Kanger Air Flow Control 3.0 Problems

[molimelight]

I recently switched all of my Kanger Protank II's over to the Air Flow Control 3.0. Great modification, but I've had two of them quit working on me in the last two months. They just quit making connection to the battery (sigelei Z-Max V-5). I suspect the post is receding in the body of it and not making contact with the positive battery post on the sigelei. Anyone know if this is the case or a fix for it? I may just have to go to the Subtank if I can't find a fix and if I can determine that all of the Subtanks have the spring loaded contacts.

 

[DingerCPA]

Good Morning!

I use AFC3s on all my PT2s. I have wiggled the center pin down a couple of times, thinking the same thing. I've also found I don't get the PT2 head seated quite properly in the base.

Do you have another mod with which you can check the wonky AFCs? I can't remember if the ZMax has its own adjustable center pin. Something makes me think not.

 

[molimelight]

Good Morning!

I use AFC3s on all my PT2s. I have wiggled the center pin down a couple of times, thinking the same thing. I've also found I don't get the PT2 head seated quite properly in the base.

I'll try that. I tried it on the one that quit earlier and didn't seem to have any luck with it. I'll try it again on this one. I know the head is seated OK as it is working and then just stops and I've tried different heads with it.

Do you have another mod with which you can check the wonky AFCs? I can't remember if the ZMax has its own adjustable center pin. Something makes me think not.

The pin is not adjustable in the Zmax. I have some old E-Joys around I might charge up and check it with. Thanks for the input!

 

[Alter]

I found the V3 airflow adapter a big problem with loosing contact with the atty, just out of the blue it would just not work. It annoyed me so much that I just stopped using the V3 and back to the V1. The V1 adapter have their own problem of separating and falling apart thus loosing the springs. I did drill the V1 air holes out and with some J&B weld I did put them back together but to eventually separate again later on down the road.
The only thing different I did was that I bought some 3rd party protank orings that the bottom oring on the head, not the insulator was thinner than the stock oring and could have been a contributing factor to the V1 separating but having the thinner oring the V3 still lost connection. I could only take a few phone calls from my wife at work having me replace failed gear before I bought her a subtank mini, shelved the protanks and problem solved. After 2 years of using protanks I finally upgraded my wife's atty setup and haven't heard her since. I just love the subtank RBA, easy to build and it hasn't leaked yet.

 

[molimelight]

I found the same problem with the V1 separating & it looks like I'm not the only one with the pin problems in the V3. I agree about the RBA in the Subtank. I have the Subtank mini and it works great. I'm glad because I don't see myself rebuilding the dual coils in Subtanks. I may have to try the Nano (as long as it has the spring loaded pin and the RBA is as easy to rebuild as the Mini), as I like the tank to fit the profile of the Zmax. Thanks for the info.