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ThunderDan

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That seemed like a logical place to look but this is what I got, lol.
_______
I wrote:

Hello, I am looking to purchase the two piece tan insulators for the Kanger Subtank Mini rba heads. I tried searching your website for them but I could only find the non-mini version. Thank you for your time.
_______
Received From Kangertechus - Sales (sales@kangertechus.com)

Please visit KangerTech US Electronic Cigarettes - Kanger Official Website for parts.
_______

So, I simply got redirected to a site I had already visited and even mentioned in my message that the item I was looking for wasn't listed, lol

Can you tell me how you went about getting yours ThunderDan?

Oh, sorry I missed this. I got mine on that site. I had to order from a PC I couldn't get the site to load on my phone.

I'll update this with a direct link from my PC.
 

Rixsta

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just received my 3rd subtank mini today, and this one has dual air flow channels . When did they upgrade that?
I have two minis that have the upgraded dual airflow and I had to sell my original mini after using these, such a better design, If anyone is interested I'll post some pics... Cools the vape down more, produces more vapour, just nicer to lung hit..
 
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stvn77

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I have two minis that have the upgraded dual airflow and I had to sell my original mini after using these, such a better design, If anyone is interested I'll post some pics... Cools the vape down more, produces more vapour, just nicer to lung hit..

please post some pics
the upgrade is just the AFC???
i know RBA was upgraded too. the liquid channel are bigger... well different
 

Rixsta

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Hello again fellow vapers, I bought my Dual airflow minis from uk ecig store (I live in the UK, so have no idea about where to find them in the US sorry), probably not the cheapest but they do stock the new ones. As promised, here are some pictures of the mini and also a few of the RBA deck.. These tanks are on a Istick 30w, this is not the subtank plus ! You can clearly see the tank flush with the Istick, 22mm - mini.
LEFT AIRFLOW
m7rym9.jpg


RIGHT AIRFLOW
5xmhg.jpg


DUAL :)
2643l39.jpg


You can clearly see the coil here inside and straight through the other side, this gives great airflow and tons of vaper
2b44r9.jpg


2cyjrz4.jpg


28v62kn.jpg


The two upgraded mini's and a Nano, which now feels like a tight draw and is collecting dust

s145km.jpg
 
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Taylor7617

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I would love to get my hands on the new STM version - is there a site that is advertising this (meaning they've actually checked) as such? Or ........is it simply luck of the draw when they grab a box out of supply bin?


Also......... can someone help me on best way to rebuild OCC to avoid hot spots/legs? I've gone through my stash of OCC coils and want to rebuild them. Right now experimenting on getting the right amount of cotton for the RBA. Don't want to waste the OCC coils, so rebuilding seemed like the thing to do. I'm just afraid of that I'll burn the insulator/grommet if I pulse or test the coil. So many videos just build, install, wick and fire the coil. If by chance there is a hot spot/leg ....then the vape isn't going to be right. Is there any sure fire way to prevent this when using standard Kanthal given it's not a stock NR-R-NR coil?

Note; I've been rebuilding PT2 coils for a couple years. I do pulse them at low wattage for short periods, but eventually the insulators do get burnt and need replaced. Just something I've accepted. Wasn't sure if the insulators are available for the OCC ...thus the basis of my question.

Thanks,
 

stvn77

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Jan 31, 2012
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costa rica
Hello again fellow vapers, I bought my Dual airflow minis from uk ecig store (I live in the UK, so have no idea about where to find them in the US sorry), probably not the cheapest but they do stock the new ones. As promised, here are some pictures of the mini and also a few of the RBA deck.. These tanks are on a Istick 30w, this is not the subtank plus ! You can clearly see the tank flush with the Istick, 22mm - mini.
LEFT AIRFLOW
m7rym9.jpg


RIGHT AIRFLOW
5xmhg.jpg


DUAL :)
2643l39.jpg


You can clearly see the coil here inside and straight through the other side, this gives great airflow and tons of vaper
2b44r9.jpg


2cyjrz4.jpg


28v62kn.jpg


The two upgraded mini's and a Nano, which now feels like a tight draw and is collecting dust

s145km.jpg

thanks!!!
 
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cigatron

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May 14, 2014
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can someone help me on best way to rebuild OCC to avoid hot spots/legs? I've gone through my stash of OCC coils and want to rebuild them. Right now experimenting on getting the right amount of cotton for the RBA. Don't want to waste the OCC coils, so rebuilding seemed like the thing to do. I'm just afraid of that I'll burn the insulator/grommet if I pulse or test the coil. So many videos just build, install, wick and fire the coil. If by chance there is a hot spot/leg ....then the vape isn't going to be right. Is there any sure fire way to prevent this when using standard Kanthal given it's not a stock NR-R-NR coil?

Note; I've been rebuilding PT2 coils for a couple years. I do pulse them at low wattage for short periods, but eventually the insulators do get burnt and need replaced. Just something I've accepted. Wasn't sure if the insulators are available for the OCC ...thus the basis of my question.

Thanks,

Easy, don't wind contact coils....leave spaces between the turns. Spaced coils never hotleg.....can't, because there are no shorted turns.

Still care must be taken when dryburning so you don't get the legs too hot and burn the insulator.

As far as wicking for the rba....wick it very heavy.
 

Rixsta

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I've always liked my ST Mini but I have a whole new respect for my Mini RBA after modifying the juice channels with a Dremel and using .... Kickers wicking technique. IMO it flat rocks now!
That wicking method with larger juice holes just floods my coil, I have to wick much thicker, maybe your using a higher VG than me..
 
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