my aerotank mini has been working flawlessly for months but recently it has stopped firing on any battery i try it on. my first instinct was to check the connection between the battery and the coil, but that doesn't seem to be the issue. then i replaced the coil and that didn't help, so i put the coil on a different tank it that fired, so I really can't figure it out. any ideas?
Kanger Aerotank Mini Issues, need help
- Thread starter gregvap
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Hello and welcome to the forum gregvap. Glad to have you here!
Sounds like the center pin of the battery is not making a connection with the atomizer of the clearomizer/tank. This usually occurs from over-tightening the tank onto the battery connector. Just make sure that if you use something conductive (metal) to pry up on the center pin that you do NOT hit the fire button while you are working on the battery. Or better yet, turn off the battery.
Center Pin Issue - Fixing a non firing eGo battery
If you continue to have problems, buy a few spacers from MadVapes. They solve all connectivity problems. Just drop one into the 510 well of your battery and you're good to go!
Sounds like the center pin of the battery is not making a connection with the atomizer of the clearomizer/tank. This usually occurs from over-tightening the tank onto the battery connector. Just make sure that if you use something conductive (metal) to pry up on the center pin that you do NOT hit the fire button while you are working on the battery. Or better yet, turn off the battery.
Center Pin Issue - Fixing a non firing eGo battery
If you continue to have problems, buy a few spacers from MadVapes. They solve all connectivity problems. Just drop one into the 510 well of your battery and you're good to go!
its weird, ill get one puff and then nothing. the problem is the atomizer, I'm sure of it. I've already messed with the pin and everything and they are touching but it still won't fire. I really can't figure this out, I've never had a problem like this one before
I would listen to Susan if I were you. If you've replaced the coil, the only thing it can be is you atomizer is not making contact with the battery. I reckon your base could be so dirty it's not making electrical contact with the ego connector for the negative connection........unlikely. The only other possibility is the positive side of the atomizer is not making contact with the pin.
If your battery is working and the coil is working--then it must be a connectivity issue--there is no other explanation. You can't really know for sure if the center posts of the atty and the battery are in contact because you can't see it. What kind of battery are you using? And are those coils brand new? Are all the o-rings in place? Nothing slipped off and gets in a way? Are they original Kanger coils? Do you have an old coil that worked well? Does it look the same as the new coil? Did you check and try to wiggle that center post on your battery--just a hair--and see if that helps?
Anyway, it's either a connectivity issue or you got a bad coils (too short?).
Try those circuit board spacers from MadVapes. I don't know why our links don't seem to working, but you can find them easily on their website. They 89 cents apiece.
One puff and then nothing means problem is in battery. Can you try with another battery?
Ive already cleaned the base, tried three different batteries, replaced the coil, moved the pin up almost all the way, cleaned off the pins to the batteries, and it still doesn't work all I'm getting now is a little hiss from it but its not enough to produce any vapor, I'm all out of ideas. My crappy back up atomizer works fine on all three batteries so its definitely not the battery.
all I'm getting now is a little hiss from it but its not enough to produce any vapor, I'm all out of ideas. My crappy back up atomizer works fine on all three batteries so its definitely not the battery.I read about tank won't fire anymore problems, and my initial reaction is also along the "must be the battery" lines, However, the details you've given us don't actually quite line up with issues from a single battery's pin being squished down. I want to make sure I'm correctly understanding this situation.
If it was the rather common issue of a squished down pin on a battery then I wouldn't think you'd get failures when trying to use the tank/atty on the other batteries, too. Unless you somehow managed to squish all your battery pins at an equal rate over time to result in them failing together. Seems unlikely. Similarly, while rechargeable batteries DO wear out and stop holding a charge eventually, it seems unlikely you've managed to max out each of their rechargeable lives at once. Hmm, I mean zero offense by asking this, but ... the batteries you're testing on ... they're all recharged, right? This isn't a case of you've managed to slowly use up the charge on all of them over time without getting them charged back up? An ego battery very near the lower end of it's charge could certainly behave like giving one puff and then stopping. Do you use the same charger for all your batteries? Could it be an issue with a failed charger giving a false indication of a finished charge? Any chance you have a multimeter or something around to test DC voltage in the range of say, 1-10 V? It needn't be anything suitable for higher voltages or AC for our purposes here.
If it was a problem with the installed core then changing the core should've solved the problem or at least changed it. Unless you've got a whole batch of wonky cores. Too low a resistance on the coils and ego batteries' protection circuits should simply refuse to fire it at all; that's the safety circuitry. Too high a resistance and you'd get effects more like it taking a really long time to produce just a little bit of mist. "One puff and then nothing" could, theoretically, be a case of the coil quickly burning out, like a circuit box fuse when you plug too much in or an outlet gets wet or something. But with the problem appearing over multiple stock cores and ego batteries ... this, too, seems unlikely.
