Kanger KBOX 40W Mod oh?
- Thread starter Zazoie
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Got mine on Monday. Neat little box. Really like the button.
Going to open it up this weekend, and see if there is room to install a
USB charge board. Given it's dimensions, it looks like you could install
an SX mini board into it as well .... hmmm
Going to open it up this weekend, and see if there is room to install a
USB charge board. Given it's dimensions, it looks like you could install
an SX mini board into it as well .... hmmm
I've had mine for a week...paid too much on an impulse buy at a mall kiosk, but I like supporting the local b&m stores, lol. Looks nice, feels solid, and I got it pretty much just for my ProTank-2. Really love it!
I have had mine for a couple of weeks now. It's overall pretty nice, it was the first mod that I've had that I had to buy batteries/charger for, and I always said I wasn't going to buy anything that had an external battery because charging and carrying extra batteries seemed like a pain, but it's actually much more convenient than I thought it would be…better than waiting on my mod to charge!
It's pretty solid, I don't care that it doesn't have a display. I've been running a subtank nano on it, the SMOK sub ohm tank, and two RBAs, a mutation x v2 and a mutilator.
Just a few things about it that I'm not crazy about; it's really light, for one thing, which seems like it is a good thing but with a big tank it makes it really top heavy. Three days after I got it, it did a header off my workbench and my SMOK sub ohm tank became toast. With an RBA it's not a problem and the subtank nano is light enough that it isn't a problem, but if you wanted to use a bigger/heavier tank it might be annoying. The battery door is really really really tight to screw in, and it seems like those aluminum threads are really easy to cross-thread. I've had a few near disasters, and I can't help but wonder if they would eventually wear down and make the battery door loose.
Also, it seems to be fine with a tank at .5, but in my experience does not fire down to .4 like it claims. It will not read either of my RBAs if they are built less than .6. Not a big deal in the sense that I'm not really interested in super sub ohm building…but a little annoying for someone new to building coils to have something finicky like that. And while it is regulated, I have noticed something odd about it that is probably me just being a newbie but is sort of bothersome. Say I have my RDA on with a .6 coil, and the battery is fully charged…then I can crank it up to 40 watts and vape. But as the battery drops, I have to manually drop the watts or it misfires. So, once we're at like five little battery lights lit, it needs me to drop the wattage to 35 or it just blinks when you hit the fire button. As the battery life drops, the wattage has to be adjusted down to accommodate what the battery is able to put out. If you want to vape consistently a .6 coil on 40w, you are looking at swapping out batteries once the battery life drops down to five lighted dots, in my experience. Which is a pain for out and about, unless you're carrying a bunch of backup batteries, which isn't always practical for me personally. However, if you are using a tank, it seems to be able to fire consistently until the battery is to the shut off point.
Again, this is probably me being a newbie and not understanding how things work. It might not be an issue to anyone, or it might not be news to anyone who has been vaping for any length of time. It might also be that I have a janky unit…or that my habitual dropping and banging of equipment is to blame. Just thought I'd put it out there.
Overall, it was cheap and it works. It and a subtank nano will be my go-to setup when I have to go out all day and do something physical where a more fragile mod or a more expensive one isn't practical, and dripping isn't possible.
It's pretty solid, I don't care that it doesn't have a display. I've been running a subtank nano on it, the SMOK sub ohm tank, and two RBAs, a mutation x v2 and a mutilator.
Just a few things about it that I'm not crazy about; it's really light, for one thing, which seems like it is a good thing but with a big tank it makes it really top heavy. Three days after I got it, it did a header off my workbench and my SMOK sub ohm tank became toast. With an RBA it's not a problem and the subtank nano is light enough that it isn't a problem, but if you wanted to use a bigger/heavier tank it might be annoying. The battery door is really really really tight to screw in, and it seems like those aluminum threads are really easy to cross-thread. I've had a few near disasters, and I can't help but wonder if they would eventually wear down and make the battery door loose.
Also, it seems to be fine with a tank at .5, but in my experience does not fire down to .4 like it claims. It will not read either of my RBAs if they are built less than .6. Not a big deal in the sense that I'm not really interested in super sub ohm building…but a little annoying for someone new to building coils to have something finicky like that. And while it is regulated, I have noticed something odd about it that is probably me just being a newbie but is sort of bothersome. Say I have my RDA on with a .6 coil, and the battery is fully charged…then I can crank it up to 40 watts and vape. But as the battery drops, I have to manually drop the watts or it misfires. So, once we're at like five little battery lights lit, it needs me to drop the wattage to 35 or it just blinks when you hit the fire button. As the battery life drops, the wattage has to be adjusted down to accommodate what the battery is able to put out. If you want to vape consistently a .6 coil on 40w, you are looking at swapping out batteries once the battery life drops down to five lighted dots, in my experience. Which is a pain for out and about, unless you're carrying a bunch of backup batteries, which isn't always practical for me personally. However, if you are using a tank, it seems to be able to fire consistently until the battery is to the shut off point.
