Hello fellow vapers!
I decided to do a quick write up about some issues I have had with my Russian 91% and a the solutions I have came up with to fix them. At around $100 USD price point I would think and hope the R&D depts. at KeBo and or SvoёMesto would have caught these issues and addressed them before putting their products on the market. I can imagine anyone with a Kayfun Lite etc. would have the same problems and could benefit from this. on a side note, I normally run my Russian at 1.2 ohms single coil @ 12 watts on a Sigelei 20w mod. I vape 12mg, 50/50 e-juice on Japanese cotton.
The first issue that I would like to address is the fill hole tapered screw that can leak one day and be fine the next. I ended up taking a tiny triangle edged file and making a relief at the bottom of the head and beginning of the threads for one of the tiny o-rings supplied in the extras bag. I got the head to fit almost flush with the bottom of the base unit, and then filed the top of the head flush. Works like a charm and the top of my Sigelei 20w stays dry! (like it should!)
The second issue is the center post, not the 510 screw, we will get to that! The center post inherently is very difficult to properly torque. The post goes through 2 insulators and secures the positive mounting block to the deck. To accomplish this properly you must torque this post enough to overcome the torque applied to the positive mounting screw. Sounds simple, but that little screw acts like torque multiplier and will twist the positive block off center. If you torque the center post too much you risk squishing the top isolator which will force the positive block to tilt and extend the pin above the block (normally the pin sticks out .010" anyway, which I filed off flat to the block). The Russian 91% I bought had a fairly soft top insulator, after flattening it i ended up ordering a 5 pack from kidneypuncher.com. These seemed to be a little harder allowing a little more torque. With a tiny amount of loctite-242 (just enough to fill the threads) you are able to get the center pin, top insulator, and positive block just right and it will not move when you are attaching your coil.
Third, that 510 screw! If this screw is not tight your ohms can fluctuate dramatically! The current must flow through this screws threads to make a circuit. When I first got this RTA I seen resistances from 1.0 ohms to 4.9 ohms from one second to the next. Needless to say 4.9 ohms @ 12 watts was not fun! So lesson learned, a tight 510 connection screw = good! To fix this I got 3 tiny stainless steel washers and filed them to the diameter of the 510 screw head to prevent any shorts. I have never had an issue with resistances since.
When you build a coil right and get excellent wicking, you should ended up noticing a small amounts of e-juice getting on the top of your 510 connector. Since there is no true seal for the center pin (only the 2 isolators) and or the 510 screw, while you are vaping your coil will sputter and spit a tiny amount of e-juice down the air tube and eventually it should come out the 510. I had an old Kanger atomizer head collecting dust, so I removed the bottom pin and insulator (an o-ring of the right size may have worked). I cut off the big end of the Insulator and used that as an o-ring between two of the 510 screw washers that I had filed down. When I installed the 510 screw this way, it made an e-juice tight seal! I love having a dry 510!
My last gripe is the coil screws. The Russian came with these dome shaped screws with very little flat surface area, that made it a pain to get a good connection on your coil leads. There is nothing worse than those leads slipping out! Easy fix, I ordered some good Stainless steel socket cap screws with a flat bottom mating surface from albanycountyfasteners.com. Now I could twist and pull all day long and not have a lead slip out!
Thank you all for not smelling like BUTTS!
Keep vaping,
Tommy K
I decided to do a quick write up about some issues I have had with my Russian 91% and a the solutions I have came up with to fix them. At around $100 USD price point I would think and hope the R&D depts. at KeBo and or SvoёMesto would have caught these issues and addressed them before putting their products on the market. I can imagine anyone with a Kayfun Lite etc. would have the same problems and could benefit from this. on a side note, I normally run my Russian at 1.2 ohms single coil @ 12 watts on a Sigelei 20w mod. I vape 12mg, 50/50 e-juice on Japanese cotton.
The first issue that I would like to address is the fill hole tapered screw that can leak one day and be fine the next. I ended up taking a tiny triangle edged file and making a relief at the bottom of the head and beginning of the threads for one of the tiny o-rings supplied in the extras bag. I got the head to fit almost flush with the bottom of the base unit, and then filed the top of the head flush. Works like a charm and the top of my Sigelei 20w stays dry! (like it should!)
The second issue is the center post, not the 510 screw, we will get to that! The center post inherently is very difficult to properly torque. The post goes through 2 insulators and secures the positive mounting block to the deck. To accomplish this properly you must torque this post enough to overcome the torque applied to the positive mounting screw. Sounds simple, but that little screw acts like torque multiplier and will twist the positive block off center. If you torque the center post too much you risk squishing the top isolator which will force the positive block to tilt and extend the pin above the block (normally the pin sticks out .010" anyway, which I filed off flat to the block). The Russian 91% I bought had a fairly soft top insulator, after flattening it i ended up ordering a 5 pack from kidneypuncher.com. These seemed to be a little harder allowing a little more torque. With a tiny amount of loctite-242 (just enough to fill the threads) you are able to get the center pin, top insulator, and positive block just right and it will not move when you are attaching your coil.
Third, that 510 screw! If this screw is not tight your ohms can fluctuate dramatically! The current must flow through this screws threads to make a circuit. When I first got this RTA I seen resistances from 1.0 ohms to 4.9 ohms from one second to the next. Needless to say 4.9 ohms @ 12 watts was not fun! So lesson learned, a tight 510 connection screw = good! To fix this I got 3 tiny stainless steel washers and filed them to the diameter of the 510 screw head to prevent any shorts. I have never had an issue with resistances since.
When you build a coil right and get excellent wicking, you should ended up noticing a small amounts of e-juice getting on the top of your 510 connector. Since there is no true seal for the center pin (only the 2 isolators) and or the 510 screw, while you are vaping your coil will sputter and spit a tiny amount of e-juice down the air tube and eventually it should come out the 510. I had an old Kanger atomizer head collecting dust, so I removed the bottom pin and insulator (an o-ring of the right size may have worked). I cut off the big end of the Insulator and used that as an o-ring between two of the 510 screw washers that I had filed down. When I installed the 510 screw this way, it made an e-juice tight seal! I love having a dry 510!
My last gripe is the coil screws. The Russian came with these dome shaped screws with very little flat surface area, that made it a pain to get a good connection on your coil leads. There is nothing worse than those leads slipping out! Easy fix, I ordered some good Stainless steel socket cap screws with a flat bottom mating surface from albanycountyfasteners.com. Now I could twist and pull all day long and not have a lead slip out!
Thank you all for not smelling like BUTTS!
Keep vaping,
Tommy K
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