Kanger Protank - Rebuidling - Silicone Cap

[otiose]

Hi All,

What is the purpose of the silicone cap ? (this is the item is inserted into the shaft air hole and sit above the wick).

- note: removing this does not cause any flooding so far for my kanger protank.

 

[Lessifer]

I think that's what seals the connection between the air tube and the head/base.

 

[otiose]

It would seem like it. But even if i took it out. It still work without flooding or leaking for me. hmmm

 

[Centurion]

Yeah, based on other people's advice on the similarly built T3's silicone cup, I cut it down a little bit so it's not touching the wicks and it hits better. I got one Protank head to wick/draw/hit fine without the silicone cup at all and the falvor I got was really great. But other heads I've tried have leaked.

I read recently that Kanger's switching up the heads and going with the Evod heads or something like that in future. Could be since some commented their Evod heads work better in their Protanks than their airy Protank heads. I haven't tried that yet though.

 

[vernhall]

Whatever Kanger does I hope they do it soon... And I wish you all the best of luck in rebuilding your T3s because I've had little to no luck so far in the ones I've tried... Doesn't matter what I do I get about 1 in 5 or 6 rebuilds to work right and even about half the brand-new-in-wrap ones I've cracked open to try to keep my T3s running are DOA... Have tried to modify my technique a dozen different times (diff ga wire, diff wick material, building coils on bolts, etc), but nothing seems to do the job... And, with the new ones, if they're not DOA out of the package they usually end up dying the normal T3 death of leaking like a sieve, flooding, or gurgling themselves to death in a day or so...

 

[ElectricalSocket]

It creates a liquid/air-tight seal in the air tube. The top of it presses against the air tube in the tank. When you're inhaling, you're also creating suction on the tank. You want that suction to suck juice into the coil area, not be leaking out anywhere else. It may work without it, but it does serve a purpose and should be there!

 

[genoxy]

Once removed it will probably leak out the mouthpiece if tipped over right?

 

[ElectricalSocket]

Once removed it will probably leak out the mouthpiece if tipped over right?

It's very possible. It depends on how tight it's able to screw on. The silicone is roughly .8mm thick. If Kanger took the cap thickness into consideration (and they probably did), there should be a gap 0.3-0.7mm when screwed together all the way without the silicone. They have to know the dimensions on every part, just look at how perfectly the cap sits on top of the flavor wicks.

I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't leak with a thicker liquid, but there should be a very small gap with the silicone off (a little thinner than the cap thickness). I'll do a ghetto experiment later to see if that's the case.

 

[otiose]

It creates a liquid/air-tight seal in the air tube. The top of it presses against the air tube in the tank. When you're inhaling, you're also creating suction on the tank. You want that suction to suck juice into the coil area, not be leaking out anywhere else. It may work without it, but it does serve a purpose and should be there!

Thanks for explanation on what it does.
note: I did remove the silicone cap and it doesn't leak even though I over turn the whole tank. But at low low liquid, then it gurgle and leaks. then again, this may be happening even with the cap. cheers !!