KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[MacTechVpr]

hey all. This thread is sooo big, I don't have the time to read through it. But I need to replace the rda. Everytime I go to fill my tank, and unscrew the bottom the top cap of the rda stays inside on the tank (no matter how tight I screw it on) Question is the new style rba plus combatable with the old? I can't find it in stock anywhere. Or should I just get the original and just mod the old style again, for better juice flow.

Interesting post. If I read ya right you're talking about the RDA top cap itself. Yeah, real PIA. Have to fish it out with a forceps. There's bound to be a bit of variation in the cap opening diameter for the stem. But the chimney stem itself tends to pick up some crusting of caramelized juice on its very tip and a bit up the stem. This can present just enough drag to unscrew the top cap as you remove the base from the atomizer. Unfortunately tightening the cap too much can make it hard to get off.

Every other fill or so I take a cue tip to the stem tip and just around it to remove any visible deposits. And I try to remember to make sure the cap is snug on this particular RBA head. This has made this surprise infrequent.

While you're at it after the stem wipe remove most of the cotton off the cue tip and run it up the stem. You might be surprised how much of those deposits are accumulating in the stem. They can affect both taste and draw.

Good luck all.



p.s. While you're at it, invert the base and blow out the RBA from the 510 connection into a tissue, etc. Some moisture can collect at the bottom of the core and this will restore proper airflow. Make sure the base is dry itself before reassembly.

 

[vincom]

Thanks for the reply cigatron, I found the new style plus on fasttech it was only about 3 bucks, and will ship tomorrow. I'm leary on the the two large juice holes in the side. Not sure if it's going to be a pia. to get the wicking correct.

I do like the original style too. but sometimes the bottom piece is a pia to screw off too. I did manage to finally figure out that running it under cold water first will shrink the metal and light force to unscrew. lol I did take a dremal and make the juice channels larger. I tend to chain vape and was getting to many dry hits.

On my next fill up I will try putting a bit of juice on the oring. I never had this problem when I first got the tank. I've used the RBA since day one.

for unscrewing chimney - -repeatedly tap tap the rba on a hard service, stupid simple?, yes! but it works like a charm

 

[vincom]

i was bored one day and i dremelled out the rba juice channels on one of my stmini rba decks.
wow what a diff, better juicy flavor, able to handle higher watts and longer hits and nay a dry hit or flood.
i then realized my other rba sucked in comparison, i decided i was going to also take the knife to it.
upon close inspection of the juice channels, i have sucky eyesight, one of the juice channels looked/is smaller compared to the one on the other side.

now theyre both vaping like a champ, plus they hit harder than b4.

warning: performing this operation will consume/vape more juice

so i used my dremel tool w/a cutoof disc to widen both channels up.

and this is the result. i increased the size of both channels.

backside

b4 and after side by side

 

[cigatron]

for unscrewing chimney - -repeatedly tap tap the rba on a hard service, stupid simple?, yes! but it works like a charm

I've used that technique before but found an easier one. I loosen both the top cap and chimney before removing either one. Works every time and I don't have to knock my atty around.

 

[vincom]

I've used that technique before but found an easier one. I loosen both the top cap and chimney before removing either one. Works every time and I don't have to knock my atty around.

um, the problem is the loosening of the chimney, that's what the taping does, it loosens the chimney so we can work on the deck

 

[cigatron]

um, the problem is the loosening of the chimney, that's what the taping does, it loosens the chimney so we can work on the deck

Yes, and I loosen both before removing either. When I go to service the atty if the chimney comes loose first I grasp and hold it to loosen the cap, then I remove both from the rba base. If the cap loosens first I grasp the cap and chimney at the same time to loosen the chimney, then remove both from the rba base. It works every time on my three rbas and the dozens of others I have worked on.
Basically this technique just keeps the chimney's shape from being distorted which is what can sometimes make them so hard to separate.

 

[Diyguy]

Yes, and I loosen both before removing either. When I go to service the atty if the chimney comes loose first I grasp and hold it to loosen the cap, then I remove both from the rba base. If the cap loosens first I grasp the cap and chimney at the same time to loosen the chimney, then remove both from the rba base. It works every time on my three rbas and the dozens of others I have worked on.
Basically this technique just keeps the chimney's shape from being distorted which is what can sometimes make them so hard to separate.

I can attest that this works, every time.

 

[132sdrifter]

My coils work great at first, but before I finish a tank full it starts running hot. I have the IStick 30. Quick run down. Make a coil using Kanthal A1 26, 6 wraps, burn in spaced coil, red from center out. When it starts to run hot I drop down from 30 to 25 then 20 by then it's time for a refill. I figure may as well put in a new wick. I check the coil and do a dry burn. Coil is getting red from the outside in. And she gets red red almost white. Blow the wee bit of dust off and the next dry burn it works like it should, inside out. I'm missing something here folks. I gotta say though, the first couple hits are amazing and then it's down hill from there. Ideas?

