KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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The efest 3100mah 20a batt is not the best choice for low sub ohm builds. It's only 20A pulse and 6.8A continuous ouput as tested by a couple of reputable independent labs. They are rewrapped LG's as I recall. They tested to the full 3100mah however. They worked well at .8ohm and higher builds on my mech. Currently using Sony VTC4's and Samsung 25R's. Both great batts imo.
The Efest 35A 2500mah is 20A continuous discharge.
Not real fond of how Efest rates their batts at pulse discharge rates with no indication of continuous. Just say'n, buyer beware. Hate to see anyone get hurt
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That's great info.
I think he's more asking if using a mech mod with his mini is gonna be ok. I don't have a mech and only limited knowledge on them so I didn't answer.
No adjustment beyond changing coil ohms....the battery provides what it has to give... that's all I know about mechanicals.
Thanks cigatron. I will use them only for low wattage then. Good advice.
OK so, what does the 35A mean or matter to me then? Will these efest batts be safe to use on a 0.5 and above build on my subtank mini?
Let's set things straight.
The first iterations of the mini (call it beta version) were white, and nasty/faulty.
The second were transparent - and praised by Pumpkin Busardo as ”the real PEEK” wonder insulator.
As life proved in very little time after, the lauded transparent ones were also crap.
Enter the third iteration: the tan/brownish insulators. Which are what Kangertech USA already provides for like 50 cents if one wants to buy them (also crap, but unly because they don't really fit the Mini well, only the original Subtank.
The first iterations of the mini (call it beta version) were white, and nasty/faulty.
The second were transparent - and praised by Pumpkin Busardo as ”the real PEEK” wonder insulator.
As life proved in very little time after, the lauded transparent ones were also crap.
Enter the third iteration: the tan/brownish insulators. Which are what Kangertech USA already provides for like 50 cents if one wants to buy them (also crap, but unly because they don't really fit the Mini well, only the original Subtank.
This is the issue. No one has a credible source for this assertion, other than coming from the mouths of disgruntled forum users.
Mine is the tan/brownish and works well. No stink, no bad taste, and no melting or degradation. Although I do not use juices that would degrade it.
YUP. Read it. Also read that he said it was destroyed by heat, until he edited it in another thread.
The original white insulator that came with the full size Subtank is still fine for me. RY4 liquids mostly if it matters.
What's the problem again? Is it chemical degradation from liquid or heat? Does anyone really know?
What's the problem again? Is it chemical degradation from liquid or heat? Does anyone really know?
OK, I admit to being lazy here (don't want to read the entire thread, or even the search results) but can somebody tell me what gauge wire Kanger is using for the pre-built coils supplied with the RBA?
Thanks for indulging my lack of effort here...
Thanks for indulging my lack of effort here...
Officially Kanger says could fail with harsh juice. Pluid.
Here's mine after a week of solid use trying to make it fail with Cinnamon etc. So I'm calling shenanigans.
OK, I admit to being lazy here (don't want to read the entire thread, or even the search results) but can somebody tell me what gauge wire Kanger is using for the pre-built coils supplied with the RBA?
Thanks for indulging my lack of effort here...
Matching my effort with yours.... It feels like 26.
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