One random thought ... on the stock Kanger cores I've seen/used with my mini Aerotank, there's a little rubbery o-ring just below the table of the core. It's meant to serve as a seal between the aerotank's base and the bottom of the core, just around those threads where you screw the core into the base. Is it possible you've somehow managed to get an extra one, perhaps from removing an old core, stuck on the base? Could there be more than one of those little o-ring seals trying to stack/squish on top of each other when you screw new cores in now? Such a situation might create an issue where it's actually the positive post/plug/pin at the bottom center of your assembled tank which sort of "creeps up" instead of the battery's positive pin "creeping down." Seems a very long shot, but check for an extra o-ring stuck in the base while you're checking other stuff?
I'm sitting here with my working tanks and mods, finding your problem perplexing yet interesting. I'm curious to find out what's going wrong! But I suspect I'd be a lot more anxious vs. fascinated if the problem was restricting my own ability to vape. You do have my sympathies! GOOD LUCK!
- Your mini aerotank used to work on multiple ego-threaded batteries/mods but doesn't behave correctly anymore on any of your batteries, right?
- You tried changing the core/head but that didn't fix it, right?
Does the "new" core/head you've tried instead appear to be the exact same size as the old, suspect one(total height and width, heights and widths of the various sections, etc. - all that looks an exact match vs. just kinda alike?) Were they both from the same pack of refills? I'm asking to rule out the possibility that you've somehow managed to get an incompatible type of new core in there by mistake. Were the coils brand new, brand name? Are you using clone replacements? Are they already used, and you're cleaning and/or rebuilding them some way or other? - The "ill get one puff and then nothing" behavior you mentioned earlier - is that consistent behavior? When you try various fixes, do you always get one puff and then no more, or sometimes does it fail in a different way, e.g. not even that single puff or a few puffs before nothing? I'm asking in case there are details that give hints to the problem's source, but it's understandable if you can't remember for sure what worked how and when.
- The failure details are exactly the same on different batteries/mods you try, or is the failure slightly different from one battery to another?
If it was the rather common issue of a squished down pin on a battery then I wouldn't think you'd get failures when trying to use the tank/atty on the other batteries, too. Unless you somehow managed to squish all your battery pins at an equal rate over time to result in them failing together. Seems unlikely. Similarly, while rechargeable batteries DO wear out and stop holding a charge eventually, it seems unlikely you've managed to max out each of their rechargeable lives at once. Hmm, I mean zero offense by asking this, but ... the batteries you're testing on ... they're all recharged, right? This isn't a case of you've managed to slowly use up the charge on all of them over time without getting them charged back up? An ego battery very near the lower end of it's charge could certainly behave like giving one puff and then stopping. Do you use the same charger for all your batteries? Could it be an issue with a failed charger giving a false indication of a finished charge? Any chance you have a multimeter or something around to test DC voltage in the range of say, 1-10 V? It needn't be anything suitable for higher voltages or AC for our purposes here.
If it was a problem with the installed core then changing the core should've solved the problem or at least changed it. Unless you've got a whole batch of wonky cores. Too low a resistance on the coils and ego batteries' protection circuits should simply refuse to fire it at all; that's the safety circuitry. Too high a resistance and you'd get effects more like it taking a really long time to produce just a little bit of mist. "One puff and then nothing" could, theoretically, be a case of the coil quickly burning out, like a circuit box fuse when you plug too much in or an outlet gets wet or something. But with the problem appearing over multiple stock cores and ego batteries ... this, too, seems unlikely.
One random thought ... on the stock Kanger cores I've seen/used with my mini Aerotank, there's a little rubbery o-ring just below the table of the core. It's meant to serve as a seal between the aerotank's base and the bottom of the core, just around those threads where you screw the core into the base. Is it possible you've somehow managed to get an extra one, perhaps from removing an old core, stuck on the base? Could there be more than one of those little o-ring seals trying to stack/squish on top of each other when you screw new cores in now? Such a situation might create an issue where it's actually the positive post/plug/pin at the bottom center of your assembled tank which sort of "creeps up" instead of the battery's positive pin "creeping down." Seems a very long shot, but check for an extra o-ring stuck in the base while you're checking other stuff?
I'm sitting here with my working tanks and mods, finding your problem perplexing yet interesting. I'm curious to find out what's going wrong! But I suspect I'd be a lot more anxious vs. fascinated if the problem was restricting my own ability to vape. You do have my sympathies! GOOD LUCK!
To answer some of your questions, the "one puff and then nothing" only happened i think 2 or 3 times. there aren't any extra o rings either. The batteries aren't worn out, one is actually brand new (and fully charged lol). As of right now i am having luck using the atomizer on an old vision spinner, but my other 2 batteries, including my brand new itaste, simply won't. However, my other tank does work on all three batteries that i have. All of the coils I've tried did come from the same pack of Kanger replacement coils, and if i screw them into the base of my back up tank they all fire, so that doesn't seem to be the problem. I think the problem is in the base itself, and since it worked for a couple months flawlessly before this problem i think something must have happened to it physically, but i can not see any damage or even a scratch on it. Also, it seems unlikely that the base itself could have broken because it seems like its built so solidly, but Im also confident that I've eliminated all other possibilities. This has got to be a rare issue, i cannot find anything like this anywhere on the internet.
