't work right and over charge.) At the same time the battery contacts in the charger are so cheesy it's easy for the battery to simply slide or pop out of place.
The 18350's included with the K1000 are true mysteriums. While they are marked as IMR @ 900 mAh I don't really trust them to be either IMR or 900 mAh. We need to know the C rating of these batteries - something I bet Kamry doesn't even know. You don't use batteries you cannot research and obtain manufacturer data for.
They really are rock bottom batteries and chargers and for most people it would be better to just lose them if they came in a kit. I got them with a Kamry E-Pipe and I was far from impressed.
The charger itself wasn't completing the circuit for unknown reasons until after the spring loaded contact had been slid around at least a dozen times, trying to figure out why it wasn't starting. Once it did start working it actually did a correct job, terminating the charge cycle with the battery at 4.20 volts. (About half of them don't work right and over charge.) At the same time the battery contacts in the charger are so cheesy it's easy for the battery to simply slide or pop out of place.
The 18350's included with the K1000 are true mysteriums. While they are marked as IMR @ 900 mAh I don't really trust them to be either IMR or 900 mAh. We need to know the C rating of these batteries - something I bet Kamry doesn't even know. You don't use batteries you cannot research and obtain manufacturer data for.
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Wow now that's what I was looking for thanks guys for the detailed info. The only real problem that I have had so far is they seem to discharge very fast like after 25 or 35 pulls on the pipe and I do see what you mean about the charger spring seems a little weak but has worked otherwise. Again do appreciate the help and I will be replacing my kamry's at my local vape shop today.
Wow. Are you using the included clearo? (Assuming a K1000 E-Pipe) If so you should be getting a lot more run time than that - the clearo coil is up in the standard resistance range.
NOTE: For a K1000 Kamry got the instructions in the manual-ette wrong. The battery should go in positive down, positive making contact with the spring in the pipe. Kamry instructions say to insert it positive up, facing the switch. Not only does that create a reversed polarity device (an in line volt/ohm checker won't work and could be damaged) and cause problems with button top 18350's having a very short switch throw, it's also the orientation to create a dead short in the switch if you have a battery with damage to the shrink wrap.
No not using the clearo included im using a Aspire mini nova right now the coil died on the included clearo in the first 3 days and started tasting burned.
I have however been using the battery as directed by Kamry with positive up and it seems to be working. So i should be placing pos down then I want to make sure I am planning on putting a Kayfun lite on this week and don't want to have any bad experiences and don't want to damage the new battery I just bought either
I have however been using the battery as directed by Kamry with positive up and it seems to be working. So i should be placing pos down then I want to make sure I am planning on putting a Kayfun lite on this week and don't want to have any bad experiences and don't want to damage the new battery I just bought either
just a quick update i replace the kamry batteries with ones from my local vape shop and i am now inserting them positive down in my K1000
and seem to be getting far more vape production(clouds) from the pipe and today the battery lasted me all day at work didn't have to replace until i got home.
Thanks again for the help
and seem to be getting far more vape production(clouds) from the pipe and today the battery lasted me all day at work didn't have to replace until i got home.
Thanks again for the help
Kamry can and does throw a lot of product onto the marketplace, but that doesn't mean it's always well thought out either. Like the K1000 is a nicely machined pipe, but the switch isn't the safest design and the instructions for battery insertion are plain wrong.
Not sure what batteries you got at the shop but if you try putting a button top battery in positive toward the switch you will see right away why that's wrong. With a button top you barely touch the switch and it fires - the throw becomes that short.
It's just a common sense thing that Kamry seems to be in denial about. This place was getting complaints/returns when people tried to attach a VV adapter to a K1000 and the Kamry battery insertion instructions where crapping it out due to the reverse polarity: The Silencer
There is a big disclaimer on their site now, warning you to not use the device with a K1000. If Kamry hadn't screwed up the battery insertion instructions this place wouldn't have had a problem. And yeah, a Silencer will work fine on a K1000 - battery positive down facing the spring.
None of this matters to your KayFun or any other tank you attached - polarity is a non issue to how the resistance in a coil works. But when it comes down to best practices, industry standards and common sense - Kamry got the battery instructions wrong.
The batteries are Efest 800 mAh button tops not my first choice would rather have the AW batteries but were not available will get them though.
Even so the efest's are performing better than the Kamry's which are flat tops by the way
Even so the efest's are performing better than the Kamry's which are flat tops by the way
Yeah, and your best choice - the AW 18350's - only come in a button top. (You can find fake AW's out there in flat top - never happened as a real AW battery.) Make sure you get AW's only from known, authorized AW vendors - there are a lot of fake AW's out there. Off the top of my head two authorized AW vendors are RTD Vapor and Sun Vapers.
Efests are ok. But when I compare the 18350's side-by-side the Efests don't have as long a life span as the AW's. The run time of my Efest 18350's started dropping within 90 days too.
Efests are ok. But when I compare the 18350's side-by-side the Efests don't have as long a life span as the AW's. The run time of my Efest 18350's started dropping within 90 days too.
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