Kayfun Lite Plus won't fire on APV, but reads fine on ohn meter and fires on mech mod

[Sohtem]

Greetings,

I would first like to thank you all for this portion of the forum. While this is my first time posting here, I have discovered many answers to my problems over the last two years.

Quick background: Been using APV's for two years (and make my own ejuice). Recently, started playing with mech mods, and just last week, decided to buy a kayfun Lite Plus (it is a clone...cannot seem to determine which one, box just says kayfun lite plus, no company identification...it has a fill-hole in the bottom and a side screw for adjusting air flow).

After several failed attempts at building a coil, I built one to 1.76 ohms (as read on my ohm meter). On my Nemesis clone, it works. It is just like all the videos I watched...no shorts...lights from the center out...glorious). I put it on my iTaste MVP2, and it reads "Non" which is what it reads when there is no atomizer. I did not think too much of it (the MVP2 has occasionally been touchy in the past) until I bought a Hana Clone this weekend and it reads "Check Atomizer" which is what it says when there is no atty attached. Both of these devices work fine with my aspire attys and 1.76 is definitely within the specs of the devices.

The Kayfun does not seem to have a short, its positive terminal is not touching its negative one (these are the solutions I found when I searched for this), and it appears to work correctly on the Nemesis. Any help on getting this to work with my regulated devices?

Thank you for your time.

 

[steved5600]

I have run into this have a couple of mechs that don't like one of my kayfuns. It's the center pin i bet. What i did on that one kayfun was take an insulator off an old Protank head the one of the bottom. Using a razor blade or sharp exacto blade shave off the largest part of the Insulator then remove the center pin on the kayfun add that insulator an reinstall he center pin. You can also get a kit from Fat Daddies that has all new parts including new insulators, center pin and spare screws. That may fix it. The other way to fix this is you may be able to pry up the center pin of the mod so it will meet the kayfuns pin. The less desirable would be to try a 510 to 510 adapter.

 

[xyanide]

If it's a true 1:1 clone you can try ordering some genuine kayfun lite spare parts for the center pin.
One reason I heard that causes boxmods to misfire is that the 510 is sitting too deep as a whole (if it becomes flush before making a proper connection). A method to fix that is to crank down your atty slightly and then back it off. Don't use gorilla strength, just repeat it a few times.

I haven't done this myself but I read about people doing it.

 

[DavidOck]

Many of the KF's have an adjustable pin. Try backing it out just a touch, say 1/4 or 1/2 turn.

 

[Rodeorat]

Many of the KF's have an adjustable pin. Try backing it out just a touch, say 1/4 or 1/2 turn.

On the Kayfun Lite, the 510 pin holds down the positive block on the deck, so its not adjustable. Only solution is the remove the pin and add a spacer/washer, etc.

 

[DreamWithin]

I've had the issue before where the positive pins of atty and mod don't quite make contact. An inexpensive fix that was suggested to me was this little circuit board spacer. Drops right inside the mod's 510 connector and there's no chance of it shorting between the positive and negative of the connector since the outer ring of it is non-conductive plastic

For the record, I used this fix on a couple mechanical mods so I don't know if there will still be any issues with a regulated one, though I suspect it will work just fine