Has anyone tried the temperature sensing coils for the subtank from Kangertech. I see they are starting to be available in UK and I wondered if they are worth trying!
Kanger subtank TSCs
- Thread starter TheotherSteveS
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I just got some in last night, so far I really like them. I'm using one in my Subtank mini on my dna 40 box and its working well, 25w at 420F and not hitting TP with the airflow open.
I have heard they should only be used with the subtank mini, or nano.
So I reveiv my VS rdna 40 along with some TC coils. I have mine set pretty much the same as Thunderdan. But I'm getting Temp Protected message all the time. What should I do different? I don't have AF all the way open. Close to all the way tho.
I have noticed I have had to vary the temp between 450 and 480 to keep from hitting temp control at 22-25W
Been running TSC's in a nano with air flow setting just below wide open....420 to 430F @17 watts and seldom see temp protect....
I'll try that tonight. Last night was my first time to use it with Kanger Sub and the Ni200 coils. I also read here that air flow important so I'll open it up more also.
I would also make the board recognize it as "new coil" again. Refinement can jank things up sometimes.
Airflow is key too.
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I went through a five pack of the coils on a subtank mini. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Once they work, sometimes they continue to work and sometimes they fail. I don't think the connections are solid enough for TP. Anyway, I found the coils to be unreliable. Resistance would usually drift up over a couple days. I've been using the RBA section with nickel for about a week now with no issues, so I think the problem lies with the pre-built coils, not the dna40 chip or 510 connection.
My experience has been just the opposite.... been thru 3-5 packs and all have been stable...refinement consistently .01 to .02.....You are using the mini and me the nano...could there be a difference their??? Have seen no "drift up" on any I've used except when I have dirty 510 center pin contacts...clean them and things are back to normal...
Have had good success with these heads. Like all Kanger heads, and really all prebuilt heads, there is some range in resistance and wicking of the specific build, so you may have to run different units at different temperatures.
If you feel like you want more feed, you can stick a needle or probe into the feed holes to move some of the wicking out of the way and let more juice in. Just be careful not to damage the coil when you do that.
One thing I did notice though is that since they start at 0.15 ohms, they are not the best option for the DNA25.
If you feel like you want more feed, you can stick a needle or probe into the feed holes to move some of the wicking out of the way and let more juice in. Just be careful not to damage the coil when you do that.
One thing I did notice though is that since they start at 0.15 ohms, they are not the best option for the DNA25.
So thanks to Y'all's advice, I've cranked up temp from 400 to 440; opened up the airflow more... And so far so good. A couple time TP msg came on, but it didn't last long. Since then no msg of TP in the last couple hours.
Refinement definitely messes with my STmini and these coils.
Really wish I could just turn that off.
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Really wish I could just turn that off.
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I have all 3 versions of the Kangertech Subtank, the mini works OK with the RBA section built with nickel wire, but the refinement kills it. The Nano works the best with the nickel OCC coils for me. It does occaisionally get nixed by the "refinement". I have found that it just takes a little tinkering...
I leave mine set at 400 degrees and the refinement thing only occurs if I set it down for a long period of time. So if I do that I just remove and re-install the tank and select new coil... It just works for me...
I leave mine set at 400 degrees and the refinement thing only occurs if I set it down for a long period of time. So if I do that I just remove and re-install the tank and select new coil... It just works for me...
adjust the temperature.
refinement changes the calibration of the mod to be more accurate.
you have to adjust your setting when that happens.
right now you are vaping at an inaccurate setting and when it calibrates itself, you erase the calibration.
I disagree, if the mod and tank are together for what is probably 45 minutes to an hour, they are as close as they are going to get to being the same temp. By removing and re-installing the tank, and selecting a new coil, it re-sets the baseline temp and is more accurate in my experience... It works for me, anyway...
working means staying at the setting
if you keep pulling it to reset the setting, that's not proper operation and technically incorrect function. but user error sourced.
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I have seen numerous posts where you are correcting people, quite rudely some times. What makes you the resident expert on these things? I mean if you are going to claim to be in the know on these, you should at least let us know your credentials to make such claims.
I don't think the DNA 40 works properly with all devices, especially the pre made Kangertech coils. I believe the temp changes as they cool down after using them. The wire is not tightened into a fitting of any kind, it is pressed together and uses friction to make connections. These connections seem to cool and cause slight changes in the resistance, and thus inaccurate readings and temps.
I say this because the refinement thing does not occur when using my Veritas RDA's. It only happens on the Kangertech Nickel OCC coils.
So I will continue to do it my way, and I am not concerned if it meets your standards of operation...
The problem with this statement, I wasn't asking how to operate it. I was simply sharing my experience with the device.
Any chance English is your second language?
I ask cause that would explain what appears to be very rude replies to people...
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