kanger dripbox 160 reading ohms wrong
- Thread starter db132
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
?? You thought it would be precisely perfect?
Kanger coils are probably going to range from 0.19 to 0.24.
And the cheap chinese electronics are probably going to misread the resistance by a couple or a few points anyway. That's one one HUNDREDTH of an ohm off...you aren't going to get any closer - with ANY standard vaping gear...let alone Kanger stuff.
Kanger coils are probably going to range from 0.19 to 0.24.
And the cheap chinese electronics are probably going to misread the resistance by a couple or a few points anyway. That's one one HUNDREDTH of an ohm off...you aren't going to get any closer - with ANY standard vaping gear...let alone Kanger stuff.
.21 is a good close resistance.
Nothing to worry about there.
Also,a very big welcome to ECF!!!
whoa... don't use it at max
okay did you put the coil in and instantly go there? or did you prime (wet the wick by squeezing) and go up in temp by 10's or something?
okay did you put the coil in and instantly go there? or did you prime (wet the wick by squeezing) and go up in temp by 10's or something?
i did prime the coil but what do you mean go up in temps by 10?
with brand new coils you want to start at a low temp and take a few puffs, raise it by 5 to 10 watts, take a few puffs, raise it again... until you get it to a decent vape for flavour and clouds. some coils also have wattage limits usually printed on their sides. in your case you probably can't do that.. i'm tired and finally clued in it's a dripbox... lol. i'm pleading a long weekend here and lack of sleep sorry.
so you filled the squeeze bottle, pressed the button to vape and held it for a few seconds with no effect?
so you filled the squeeze bottle, pressed the button to vape and held it for a few seconds with no effect?
The RDA that comes with the DB 160 is a pretty poor effort from what I understand. You could try a Velocity V2 clone instead from FT as most come with a bottom feeding pin.
You have 160 watts to play with, but to chuck some mahoosive clouds you should only need about half that power. Big vapor production is more about the wicking and the airflow than it is about power.
Try some biggish dual coils say 26G 13 wraps at 2.5 mm, should come oout to about 0.8 ohms. Wick them nicely, not too tight not too loose, with the tails just touching the deck. Use plenty of aiflow that hits the coils directly and just underneath and apply about 50 watts of power to start, then increase slowly until you fog your room out.
You have 160 watts to play with, but to chuck some mahoosive clouds you should only need about half that power. Big vapor production is more about the wicking and the airflow than it is about power.
Try some biggish dual coils say 26G 13 wraps at 2.5 mm, should come oout to about 0.8 ohms. Wick them nicely, not too tight not too loose, with the tails just touching the deck. Use plenty of aiflow that hits the coils directly and just underneath and apply about 50 watts of power to start, then increase slowly until you fog your room out.
Last edited:
will try that in a day or two on mine.. mine is the older 60w version though
Yes. The screw bit on the bottom of the atomizer is a standard(ish) connector that that will connect with the vast majority of the vaping devices on the market. The RDA I listed below comes with a hollow 'squonking' pin that you can replace the existing screw in the middle of the 510 connector. This will convert it to bottom feeding. The Velocity is also an awesome RDA.
$10.53 Velocity V2 Styled RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
My Dripbox 60 will not read/fire my Velocity V2.
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
You may need to pry the centre-pin up on the dripbox.
Use a small screwdriver and slowly lift the centre pin slightly a little at a time.
Remove the batterys first though.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
