KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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I placed my order for my mini Saturday. Can anyone enlighten me on what the last update means in this tracking. To me it is still sitting in the same post office but below says in transit. Don't they usually say departed?
Ignore their tracking. USPS is the WORST about updating tracking info. Go by what type of shipping you paid for, and what day it says they picked it up, and go by that.
Thanks just wondering. I have another order that I ordered a day later from Hawaii and its already in Ohio. Just kinda seemed weird to me. Appreciate the reply.
Diminishing returns. We are gonna test that principle cig. But you make a good point. Actually reduce flow rate at a given pressure if I'm readin' you right.
(Better to adjust power and wicking density to define the boundaries.)
But you know I use priority wicking!
Good luck.
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Distilled water will reduce vapor outut/quality Bill. You'll also need some PG to help avert bacterial risk. Stick with VG dilution and I think you'll get what you need. Periodically running more significant dilution will help prolong the life of your wick (whatever type it may be).
Been mulling over this spitting/popping folks are experiencing with OCC. It's not unusual for cotton to do that breaking in or when it's still fresh and running dry. The VG density should help. I experienced it significantly with this tank too. The coils run hot.
Another point cigatron brought up on the ProtankMicro thread. Draw hard and you can unbalance the vacuum pressure in the tank and the wick can go moderately or very dry. He suggested a primer puff (blow lightly into the tank). I went a step further and cover the air hole when I very lightly puff. This seems to restore the balance of pressure (reduce vacuum buildup) and so flow…BAM, vapor clouds.
Small moves Bill.
Just a thought.
Good luck B.
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Day 12 on the same 1.2 OCC and still kicking strong at 18 watts. I bought 3 packs of 1.2 and .5 coils each. If they last as long as this one does, I won't be ordering new ones for a very long time. That I can handle
Boom eh? You must have the more expensive James Bond model with the explosives built in.
Sorry, I kid.Popping and juice splashing your tongue probably has a lot to do with WATTS and VG/PG ratio of the juice. There is a happy medium in there somewhere. It's hard for someone to say 'this fixes that" but you could make it better by adjustment. I found some juice just pops a lot no matter what.
I get fluid up in the drip tip and where it seats in the top. It's more condensation than juice. Fairly common for the amount of vapor it produces and temp changes in winter etc.
I was like that with Sub Zero for a long time. My juice consumption went up a lot since then though and I really don't want to be spending 40 bucks a week on juice lol.
To contribute to the main topic of this thread though, I just got home with my new Subtank Mini and I'm loving it so much
need more info. 0.5 him head, 1.2? RBA? 50/50 juice? What wattage?
0.5 head, original coil, 50/50 yaeliq juice @ 17-22 W
Skickat från min D6503 via Tapatalk
So I'm using this sucker on an EVOD Mega battery until my MVP 3 gets here next week.
For lulz I decided to pop it on a 650mAh EVOD battery, and it STILL CHUCKS CLOUDS.
I don't even know what's going on right now, my mind can't comprehend the awesomeness of this tank.
For lulz I decided to pop it on a 650mAh EVOD battery, and it STILL CHUCKS CLOUDS.
I don't even know what's going on right now, my mind can't comprehend the awesomeness of this tank.
Try some thicker juice. If you have some VG around put about half a tank of VG in with your yaeliq and swoosh it around. See how that works.
You MAY find that the increased performance of the ST Mini will compensate for the diluted juice and actually give you better (or similar) flavor compared to what you might be used to. Dunno
ONE thing I CAN say... Today I had my mini/iStick 30 in my shirt pocket while working up a sweat outside (doesn't happen often these days LOL). When I came back in I got the super hot vape / pop & spit / wet drippy drip tip some of y'all have been complaining about. NOW I feel your pain. It was NOT GOOD.
What happened was my normally thick juice got thin due to increased temp in my sweaty pocket. The thinner juice ran through those huge juice holes in the OCC and over-saturated my wick & coil.