Again, this is probably me being a newbie and not understanding how things work. It might not be an issue to anyone, or it might not be news to anyone who has been vaping for any length of time. It might also be that I have a janky unit…or that my habitual dropping and banging of equipment is to blame. Just thought I'd put it out there.
Overall, it was cheap and it works. It and a subtank nano will be my go-to setup when I have to go out all day and do something physical where a more fragile mod or a more expensive one isn't practical, and dripping isn't possible.
I wish the black one would show up.
I've been holding out because I expected Kanger to come out with a version 2 like they usually do.
Figures. This would be the only one they don't do that to.
I've been holding out because I expected Kanger to come out with a version 2 like they usually do.
Figures. This would be the only one they don't do that to.
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had my eye on this one also & been watching some reviews, just might pick one up strictly for dripping; for the price what the hey.
what batteries are you running? i`m no expert at sub ohming but you need to make sure the battery is a high drain battery. i`m using Efest 2500 mah rated for 35 amp draw. what are your batteries rated at?
that 2500mAh efest is really a 20 amp continuous.
the 2100mAh is a re-wrapped VTC4 which is 30 amp continuous.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected-icr.html
the 2100mAh is a re-wrapped VTC4 which is 30 amp continuous.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected-icr.html
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They're high drain, I've got a couple of Samsung 20A and another that claims to be 40A, don't remember the brand and I don't want to take it out to look. I ordered some purple Efest batteries that are 35A last week. Part of the reason that I resisted batteries for so long is because I'm sort of scared of them, so I tried to make sure I was getting the right ones for the device, for sure.
for subbing stick with sony VTC4'S which are 30 amp continuous, or Samsung 25r's which are 20 amp continuous. AW also has a new 20 amp continuous 2200mAh18650
efest does not make batteries, they buy batteries in bulk and re-wrap them..
efest does not make batteries, they buy batteries in bulk and re-wrap them..
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Batteries are confusing. I have currently two blue ones that say Samsung high drain 25A and a yellow one that says ACT continuous 30A high drain. If the purple Efest are re-wrapped, what kind of batteries actually are they? I bought them specifically because they were recommended in the specs of the IPV mini (It said use only Sony VTC4 or Purple Efest high drain batteries).
Should I order something different? I realize that a regulated mod isn't going to blow up in my face, but I don't want to be carrying 10 batteries around and switching them out every hour either.
good to know, thanks. so my purple efests @ 20 amp continuous should be safe for sub ohm vaping right?
I guess tastes are different for everybody.
I have been running mine for a month With the Subtank Mini using the .5ohm OCC coil and the RBA deck also at .5. I have tried all the different settings and found for myself I don't need to go over the 20w setting. At 30w-40w it was just way to much. Running the LG HE2 @ 20w I can go all day going through 2-3+ tanks of juice without having to change batteries.
I have been running mine for a month With the Subtank Mini using the .5ohm OCC coil and the RBA deck also at .5. I have tried all the different settings and found for myself I don't need to go over the 20w setting. At 30w-40w it was just way to much. Running the LG HE2 @ 20w I can go all day going through 2-3+ tanks of juice without having to change batteries.
yes in a regulated device or to a certain resistance level in a Mec...........but what E-Fest does is buy Batteries in bulk that did not make the cut from whatever Manufacturer, then they re-wrap them; so you really don't know what you've got unless you take the wrapper off.........would highly suggest to go here and read every-thing you can
Batteries and Chargers
and also Baditude's Blog's, this is top notch info
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...eeper-understanding-mod-batteries-part-i.html
also make sure you click the link to part #2
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Well, I'm happy to see that my blue Samsungs are on the list. Not too sure about the yellow battery, I need to do a little research about the brand, but I bought it from a reputable shop, so I'm hoping that it is OK too. The purple Efests that I bought are the ones that are on the list as being rebranded LG18650HE2 2500mAh 20 amp batteries…I'm guessing that they are OK to use since I don't plan on building below .4? I'm still figuring out the ohms law business, and math is not my strong suit, but from what I've read, if I build to a .4, it would not draw more than 10.2 amps from the battery…so a 20 amp battery should be safe? I really prefer somewhere in the .6 to .8 range.
Not sure where the power of the device fits into that equation, though, and I've searched but can't seem to find it broken down fer dummez. Kbox is a max 40w device. The IPV mini that I've bought is max 70w, but no way am I ever going to run it that high. 40/50w is the highest I would be comfortable with. Can you maybe direct me to something that breaks down how the wattage of the device relates to ohms law and battery draw, or if it matters?
ETA: I went back over Baditude's blogs, and it is looking like with a regulated mod I should be OK...
Not sure where the power of the device fits into that equation, though, and I've searched but can't seem to find it broken down fer dummez. Kbox is a max 40w device. The IPV mini that I've bought is max 70w, but no way am I ever going to run it that high. 40/50w is the highest I would be comfortable with. Can you maybe direct me to something that breaks down how the wattage of the device relates to ohms law and battery draw, or if it matters?
ETA: I went back over Baditude's blogs, and it is looking like with a regulated mod I should be OK...
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