Kanger rebuild question

[kingja200]

hey guys i have posted here once or twice so i am still considered a newbie so please forgive me in advance for any mistakes

Anyway i have been rebuilding my kanger protank series heads and i do a microcoil setup like riptripper does but i was wondering if i do it like ruby roo does in the video posted below she has spaces when she wraps her coils and i wanted to know since she uses more wire by not wrapping them so tight yes the resistance will be slightly slightly higher because its just a little more wire but will you get more vapor technically speaking because there is more wire exposed (surface area)? I personally think it would and i think i might switch to this method. But then again wont you get hot spots if you dont pinch the coils cuz with rba's i know that not pinching the coils is a no no so why is it ok for her to do it

thanks guys

 

[TFL!]

I wrap my pro tank coils on a 2mm screw in the threads you get even spaces that way. It works for me. 32 gage 8/7 tension wraps = 2.5ohm for me.

 

[Susan~S]

But then again wont you get hot spots if you dont pinch the coils cuz with rba's i know that not pinching the coils is a no no so why is it ok for her to do it

There are two ways to prevent hot spots: pinched coils or evenly spaced coils. Both coil type will work on an atomizer, including RBA's/RTA's

 

[HughDaHand]

What I used to do when I was making spaced coils was wrap them up and then compress them on the screwdriver I wrapped them on. They would always seem to spring back out into a nicely spaced coil no matter how bad they looked after wrapping them. When I was building coils in protank heads I almost never made microcoils, spaced coils just seemed to work better in them for some reason. I can't really say why and it may all be in my head. I say give it a shot, worst case you don't like it and have to build it again.

 

[crg31953]

I have used both methods.

I have found that building a micro coil is best and the pinching you refer to is a means of eliminating hot spots in your coil.

Ruby Roo's method is pretty much a standard Kanger (spaced) wrap and depending on what you want, it will work fine. As I said I have tried them both.

Rip Tripper, if we are talking about the same video is a micro coil and it needs to be compressed or you lose efficiency.

My current Kanger builds are this - I use 30 gauge Kanthal and wrap it around a 1/16 drill bit, 9 tight wraps will put me at 1.8 ohms and 10 wraps will put me at 2.0 ohms. I build micro coils so you need to keep your wraps tight to each other.
Once the coil is wrapped on the drill bit I slide it off and take a tweezers and gently compress the coil to eliminate any gaps and anneal it with a small butane torch. This will help it to hold it's shape, you may have to do this more than once to close gaps from both sides. A micro coil needs to be tight.
I will then put the coil back on the drill bit and assemble the atty. I only use the drill bit to locate height of the coil and you know the rest.

There are a lot of great threads on this sight that will help you with all of your questions, I have learned a lot since I've been here! Every time I think I know everything, I learn more!

I wish you Luck and read on my friend! You can always shoot me a PM if you have questions! Always willing to help!

 

[TFL!]

There is thread on pro tank coils here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html lot of reading but good

 

[kingja200]

I get very little vapor using the microcoil method and flavor is just ok but I think it will be better vapor and flavor if i dont wrap them basically touching eachother so i will be trying to evenly spaced method and see how it works because i never tried it

so now from hearing from you guys it is possible to have the evenly spaced coil in an rba but its just more practical to use a microcoil if we are talking bout ctton build not silica...?

 

[Goldleadr95]

My 2 cents are to use 30 gauge kanthal and make a fat or oval shaped coil or use 36 and make dual micro

 

[kingja200]

yeah i usually do 28g kanthal and around 1.7 ohms with microcoil setup so i will try 30g kanthal and the spacing method

 

[kingja200]

y do some ppl here like such high ohms like 2.2 ohms or whatever is you put it in the ohms calculator for example an mvp 2 which puts out 5a and i maxed the voltage out the lowest ohms u can go for that to work is like 1.6 ohms so why do ppl like going as high as to like 2.5 ohms cuz u will still get the same amount of volts but ur current will drop...? so whats the point

 

[joesquid]

Personally, I don't notice much difference between a stock 1.8 and a 2.2 in a Kanger. I do notice a difference between the stock Kanger and a nice micro coil wicked with cotton.

 

[Alter]

What I used to do when I was making spaced coils was wrap them up and then compress them on the screwdriver I wrapped them on. They would always seem to spring back out into a nicely spaced coil no matter how bad they looked after wrapping them. When I was building coils in protank heads I almost never made microcoils, spaced coils just seemed to work better in them for some reason. I can't really say why and it may all be in my head. I say give it a shot, worst case you don't like it and have to build it again.