To fix it I just let it sit on the table and cool down a bit (juice in tank got thicker again). Once the juice in the tank returned to proper viscosity (70VG/30PG) I STILL had to deal with the flooded wick & coil. SO I just dialed the wattage down to like 6 or 7 / opened air flow wide open / and started taking quick back to back long heavy mouth hits without inhaling. Since airflow was wide open I was vaping faster than the tank could resupply juice to the wick so it slowly dried out. Once I felt the vapor starting to change to a more normal vape I set the wattage back up to normal and everything was great again... no harm no foul.
Moral of the story: Thin juice and an ST OCC head may not be such a good combination. Get you some 70 or higher VG juice and lower your nic to 6 or less. Then crank up the watts and enjoy. The increased vapor production and density of the ST mini will MORE than make up for the flavor you lose with a higher VG juice.
Hope this helps someone. Take Care!
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Little tip for all the Sub tank and mini users out there. I wasat my local vape shop yesterday doing a new build and trying to find some new juices.
Well my local shop has a "drip tasting juice bar" so what i did was used my RBA section as a dripper while i was in the shop so i could try all of the new juices!
WORKS GREAT! TRY IT OUT!
Well my local shop has a "drip tasting juice bar" so what i did was used my RBA section as a dripper while i was in the shop so i could try all of the new juices!
WORKS GREAT! TRY IT OUT!
I just finally got my 6mg non-PG Mythos Athena juice in today (Dessert Tobacco). I'm trying it out right now on the Subtank Mini. Much better than my overly thin 12mg VG juice I was using before. No more popping when first taking a drag (regardless of which air hole I'm on), but the coil still crackles some at higher wattages - which I think is normal. 6mg juice is still clearly too much nicotine, but it is more manageable when taking mouth-to-lung hits. Even using 1.2 ohm heads, I think the Subtank may just be too hot a vape for me, as I keep finding myself dialing down the wattage. I'm at 11 watts now, and may go down further. 11 watts isn't too bad, and it still gives me a bit more flavor and vapor compared to my usual 2.1 ohm TDC iClear 16s, but not by a huge margin.
I'm still struggling to get the Subtank running in a way that I will prefer over an iClear 16 set at around 3.5 volts. So far, the Subtank has a propensity for making me cough after a few drags at anything over 11 watts (3.6 volts). Going to an even lower strength juice would help, but I'm feeling even that might not be enough. I may have to try building a higher resistance coil on the Subtank's RBA deck, but I was really hoping to avoid rebuilding again. I may have to give up on the idea of using a "sub ohm" tank altogether. Instead, this tank could just end up being the equivalent of a 1.5 ohm range high juice capacity "clearomizer" for me. That isn't a terrible thing, but maybe something cheaper (like an eLeaf tank?) would have been better suited for a job like that.
I'm still struggling to get the Subtank running in a way that I will prefer over an iClear 16 set at around 3.5 volts. So far, the Subtank has a propensity for making me cough after a few drags at anything over 11 watts (3.6 volts). Going to an even lower strength juice would help, but I'm feeling even that might not be enough. I may have to try building a higher resistance coil on the Subtank's RBA deck, but I was really hoping to avoid rebuilding again. I may have to give up on the idea of using a "sub ohm" tank altogether. Instead, this tank could just end up being the equivalent of a 1.5 ohm range high juice capacity "clearomizer" for me. That isn't a terrible thing, but maybe something cheaper (like an eLeaf tank?) would have been better suited for a job like that.
Hello, hello,
I read through the whole thread (skimmed some) to see if there has been any input on this. I'm new to building, and had a couple successful coils on the Sub Mini so far got it Feb 9. First attempt, wrapping around the screwdriver that came with it, and 5 tries to get the wraps perfectly adjacent to each other. Wicked using youtube vids and this forum and worked great. (use KGD)
So....wanted to up the ohms in effort to keep heat down, so went for a larger diameter (only have 26g A1 right now). Wrapped 8-9 around a 1/8 bit (again 5ish tries to get the wraps adjacent again......I'm very picky haha) and came in at 1.4 ohms....wicked again, and worked excellent.
Latest build was drill bit size (can't remember) between the 1/8 and screwdriver, used less wick as I tried the technique on youtube of pulling off the outer pressed sheets of the KGD and then using the remaining inner lair. wicked a little less tension through the coil, but I think I left the tails too long as I was getting dry/burnt hits this morning, although it was good last night......I'll use the previous posts recommendations to use the base as a guide and leave room away from the juice channels.
Well....that's my experience thus far....only had 1 day on the 1.2 OCC before trying building, and I really enjoy the tinkering.
But this got me thinking, and I can't seem to find answers online:
1.) should I try to place the coil as close as possible to the air channel? or try to raise higher? what are the affects of each?
2.) since we can't buy an RBA spare yet, the only options for backup, is re-wicking/re-building or bringing along an OCC.
- Since I can't rebuild at work, OCC is the best option. But I don't bring juice with me, so how would you guys prime a change out on the run?
today after the burnt/dry hits, I did replace with 1.2 OCC, left for 2 hrs, then pulling on it with airflow closed or one hole as others suggested......but I'm really worried about taking a "true" drag.....haha.....I works, and no dry hits so far, but wattage is knocked right back (16-18W) and only 2 sec max draw, cause if I burn it now, I have no backups.
I appreciate input for future considerations.
Cheers!
I read through the whole thread (skimmed some) to see if there has been any input on this. I'm new to building, and had a couple successful coils on the Sub Mini so far got it Feb 9. First attempt, wrapping around the screwdriver that came with it, and 5 tries to get the wraps perfectly adjacent to each other. Wicked using youtube vids and this forum and worked great. (use KGD)
So....wanted to up the ohms in effort to keep heat down, so went for a larger diameter (only have 26g A1 right now). Wrapped 8-9 around a 1/8 bit (again 5ish tries to get the wraps adjacent again......I'm very picky haha) and came in at 1.4 ohms....wicked again, and worked excellent.
Latest build was drill bit size (can't remember) between the 1/8 and screwdriver, used less wick as I tried the technique on youtube of pulling off the outer pressed sheets of the KGD and then using the remaining inner lair. wicked a little less tension through the coil, but I think I left the tails too long as I was getting dry/burnt hits this morning, although it was good last night......I'll use the previous posts recommendations to use the base as a guide and leave room away from the juice channels.
Well....that's my experience thus far....only had 1 day on the 1.2 OCC before trying building, and I really enjoy the tinkering.
But this got me thinking, and I can't seem to find answers online:
1.) should I try to place the coil as close as possible to the air channel? or try to raise higher? what are the affects of each?
2.) since we can't buy an RBA spare yet, the only options for backup, is re-wicking/re-building or bringing along an OCC.
- Since I can't rebuild at work, OCC is the best option. But I don't bring juice with me, so how would you guys prime a change out on the run?
today after the burnt/dry hits, I did replace with 1.2 OCC, left for 2 hrs, then pulling on it with airflow closed or one hole as others suggested......but I'm really worried about taking a "true" drag.....haha.....I works, and no dry hits so far, but wattage is knocked right back (16-18W) and only 2 sec max draw, cause if I burn it now, I have no backups.
I appreciate input for future considerations.
Cheers!
Dmeinder, it is good to see you are getting good performance at marginally higher ohm resistance levels. Typically, it is recommended that you get the coils as low over the air channel as you can get without touching the deck itself and potentially causing a short. I'm not sure how much it really matters though. I haven't built and mounted a coil in about a year. You don't bring spare juice with you when you are out and about? Bring some spare juice, in like an easy to carry 10ml plastic bottle. I always carry a little spare juice (and sometimes a lot), just in case. It can be very handy at times, and a life saver at other times. With your 1.4 ohm build, how much cooler was the vape? How did flavor and vapor compare to the stock 1.2 OCC? How much longer were you able to draw on the tank with the rebuilt coil in comparison to the stock coil?
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