 

[cigatron]

My coils work great at first, but before I finish a tank full it starts running hot. I have the IStick 30. Quick run down. Make a coil using Kanthal A1 26, 6 wraps, burn in spaced coil, red from center out. When it starts to run hot I drop down from 30 to 25 then 20 by then it's time for a refill. I figure may as well put in a new wick. I check the coil and do a dry burn. Coil is getting red from the outside in. And she gets red red almost white. Blow the wee bit of dust off and the next dry burn it works like it should, inside out. I'm missing something here folks. I gotta say though, the first couple hits are amazing and then it's down hill from there. Ideas?

Try wicking with more cotton. Quickly failing vapor and flavor production accompanied by high heat early through the tank is a good indication of underwicking.

Coils will bake juice deposits onto the center of the coil first, that's where the heat develops first and stays the hottest longest. Those deposits (gunk) will eventually slow the heating of center most turns of the coil resulting in an outside to inside firing of the coil. Underwicked coils allow all of this to happen faster, sometimes very fast if severely under wicked. After a couple of dryburns the deposits burn off and the coil returns to normal inside to outside firing behavior.

Hope this helps,
Cig

 

[chanelvaps]

Try wicking with more cotton. Quickly failing vapor and flavor production accompanied by high heat early through the tank is a good indication of underwicking.

Coils will bake juice deposits onto the center of the coil first, that's where the heat develops first and stays the hottest longest. Those deposits (gunk) will eventually slow the heating of center most turns of the coil resulting in an outside to inside firing of the coil. Underwicked coils allow all of this to happen faster, sometimes very fast if severely under wicked. After a couple of dryburns the deposits burn off and the coil returns to normal inside to outside firing behavior.

Hope this helps,
Cig

very good tip Cig and thanks

 

[vjdossey]

I've used that technique before but found an easier one. I loosen both the top cap and chimney before removing either one. Works every time and I don't have to knock my atty around.[emoji14]

Me too! I used to tap, hell I'll admit I sometimes throw my rba agsinst a hard surface to get it to come loose but ever since I saw cigatron mention keeping the cap on the chimney while taking it off the rba I haven't had to beat up my rba. Such a simple solution!!! Lol

 

[vjdossey]

STmini UPDATE: So I've had STminis since their introduction and have tried to run them to death. I'm strictly an rba user as I've never been happy with the flavor production of the occ's. I've run kanthal, nichrome, nickel-200 and titanium-g1on the rbas and have had no problems making each build work flawlessly at 30w with 75vg juice. You just can't kill these things. They have never leaked, threads have not stripped out, glass has not broken even when dropped (ymmv), super easy to fill and they have sufficient airflow to chain vape up to 45w with 60vg juice without modifications.

For temp control the STmini is rock solid with no res fluctuations. A ti build in an STmini on an Evic VT60 temp control mod is an absolutely stellar vape; as close to dripper flavor as I've ever been with a tank.

I'm talking about V1 STminis here, the rbas with juice channels, not the newer "plus" rba version with holes that peeps are calling V2's. The V2's may work even better, don't know, but if any of you out there are on the fence about buying a rebuildable tank, take the plunge, I think you will be happy with the STmini.

Cig

I agree, these tanks are awesome. I am no where as experienced as you are with builds but I love my 4 STM. However, I love to shop for new vape gear and recently have had the itch to buy so I've been trying yo find a new tank or something. I don't have a real need, other than I have two mods that don't have tanks on em all the time. I keep going back and fourth and tell myself, I may as well just get two more of the tanks I know I love... I know theres a lot more I can still do and learn using these so.... why not stick with em?!
I am tinkering with making my own juice now, since with the stm I blow through juice way faster... I wonder if there is a smaller/similar tank I could use to test my juices? Not the nano, cuz I love the rba option especially for testing juice...

 

[AmandaD]

I agree, these tanks are awesome. I am no where as experienced as you are with builds but I love my 4 STM. However, I love to shop for new vape gear and recently have had the itch to buy so I've been trying yo find a new tank or something. I don't have a real need, other than I have two mods that don't have tanks on em all the time. I keep going back and fourth and tell myself, I may as well just get two more of the tanks I know I love... I know theres a lot more I can still do and learn using these so.... why not stick with em?!
I am tinkering with making my own juice now, since with the stm I blow through juice way faster... I wonder if there is a smaller/similar tank I could use to test my juices? Not the nano, cuz I love the rba option especially for testing juice...

You can use the RBA portion as a dripper - just put some juice in, put the tank together - and voila, instant dripper Or just fill it half way up if you want to test a ml or two?

 

[Kwtony]

A little funny story about a SUBTANK the met another Subtank.....

I was waiting for my food today while puffing on my new favorite Hermetic Steam Magenta when a big group of people came in...i noticed something in one of the ladies hands that caught my eye

They are doing family things and tending to the little one....I walk by her to get my delicious burrito and instantly notice a familiar sight and said "nice subtank" and it sparked a fantastic 30 minuet conversation!

