So i purchased a Subtank a few weeks back and it was great at first, but recently i noticed that the resistance would jump on my ipv3. it's now doing this in OCC mode and rba mode. It will jump from .6 to 3 ohms and everywhere in between! I thought it was a problem with my IPV3 but i put it on my Sig 100+ and it still did it. I put other attys on both mods and the resistance stays put. I purchased the subtank mini today and have had ZERO problems. So i can only attribute this to that stupid spring loaded 510 pin on the 25mm Subtank. I tried taking it out and sanding both ends on the pin with fine sandpaper. I tried putting the pin in backwards. I tried using the beauty ring, still jumps. Hell, I even took the 510 pin out of the beauty ring and put it in the subtank base, but unfortunately it's not long enough to make a connection. Anybody got any ideas?
Kanger Subtank 510 Pin Problem
- Thread starter Jothaniccus
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Probably return it is your best bet. Sounds like you did as much as you can troubleshooting it...
and... Welcome to the forum!
This may be a dumb question but... you tried it with a different coil, right? The only other thing would be to try just barely tightening it the tank on, even less than finger-tight and see if that changes anything. Also, did your Sigelei come with a reducer?
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I tried 4 different occ coils and 5 different rta builds. It still jumps. The store i purchased from won't return it but they fiddled with it for 2 hours and couldn't fix it. They blamed it on the pin as well. I tried tightening the occ coil super tight and barely tight at all. No difference. My Subtank mini is great. No BS floating pin and better airflow but i still paid nearly $50 for my first Subtank and this is ridiculous.
I'd be insisting they do. It's faulty.
I was wondering if that pin was going to screw up when mated with the spring pins on my mods...ipv mini and k-simar 20. Both work fine, no issues with pins. The store has to take it back.
Where I live.... it's 30 days.
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Quick note: I didn't mean the coil itself, I meant the tank onto the mod. Like... barely on and not even finger tight.
Asking if barely screwing it in was wondering if the connection wasn't messing/pushing up into the coil insulator somehow. I was half-working under the hypothesis that the weight of the subtank might be exacerbating the IPV3 issues that keep cropping up with it's 510 connection, along with it not working on the Sigelei being a red herring. I got nothing mate, sorry for it that blows. :/ Especially about the store -- if you used a credit card they may be of help too, and you should contact Kanger (service at kangertechus . com).
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I got this same problem with 25mm model in RTA mode.
In my case, the problem was caused by improper contact of the RTA section to the 510 connection at the base section.
Solved with a diy ring, put at the RTA section to secure the connection.
In my case, the problem was caused by improper contact of the RTA section to the 510 connection at the base section.
Solved with a diy ring, put at the RTA section to secure the connection.
That is coming up as a known issue. There's a Facebook group vaporshark dna40 where someone posted about that same issue. He did do something that seemed to fix it. He took the 510 apart and there's an insulator in there that he filed down about 1mm witch I think exposed some metal that was able to make a connection and fix it. Hope that helps
I'm not sure what you mean by a diy ring. I assume this is something you made. Would you be so kind as to provide more details?
It was made with 24 AWG kanthal. Single wrap on the center connection. Cut nicely to create almost a whole single wrap.
This o ring extents the center connection pin of the RTA section, so it connects properly to the base section.
Double check to ensure that none connects that center pin (positive pole) to the body (negative pole)
This o ring extents the center connection pin of the RTA section, so it connects properly to the base section.
Double check to ensure that none connects that center pin (positive pole) to the body (negative pole)
I have a kanger coming in the mail great job shimming yours I have read about red orings on latest release the orings were they red on yours thanks there above the larger wight one I think it takes one top and one on the bottom also works as a insulator
Had this very same issue right from the start of installing my rebuild deck. Attempted the kanthal washer fix, this was not the problem. I was also using a Sigelei 100w. It seems for some reason the OCC heads are just a smidgen longer at the connection than the rebuild deck. However adjusting the reversed thread center pin on the Sigelei to a height stopping the subtank base just shy of contacting the deck of the Sigelei has cured this problem. The subtank base now sits less than a paper width from Sigelei deck. Ohm reading is dead on every time now. The center pin on the Sigelei turns very easy so some times when screwing on the tank it will also screw the pin in and not retain the proper height Hope this helps some of you.
I will try to find time to take HD pic's showing each step for others needing help.
I will try to find time to take HD pic's showing each step for others needing help.
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I got this thread mixed up with a similar issue on the Mini. You might want to swap the 510 pins between your full size Subtank and your Mini, they're the same size.
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Well, I'd issue with subtank mini RTA which was not firing after I used OCC for the first time in my mini. It was clear to me that there will be a gape between the RTA and center pin. So, I discussing with few fellows, and came with a decision to melt down soldering wire on bottom of RTA base which worked well..
Here are some photos attached after soldering:
Here are some photos attached after soldering:
I may be having this same issue. Put a new .5 coil in the mini tonight and it's reading .7 to .6. on both of my mods.
Are you sure it's the center pin? I'm having the same problem with my nano and it appears to be due to a varying resistance of the body of the airflow controller. Depending on where the airflow is set, I can get a resistance any where from 0.5 ohm to 40k ohm...
I just got my nano last week and for the first day it was good, then the resistance readings started varying a bit, then more, now I can hardly get it to fire at all because the changes are so dramatic. At first I thought the mod was just wonky but I verified the problem today with a multimeter. Overall resistance reading with a coil screwed in is in the kilo-ohms , resistance of the center pin is around 0.3 ohm, resistance of body is kilo-ohms. I'm hoping maybe some leaked liquid turned gunk is what's responsible so I'm going to soak it overnight and see if anything changes.
I just got my nano last week and for the first day it was good, then the resistance readings started varying a bit, then more, now I can hardly get it to fire at all because the changes are so dramatic. At first I thought the mod was just wonky but I verified the problem today with a multimeter. Overall resistance reading with a coil screwed in is in the kilo-ohms , resistance of the center pin is around 0.3 ohm, resistance of body is kilo-ohms. I'm hoping maybe some leaked liquid turned gunk is what's responsible so I'm going to soak it overnight and see if anything changes.
After some closer inspection I saw the problem was that the airflow control valve had become slightly loose. Just enough that it could shift up and down by maybe half a mm. I grabbed some vice grips and channel locks and started twisting, hoping something would tighten. Turns out the base (side with 510) screws into the piece that screws into the tank. There isn't much of a lip to grab onto on the top half so be careful if you attempt the same fix; I got a little overzealous and ended up slipping the channel locks onto the threaded section....Now I'll be needing those channel locks every time I take the tank off/on lol
Anyway, this seems to have fixed the problem. Resistance of a coil I just made is reading at a steady 0.7
Anyway, this seems to have fixed the problem. Resistance of a coil I just made is reading at a steady 0.7
This same thing is happening to me now. I have tried everything. The OCC heads are supposed to be 1.1 and they read all the way up to 1.8. If i move the tank or screw it into the mod more or less it jumps all over the place. It has to be the bottom pin of the atty i just dont know how to fix it.
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