I agree. I was making microcoils for my protanks but I did also find in the long run they don't perform as well as spaced coils. I also find the resistance in the PT microcoils would bounce around so IMO they would poop out faster. I started my rebuilding vape journey with 32 gauge kanthal as my wire of choice but after having to rebuild cause of the 32 distorting, bending and just being ornery when it was wick changing time. I switched to 30 gauge, since its a bit thicker it lasts longer along with now building lower ohm coils (1.2-1.4) that are difficult to achieve with 32 gauge wire in a protank build. Vaping 1.4 ohm coils with hemp fiber wick in a protank is IMO the sweetspot with my provari and it produces a grand vape. I drilled out my kanger airflow adapter so I now can vape .6 in my protank without a burnt lack of airflow taste.
Most VV devices have a cutoff @ 1.2 ohms so lower ohm builds at a slightly higher voltage/wattage setting produces a faster hotter coil that does produce a good vape once you've learned the technique of how to vape those kind of low ohm builds.
I have tried the cellucotton from Sallys, got a 500' box and not happy at all with its performance at all compared to the hemp fiber, but thats another thread another day.

 

[Jaffo]

I agree with joesquid. Since switching wicks to cotton, I actually pull the silica out of stock coils and don't even bother with it. And I don't notice a difference between 1.8 and 2.2 with the stock coil. Which is a good thing. Built a 1.2 coil today on a drill bit that is a big bigger than 16mm. 4 wraps, I think. It's a semi-micro coil. I wrap, then I torch and pinch, but find no reason to compress till everything is touching if I'm using so few wraps. The idea is having more coil heat touching as much juice/wicking material as possible to get the most consistent vapor production, be it flavor or volume, or both. I would suggest leaving a tad more space between the coils if you have fewer wraps, and less space between the coils if you are working with smaller diameters and more wraps. The exact resistance isn't going to matter much, I don't think, and neither will exact coil form or spacing. It's just such a small chamber for juice to cook in. You have to find the right balance of wicking, flavor wick, coil, and the combo of all of that according to the juice you're using. It will vary.

Also, regardless of your coil form and function, how often you change out the cotton and clean out any residue on your coil or in that chamber will effect the flavor and general vaping experience in these little coil heads.

It's all the wife and I have been working with for a few weeks, and we've gotten pretty good at getting great vapor through our cheap little devices. Even quit smoking ciggies for real 7 days ago as of today because of it. Trust me and the others here - the difference between Ruby Roo's coil and Rip's macro coil are minimal. They both have different styles, and they are both fine. Kanger leaves spacing between the stock wraps, but they also use silica in their stock coils for longevity, not flavor or vapor production. Micro coils on silica would create nasty hot spots and build up burnt juice residue in one spot as opposed to spreading it evenly across the wick.

When you switch to cotton, as we should, it also gives you more options for your coil form.

 

[kingja200]

i still have some questions unanswered ..

 

[HughDaHand]

y do some ppl here like such high ohms like 2.2 ohms or whatever is you put it in the ohms calculator for example an mvp 2 which puts out 5a and i maxed the voltage out the lowest ohms u can go for that to work is like 1.6 ohms so why do ppl like going as high as to like 2.5 ohms cuz u will still get the same amount of volts but ur current will drop...? so whats the point

It really depends on the wire you are using. With 32 or 30ga wire those extra wraps to get a higher ohm coils means more surface area to vaporize juice. With 28+ga you kind of need lower ohms or there is so much wire that it just takes forever to heat up once you start getting over 1.5ohms or so. It is also not about the amps that you push through the coil, it is more about getting that coil to the right temperature. If you can get a better temp with a lower draw on your battery then I call that a win. Ohms are much less important in a protank coil when using a VV device as they are not made for high power vaping like a rda. I can't really say much on your silica question as once I tried cotton I never looked back.

 

[Marc411]

i still have some questions unanswered ..

As someone posted earlier this thread can answer every question you have about rebuilding. Take the time to read through it over a couple days but the first 10 pages will put you on a real good path.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html

And I use 28 ga wrapped around a 5/64 bit compressed for 1.6 ohms. The 28 ga let's me use a coil for almost a month (giving it a quick rinse and dry burn) and holds up to the re-wicking.

 

[kingja200]

Thanks for all the answers guys!!!

I have done more than 30 rebuilds with the heads just playing around and the vapor productions sucks!!!!!! I tried both the compression method and the little spacing between them but no joke i get much more vapor production on the stock untouched head!! It really bothers me!! I tried 32 and 30g kanthal and i tried ohms as low as 1.5 and even as high as 2.7 but nothing the vapor production sucks. It is kind of ok when i use it with my mvp 2 cranked all the way up to 11w but i like to use my kanger minis with my ego twist...


Any suggestions cuz i really dont like walking around with my rda and a bottle of ejuice all the time

 

[Sthur]

There is a 100+ or more ways to rebuild a pt coil! you need to watch a few vid and find your target resistance and trial and error will find what works for you.

I prefer 30 guage at 8 wraps and 1.8 ohms. Everyone is different and more then one way to build coil.

Hope you find what works.

 

[forks]

very informative, anyone have any tips for a mini protank ii? or should i just build it like it's not a mini?

 

[BillyHill]

Check out these 2 videos. May interest you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIoH-mOXKsc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcKwOQzGLEU