KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[USMCotaku]

I just finished rebuilding the 2 occ heads, and success, I think, have to go get another mini at the B&M a little later to try one in. I built it to go on my Provari P3 using 30g Kanthal, 3mm I.D. I was shooting for 2.5Ω and got 2.7 - 2.8 Ω. Close enough for now I think. The first one I did was a lot of futzing around getting the coil to stay centered and straight to the side holes, but finally got it. The second one went much easier. So will test one later today when I get the tank.

Did you run something through the holes and your coil? That's the easiest way to keep the coil aligned with the holes... Once the pin is in place, you are golden

 

[oplholik]

I used a small screwdriver with a 3mm shaft. When I pull the screw driver out it pulls the coil out of alignment. I wrapped the coil using the 3mm coilmaster mandrel. How you align the coil legs, and bend them over for the +/- also affects how it will align, which I also had trouble with.

 

[Zanzabar78]

Is mouth to lung still possible with the new dual slot airflow mini base?

 

[Nailz]

Is mouth to lung still possible with the new dual slot airflow mini base?

I have the dual airflow base on the subtank plus, I have it on the second airflow setting and mouth to lung hit with it, fully open it is to airer for mouth to lung for me.

 

[USMCotaku]

I used a small screwdriver with a 3mm shaft. When I pull the screw driver out it pulls the coil out of alignment. I wrapped the coil using the 3mm coilmaster mandrel. How you align the coil legs, and bend them over for the +/- also affects how it will align, which I also had trouble with.

Probably an issue with variances between the two items. I've got bits that don't like to come out of coils, it seems they are slightly larger at the ends. As to pinning, I always use the little notch to trap one leg, and the one on the inside of the grommet I trim prior to pinning just below level with the edge of the grommet. In that way it makes contact with the pin, bit doesn't stick out any

 

[oplholik]

Thanks for the info USMC.

 

[oplholik]

Gonna be a couple days before I can get back to playing with it. I have my hobby room all tore up trying to get it cleaned up and more organized in preparation for a new work bench.

 

[USMCotaku]

Thanks for the info USMC.

No prob, if you have troubles I'll take pics of my next rebuild

 

[oplholik]

@USMCotaku, What gauge wire do you rebuild with? I'm thinking a lot of my problems comes from using 30g. It might be easier using a thicker wire that isn't as flimsy, and would be less likely to move around easily. I've got some 28g I think I will try when I can get back to it. I just had to go and start tearing my room apart to get it cleaned up, now I can't do anything in there.

 

[USMCotaku]

@USMCotaku, What gauge wire do you rebuild with? I'm thinking a lot of my problems comes from using 30g. It might be easier using a thicker wire that isn't as flimsy, and would be less likely to move around easily. I've got some 28g I think I will try when I can get back to it. I just had to go and start tearing my room apart to get it cleaned up, now I can't do anything in there.

My prefered gauge for the sub tanks, both rba and occ is 26

 

[Shawn Hoefer]

My prefered gauge for the sub tanks, both rba and occ is 26

Gotta agree here. I tried some 24 in the occ, and it is very stiff and hard to manipulate. The 28 is kinda too small.

 

[USMCotaku]

Gotta agree here. I tried some 24 in the occ, and it is very stiff and hard to manipulate. The 28 is kinda too small.

And 24 will often tear/split the grommet on the occ heads

 

[USMCotaku]

That being said, I'm using 24 gauge in an occ head right now... Ran out of 26
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[oplholik]

Well, I got a space cleared away and tried installing a coil made with some 28g Kanthal, and it didn't go any better. Guess I'm gonna have to look up some more vids to see how it's done. Problem continues to be the coil goes all out of alignment after getting the coil legs bent over and taking out the 3mm rod, (the neg leg being laid down in a slot). Grr. Just not getting those two legs in the correct spot to keep the coil aligned.

 

[USMCotaku]

Try 26 gauge. You will probably have better luck
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[oplholik]

26 I don't have at the moment, got to order some to have on hand.

 

[Shawn Hoefer]

I keep 24-32 kanthal on hand, and now I'm starting to collect some nickel... just 30 on hand and 28 ordered. Tonight's vape is a twisted (1.7 pitch) 30 ni200, 3.5 mm id, 7 wraps to .1 ohm in my Kanger Subtank Mini on a new dna40 set to 380 at 16 watts. Wow.

 

[USMCotaku]

Ok, here is a pic tutorial on the occ coil.....

insert coil through top hole legs first.

pin coil through wick holes.

bend negative leg through notch (doesn't matter which leg, choose one that is closest to one of the two notches)

install grommet

trim positive leg flush with grommet

install pin, trim remaining leg as close as possible

twist one end of wick tightly to a point... Twist wick while pulling through will help keep coil straight (I'm using rayon....needs to be tighter then cotton)

trim cotton

using a small blunt tool, poke wick into the holes.

finished product
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[USMCotaku]

Hope that helps... Took longer to post then it does to do the coil
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[oplholik]

@USMCotaku, thanks for the pics. You aren't folding the positive over the grommet obviously, as I have been trying to do. That would make it easier. Now, I think I get it. What does that build meter with the 26g wire?