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Kangertech subtank mini probs

Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by Kylee, Sep 11, 2015.

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  1. Kylee

    Kylee Full Member

    Sep 2, 2015
    Alright guys so I finally bought a sub tank. Its the kangertech mini and I got it for $30 at one of my vape shops and I verified it was an actual kange . The coil that was already in the tank was the pre built .5ohm which I primed and started vaping and it just really isn't producing a lot of vapor and it spits so badly every time I take a hit I eat some juice. So then I wanted to try the 1.2ohm coil, primed it then put it in my tank and it flooded like crazy, I lost a whole tank of juice because it leaked out of the air flow rapidly. Haven't messed with it since. Then I tried my luck at building an rba. It already came with a pretty wrapped coil on the base so I just had to add the cotton which I thought I did correctly according to videos I watched and it looks normal. Primed it, put it in the tank and set it at the recommended 30w and it felt like it wasn't able to pull properly. So very minimal vapor but luckily no leakage.

    I know this was really long but any advice or opinions would be highly appreciated!
     
  2. mkdive2015

    mkdive2015 Full Member Verified Member

    Sep 5, 2015
    SoCal
    What mod are you using? Settings? Air flow setting you have set on the tank (small hole, med wide open)?
     
  3. realsis

    realsis Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 8, 2014
    California
    was the premade coil seated correctly? did you check your O rings.could to ensure proper placement. on the RBA is your cotton wick BLOCKING or ON TOO of the air flow hole? give that a check and make sure the air flow area on the deck itself has no obstruction. with RBAS it sometimes is easy accidentally obstruct the air flow.
     
  4. RandyF

    RandyF Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 1, 2013
    Arizona
    Losing the liquid with the 1.2Ω coil sounds like it was a seal issue, something wasn't seated properly.

    As for the vapor production. Did you test the coils evenness before you wicked it? Sometimes the coil needs to "even out" before it works at peek performance. Most do this prior to wicking by pulsing the coil dry, and once it fires evenly you wick it. If you didn't then it should even out on its own eventually.
     
  5. Kylee

    Kylee Full Member

    Sep 2, 2015
    I use an eleaf istick 50w
    The .5ohm I run at 12-15w its really picky
    Couldn't even try the 1.2
    And the rba 15-30w with very minimal vapor production
    With both I run the airflow wide open

    Seated correctly I'm assuming mean its in the base correctly? As far as I can tell yes.
    I checked the seal on the 1.2 and compared it to the .5 and it looked fine
    All my o-rings are fine and have a good seal.

    I'm starting to get more vapor from the .5 I just have to play with the watts but it spits so bad that every time it never fails I end up getting juice in my mouth its upsetting because it makes for bad vapes
     
  6. Gahh

    Gahh Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    May 24, 2013
    Bay Shore LI NY

    If its a horizontal coil, I found these stock coils to be crap. Way to much cotton and way to big of a coil (diameter).
    What you can try with the stock .5 ohm coil is:
    With a pin, gently push it through the center of the cotton, flaring the cotton to the juice port sides.
    Hold it up/side down ( facing up ) and with a napkin wrapped around the air intakes. Blow through it, hard.
    This should stop the spitting, stop the flooding and allow for sufficient juice to flow thru the coil.
     
  7. Gahh

    Gahh Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    May 24, 2013
    Bay Shore LI NY
    IMO,,,,,Of all the sub-tanks, Kangertech holds a good place at the top of the list for quality vaping satisfaction.
    The stock coils are easy to rebuild, and vape better than the stock coils when rebuilt using 4 wraps of 24ga. kanthal, (3mm rod for the coil), and organic cotton (Ball type from CVS).
    As for there new Vertical coils, 3 stars. Once again...IMO
     
    • Like Like x 1
  8. Gahh

    Gahh Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    May 24, 2013
    Bay Shore LI NY
    Once you learn the tricks for the Kt.... You should be impressed and satisfied.
    I had to configure the coils so I could run high VG juice without dry hits. ( Love the max VG, sweet bakery flavored juices )
     
  9. Kylee

    Kylee Full Member

    Sep 2, 2015
    I tried poking at the cotton through the side holes and then blowing through the air intake and I'm still eating juice -.-
     
  10. Kylee

    Kylee Full Member

    Sep 2, 2015
    I hate to sound so negative but I've bought a couple different e cigs now which have all .... out in one way or another. I made the big boy decision to get a box mod hoping it would work without flaw which the box itself has. I purchased it with a basic tank which I guess the coil burned out on so I finally got this kanger sub which I did a lot of reading and watching of reviews and problems and thought I made an awesome decision and got a decent price for it. I figured it would work fantastic out of the box but that proves to be wrong. I'm disappointed and getting discouraged. To me its just easier to buy a pack of ciggs a week.
     
