Kanger T3, EVOD, and clearo heads in general: low Ohm=short lifespan?

[zipflint]

This has probably been addressed in a lot of separate threads and posts but I wanted to get a consensus out of everyone, since so many of you folks have FAR more experience than I do.

I've found that when I use low Ohm heads (say....1.8Ohm and lower) in any of my clearos (T3, Evod, VapeOnly Mega) that I quickly burn the coil. I *might* get through a whole tank but even that is rare. I'm always using some kind of variable voltage device, and I always start at around 3.5V. Even at that setting, and after letting it soak for about 10 minutes, I quickly run into burned juice. I've used replacement heads from several different vendors so I'm not trying to lay any blame on them. I just wonder if there is something inherent in a low resistance coil that makes it short-lived?

When I was still using stick-style batteries I found out really quickly that I NEEDED low-Ohm cartomizers to get any flavor and vapor out of my juices. I guess this just isn't the case with clearos and variable voltage devices. Or maybe it's just BOTTOM COIL clearos? The only top coil I've tried is the Vivi Nova and it was like puffing on a high resistance carto. Frustrating. VERY little flavor and very little vapor. Even when I cranked the voltage up, except then I got burnt juice and no vapor.

Perhaps this is all an example of operator error?

 

[Susaz]

What about your battery? Are you using a twist or some other kind with a not very wide pulse width modulation? PWM does pop low resistance coils!

My T3 heads have lasted me full 50 days without glitches. Also you might be having contact problems, are you sure they're blown? Have you tried wiggling the post ever so slightly or lifting the battery plate a notch? That's another thing that might be causing the poor vapor, poor contact.

Also, clean your batteries regularly with a little alcohol

 

[Uncle Sam]

Pulse width Modulation?

I though these things were straight DC. Gotta get with the time, I guess!

Anyway, to get really electrical, divide the volt by the ohms : eg. 3.7/1.8 = 2.1 Amps then Amps times Volts, 2.1 times 3.7, to equal around seven watts. The wattage capability of any conductor is directly related to its gauge (thickness)

Works just like a lightbulb. (100W is a 100 ohm filament at house voltage of 110VAC)

Basically, you are running to much wattage for the conductor gauge of the atomizer.

Turn down the heat, but VAPE ON!!!

 

[Susaz]

Pulse width Modulation?

I though these things were straight DC. Gotta get with the time, I guess!

Anyway, to get really electrical, divide the volt by the ohms : eg. 3.7/1.8 = 2.1 Amps then Amps times Volts, 2.1 times 3.7, to equal around seven watts. The wattage capability of any conductor is directly related to its gauge (thickness)

Works just like a lightbulb. (100W is a 100 ohm filament at house voltage of 110VAC)

Basically, you are running to much wattage for the conductor gauge of the atomizer.

Turn down the heat, but VAPE ON!!!

I'm vaping 1.8 ohm heads, 3.7 to 4.2 on eGo twists with no problems. In certain devices the pulse can go as far as 5.5v, and THAT pops coils.

 

[zipflint]

Yeah I'm using an eGo Twist and a Vision Spinner. Both exhibit the same issues with the same low-ohm heads. The PWM thing though, I guess I was dimly aware of it but never gave it much thought. You could be on to something! Or just ON something, heh. I certainly am. Although, not NEARLY enough of....something.

What about your battery? Are you using a twist or some other kind with a not very wide pulse width modulation? PWM does pop low resistance coils!

Also, clean your batteries regularly with a little alcohol

Yep, my batteries get a quick wipe with a isopropyl alcohol and water mixture that I use to clean electronics. My posts are clean!