Which of the various iTaste models? My iTaste SVD will tell me resistance if I ask nicely, pushing certain buttons in the proper sequence for the polite amount of time. Do you have an iTaste with that built-in ohmmeter display or even just a way of signalling open circuit and short/low res warnings via specific light flash sequences or something?
Did you buy any of this stuff from a local vendor like a B&M shop? I've found the folks at my shop to be both skilled and patient at helping me diagnose and correct my own dingbat noob mistakes. Perhaps you could try taking the stuff into the shop for them to look at and getting their help. Even if you didn't buy it from them, a local shop might be willing to take a look for you. Can't hurt to ask?
What's the make/model of this other tank?
I can see how that keeps coming back to the only reasonable conclusion from what you've been able to test/try, yeah. But I think you're right about it being a rare location for a fail point. I've spent some time examining my Kanger stuff, especially the tank systems. They strike me as pretty solid, too. Still, maybe you've got some not-so-conductive build up on some of the outer threads, either an oxide of the metals themselves or some resilient yet transparent random gunk compound, say a special blend of ejuice and pocket lint or something. (Hey, if that winds up being the answer maybe you could get a buck per mL or so for the special blend with the right adjectives and steep time recommendations before anyone calls the emperor on simply being naked!
)You said you cleaned the mini aerotank before. How'd you clean it? I wonder if you used something with a chemical that didn't play nice and/or some abrasives weren't all rinsed off afterwards. Issues similar to yours seem so often to be a problem with that battery pin and the connectivity of the positive side of the circuit, but current flows in loops. The negative side of the circuit is just as important, and it connects through the threads where the core screws into the base and the ego threads where the atty screws onto the battery.
DISCLAIMER - I am still new to vaping and vastly ignorant about the different kinds of stainless steels, which of them are commonly used in vaping equipment, and how those particular types differ from other stainless steels. So if someone comes along like, "omg, don't listen to that Luny noob or your atty will start leeching toxic chromium into your juice!" then take it at least as a sign to hold off following my suggestion below without a lot more research.
I've removed some pesky "hard water" stains and even some light rust off stainless steels (which weren't used for food or drinking water storage) by sort of gently polishing them with some baking soda paste which I then just rinsed off real well. If the chemistry of SS in mini aerotanks works similarly, I'm wondering if you could try using a q-tip or a tiny brush to give the threads in the base a gentle paste scrub to loosen any rust. I'd want to then rinse the threads, actually the entire base ring/assembly, really well in running water. Given that it's for use near the battery and e-juice, I'd shy away from cleaning afterwards with any soap or solvent I wasn't sure played well. I've seen numerous suggestions to clean atty parts by soaking in cheap vodka; I might try that after the physical polish and rinse.
The three batteries I've got are an itaste vv v3, itaste CLK 1280, and a vision spinner. Not serious mods but they should get the job done. My back up tank can only be described as a generic pro tank, it isn't made by Kanger but it resembles a full size pro tank and uses the same replacement coils. I've been cleaning the base with just plain running water, although vodka sounds like an interesting idea i don't have any, but ill get some if it turns out that that'll do the trick.
Ok, so according to the itaste vv v3 manual I found, you do have an ohmmeter, hooray! It says if you hold both the little + and - buttons down at the same time for about 2 seconds a cycle of readings will display on the little screen; the first number it displays is supposed to be the resistance measurement of the attached atomizer. It then cycles through displaying some other info. I'm pretty sure the 2 or 3 cores that came with my own mini aerotank were the dual models, but I can't remember if they were 1.5 or 1.8 Ohm versions. Anyway, I think the resistance the battery should "see" with a good kanger core installed in a good base is either 1.5, 1.8, or 2.4, depending on exactly which type.
What resistance does it say if you put working generic tank on the itaste and test? Then take that same core out of the tank's base, install it on the mini aerotank, and run the test again? You should be able to leave the tanks off for this test; they can just sit safely out of the way, upside down if they've got juice you don't want to empty or risk mixing. Just try to avoid pushing the power/fire button if there's no tank/juice to keep the wicks wet.
When using trying to use the new iTaste, do you ever see a red light that stays on steady for 5 seconds at a time? Apparently that's its signal for short or overcurrent errors.
As far as cleaning, I've seen mixed messages about the usefulness of vodka. Some people seem to swear by its usefulness as a solvent for removing buildup, while others imply it's a waste and warm tap water rinses should be sufficient. I don't know who to believe. Personally, I've not yet encountered anything on my atties that didn't seem to rinse off with tap water. I've gotten into rewicking/rebuilding the cores vs. just tossing them out and using fresh. The actual heating elements inside those cores and the wicking material through them - now that stuff gets some impressive and water-resistant gunk building up. But if you're using fresh coils then such isn't an issue. Granted, there can be all kinds of stuff beyond just water in what comes out of various taps (what comes out of mine slowly stripped the clearcoat off my car's paint this past summer!) but it seems a long shot that your water supply would be unsafe to use on the steel in kanger aerotanks.
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