Kayfun lite coil problem

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MPrint

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Mar 19, 2014
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Burlington, N.C.
So I got a Brass Stingray and a kayfun lite plus a couple weeks ago. Watched rips build video and got my first coil up and running fairly quickly. When it was time to change my coil, it proved to be a little more difficult the second time around. My leads kept slipping out from under the screw when I would tighten them down. I finally got it set by not cranking it down super-tight. Now I might be worried about a safety issue however.
1. If my coils somehow slip out while vaping, can this cause a short? Will it cause my battery to fail?
2. Any helpful tips to keeping those leads seated so I can really crank the screws down.

Any help on this would be awesome guys, thanks.
 
Hi, I have had my Kayfun lite for about 2 months now and you're problems are almost identical to how mine were at first.
First off what gauge kanthal are you using? Anything below 26g can be a little difficult to rap around the screw.

What I usually do is cut about 6-8 inches of my kanthal to have plenty of wire to work with when rapping the coil and rapping my leads.
Then I keep my drill bit or precision screw driver in the coil while I begin to rap it around the screws. This gives you a lot of leverage on the coil when rapping the leads and prevents you from un-rapping the coil.

Then, while I take my drill bit with the coil still on it, I position it over the air hole about 1mm or 2mm and try to rap 1 whole rap around the screw on one side and then tighten it down fairly snug.

And then I take my drill bit in the coil I rap the other side 1 whole rap and cut the excess wire. After that I pull up firmly ( but not too hard) on the coil to
insure that there is sufficient air flow and also to pull any slack out of the coil.

P.S I also screw my base into my mod to give me even more leverage. (Make sure you turn mod off or take battery out)

I hoped this helped you :toast:
 
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MrPlink

Ultra Member
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Mar 7, 2014
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Portland, OR / San Francisco CA
If it comes out it could short.
If it shorts and you keep firing things could go bad for the battery.

So if you fire, and nothing happens but you notice things getting really toasty.

STOP immediately.

Remove the battery if possible and place it somewhere safe (esp if very hot)

If the whole mod seems too hot to remove the battery then just place the entire device somewhere safe in case the battery vents.

Realistically assuming you are not continually trying to fire a shorted mod it shouldnt come to any of this.

And for anyone who may be freaked out, following proper battery protocol, taking care of your mod, and NOT trying to fire a short will avoid you any catastrophic failures.
 

danny4x4

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Feb 22, 2013
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What they all said, wrap the wire around the screw before tightening. Most YouTube clips I've seen of people mounting the coils don't do that. They just trap the wire and then tighten. There's no need to follow them exactly. Personally, prefer to wrap it around the screw once, tighten, and then FOLD the wire over the screw head and trim off excess.
 
I use 28ga kanthal in my KFLP2 and don't have these issues, even with wrapping the leads against the threads of the screws. I built a KayFun for a customer at my vape shop and he requested a lower resistance build so I used 26ga. It took me a couple of coils because the 26ga liked to pop out from under the screw.

No matter the gauge or wrapping against or with the threads, wrapping the lead around the screw one or two times will solve that issue.
 

David1975

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Apr 30, 2014
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Northlake, IL, USA
I've been using the Kayfun almost exclusively since I got it. One thing I have notice, is many videos show you to wrap the wires counter clock wise around the screws..... as an auto mechanic for YEARS, I knew this was a BAD IDEA. Here's why, your screw tightens clock wise..... so, when you wrap counter and tighten clock wise, your releasing tension on the wire. Wrap it clock wise and it actually tightens the wire as you tighten the screw. Once the screws are tight, (with drill still inserted) lift the coil off the air way. You will find the lead wires are tighter, and the coil tightens around the bit a little (helps hold shape). ALSO, a LOT of the clones have problems with the center pin. This ranges from it contacting the sides of the 510 to being loose on the deck. An old Protank coil O-ring will help the 510 issue, and a piece of cotton between the + and - post on top will help against the deck pins touching when putting it on or off a MOD (yes, too loose and just putting it on and off a batter will case it to shift on the deck).
 
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