I believe 100000% If we were nasty cancer stick smokers, we would have coughed as we choked up nasty tar and .....ed about how expensive a pack was, or whatever those smelly (but still good)people do these days, and we would have had to do it OUTSIDE of the food area. No massive clouds here, we were both low key and keeping it easy. We got what we needed and didn't offend anyone at all

Its funny how such a small thing like saying "nice subtank" could bring on such a liberating and fantastic conversation that was truly powerful. No wonder the cigarette companies are doing their very best to spear us. This kind of power can really spark a movement. Thats why they are fighting tooth&nail to ostracize us and make it look like we are the bad people....

"I am a miracle made up of particles, and in this existence, I'll stay persistent, I'll make a difference, and I will have lived it. Aloha, ke akua, kuleana"

Sunset from the other day look at the Island of Sugarloaf, mm19

Haters gunna hate, but us vapers are still gunna vape !

 

[vjdossey]

You can use the RBA portion as a dripper - just put some juice in, put the tank together - and voila, instant dripper Or just fill it half way up if you want to test a ml or two?

Perfect!!! See, no reason to buy anything new lol!!! thank you

 

[132sdrifter]

Try wicking with more cotton. Quickly failing vapor and flavor production accompanied by high heat early through the tank is a good indication of underwicking.

Coils will bake juice deposits onto the center of the coil first, that's where the heat develops first and stays the hottest longest. Those deposits (gunk) will eventually slow the heating of center most turns of the coil resulting in an outside to inside firing of the coil. Underwicked coils allow all of this to happen faster, sometimes very fast if severely under wicked. After a couple of dryburns the deposits burn off and the coil returns to normal inside to outside firing behavior.

Hope this helps,
Cig

I'll give it a go. I'm putting in a fairly thick wick, at least I thought so. I'll try a thicker piece.

 

[132sdrifter]

For taking the RBA apart. I don't tighten cylinder nor the cap, well the cap contacts the cylinder, but that's it, no tighter than a touch. I leave the cylinder a half turn loose.

 

[cigatron]

For taking the RBA apart. I don't tighten cylinder nor the cap, well the cap contacts the cylinder, but that's it, no tighter than a touch. I leave the cylinder a half turn loose.

You can do that if you want but I would worry about the chimney tightening the rest of the way when I screw the tank on. I'm very particular about the positioning of the wick tails in the juice well and wouldn't feel comfortable about them moving out of position if the chimney rotated during tank install. Just sayn'.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I'll give it a go. I'm putting in a fairly thick wick, at least I thought so. I'll try a thicker piece.

On "Chunky" Wicking

These days it's always as much KGD as I can stuff in the coil. Original ST juice channels are quite adequate for that (even if airflow a limit). The RBA feeds need a little coaxing with a fine metal file. This will max out the juice flow potential. May be too much for the power level you like. Or, you may prefer a more diffuse vape (less flow, more power, higher aspect wind). Scale back a bit but at least you're getting enough flow to be sure. In the wayback, original answers from me and cig on wicking…

Or the opposite could be true.

I'm not sayin' that blocking the juice flow might not be a problem. But what difference does it make keeping it clear if there's not enough wicking media there to carry the flow?

Me, I'd pack a lot of media as much as the wind requires and split the wick (slightly) to make sure the fluid port is clear. Or you might not see the flow you're expecting and doubt your idea (which happens to be good). The thin, barely touching part, I'd lose.

Good luck bw.



p.s. Split-wick for an Immortalizer to catch the drip on both opposing interior walls (6/1/2014)…

Absolutely true. Thinning or spreading out the wick tails is going to diminish its ability to flow. It ruins the capillary action of the wick tails. Sure, its' logical to assume that covering a wider area for absorbtion would help but the speed of juice transport is more important than absorbency in this case. Capillary wins hands down.

Keeping the tails compacted together as much as possible while leaving the juice channels clear and dry hits will be a thing of the past.

Bw86, you're right on about the length of the wick tails. Cut them to just barely graze the deck but there is one gotcha to the program. The tails will lift off the deck when the wick gets saturated with juice because the fibers are absorbent and swell up. So I always cut the tails slightly longer to account for it. About .5mm. I do not do rabbit ears. I cut,wet and set the wick on the deck before screwing on the lower chimney. Final adjustments to clear the wick from the juice channels can then accomplished after the lower chimney is on.

One more trick I use to ensure that ALL the fibers are in contact with the deck is to cut the wick tails off at a 45° angle. That way when it gets bent downward all the fiber ends sit flat on the deck instead of just the inner ones. It's a "radius of the bend" thing.

Oh, and wick it chunky. Keep trying more and more wicking density until you KNOW it's negatively effecting juice transport. The more wick you use the faster it will transport juice; up to a certain point. When you get it right you should see an air bubble rise in the tank after every vape or two. Air no go inny; juice no come outty!

Moderately moisten the wick before closing up. Give it a soft tug covering the airflow before firing. This should be enough to ensure saturation. It will of course have the drier texture of a fresh cotton install but it will break in and stabilize. So give it a bit for conclusions.

Good luck all.

 

[Mowgli]

For anyone that forgot how the ridiculously simple q-tip method works...