  11. Canadian_Vaper

    Canadian_Vaper Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    Jul 30, 2015
    ON. Canada
    Sounds like you have the V1 Tank, Are your air holes open all the way? I can never get decent vapor unless its open all all the way.

    I'd say about 1 out of 8 of the OCC coils I have bought don't seat properly and leak like crazy, I usually just toss them if thats the case, its the machining above the threads that leave a gap.

    What wattage are you firing the .5 at? 22 watts should give you decent vapor production, another thing is what mix is your juice? high pg juices really really kill vapor production on the mini, much more than other tanks I've had.

    Sounds like a really bad start to a good tank :X
     
  12. jpabs720

    jpabs720 Full Member

    Sep 10, 2015
    Chicago
    The 0.5 coil actual shows a watt range on the occ coil you should be firing in that range I believe it is 15-30 maybe more with the newer verticals. If you fire lower it's not going to really vaporize the juice. I doubt that's causing your leak though. Seals would be my start look at every connection and verify there's no Knicks or tears and everything appears to be sealed. I found that I wasn't screwing the coil heads on tight enough when I first got my subtank. Hope you find an easy solution to ur problem because the Kanter subtank is a pretty awesome everyday tank.
     
  13. Papi Tortuga

    Papi Tortuga Full Member

    Sep 13, 2015
  14. tedigram

    tedigram Super Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 14, 2015
    Brooklyn
    For leaking issues, I think there are three big rules of thumb for the subtank mini: the coil wants to be tightened very firmly, the tank itself should be only lightly tightened onto the airflow base, and the whole assembly should only be tightened as much as it needs to make contact with the mod's pin, and no further.

    The o-ring on the bottom of the coil is rounder and will for sure leak a bit if it's not tightened enough, but everything else reacts very poorly to being overtightened.
     
  15. David Wolf

    David Wolf Moved On ECF Veteran

    Dec 11, 2014
    Charlotte, NC
    So why only lightly tighten the base? I've read other threads saying that they had to tighten the base when they had leakage at that bottom soft flat seal. I myself like others have had juice leak out the airflow holes with a stock coil on the Subtank mini, after vaping for two days with no issues. I did some tests and the leak came not from any seals but my vertical 1.2 ohm coil cotton wick was saturated and in warmer weather the air in the tank expands and my juice trickled down to the air holes. I vape thinner 70pg/30vg juice. My nautilus mini has never done that.
     
  16. jdy

    jdy Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    I also use a Kanger subtank mini and have found if the tank has any reside between the glass and the O-rings it's going to leak. At least once a week I have to clean it to keep the o-ring seals from leaking. Then the force of the draw on the hit makes a difference of not getting liquid in the intake of a hit.
     
  17. tedigram

    tedigram Super Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 14, 2015
    Brooklyn
    My understanding is that the o-ring that seals the bottom of the glass tube to the air base can leak when it's overtightened, since the rubber itself squishes and gets deformed. But I'm like you, the only minor leaking issue I had with the tank was initially, and it was coming from the coil itself, in that case the 1.2, and that was solved by tightening the coil more firmly. Everything I've read elsewhere says all the o-rings on the actual tank don't want to be squished, so tighten as lightly as you can. I've followed that motto so far, and had zero leaking from the actual tank.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. jdy

    jdy Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Do you ever get the liquid on intake that would be coming from the coil up the mouth piece?
     
  19. tedigram

    tedigram Super Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 14, 2015
    Brooklyn
    Nope I've never had that. When my coil was leaking from being under-tightened it was just slowly building up some juice in the airflow base that eventually started to squeeze out the gaps between the three adjustable rings and air hole. I would guess that actual juice making its way up to your mouth would be a sign of flooding wouldn't it? Maybe too thin juice, or pulling too hard or something? Not sure.
     
  20. J*Vapes

    J*Vapes Full Member

    Sep 13, 2015
    With mine, if I do not use enough cotton it will spit and if the coil isn't tightened just right it will leak at the bottom. Good luck
     
    • Like Like x 1
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